Living in the UK, I was never sold on oysters. How times change! With the world-renowned produce here on the southwest coast at Marennes-Oleron, which accounts for half of the oyster production in France, my opinion changed.
One summer, we were lucky enough to be invited to our friend’s coastal holiday home. Lunch was in their back garden with long wooden trestle tables and about thirty family members. Her Dad brought huge polystyrene boxes back from the local market, and her Mum opened them to reveal oysters, langoustines, and mussels. Offering me an oyster, I thought, “Why not?” I proceeded to throw it down my throat, much to her horror – “NON! Qu’est ce que tu fais? Croque, CROQUE!!!”
Now, in the UK, I had learnt to swallow your oysters whole, ‘down-the-hatch’ style. Apparently, according to my friend’s Mum (with whom I would never argue), this is absolutely wrong and you need to pop it in your mouth with your teeth to kill it (so it doesn’t attach anywhere you don’t want it to!!!) and to release the flavour.
Here, oysters are a staple at any family celebration and especially prominent at Christmas. There are four types of oyster found in Marennes-Oleron: fines de claire, speciale claire, fine de claire verte and the pousse en claire. If you want an extra-special oyster, buy either the claire verte or the pousse en claire, as these are certified with the prestigious Red Label. These are generally more plump and have a slightly stronger flavour.
Chapon de Noel and other birds
A chapon is very popular here at Christmas. It is a castrated cockerel and is a very juicy, good all-rounder. The main Christmas meal, which, incidentally, is eaten the night before here in France and called Le Réveillon de Noël, has many courses. The main course could be a turkey (dinde), a goose (oie) or other meat, often be ordered in advance from the local butcher’s. One of the best in our area is Maison Tiphonnet in Rouillac.
The bird may well be served with a gratin dauphinoise and green beans, but you will only find cranberry sauce in the English aisles of the supermarket at an extortionate price.