Published on July 12, 2023
Matteo Carassale
The French Riviera lives up to its reputation. Each summer, bon vivants revel in sun-soaked glamour at palatial hotels while tuxedoed waiters serve caviar and buckets of Champagne. From Saint-Tropez to Menton, you can immerse yourself in a modern-day Slim Aarons scene—a parade of designer fashion, spectacular architecture, refined cuisine, and superyachts dotted along the sparkling Mediterranean.
Unlike many regions that were battered over recent years, the French Riviera never lost any of its gloss, and today, its dining scene is more vibrant than ever with lively new restaurants and visionary chefs that are showing off the local bounty in a fresh new light. One such establishment is Ceto, Mauro Colagreco’s marine-focused degustation restaurant at the spectacular Maybourne Riviera. On the other side of the coast is Arnaud Donckele’s La Vague d’Or, where natural produce takes center stage. And although these are just two of the region’s 40 Michelin-starred restaurants, it’s not all white-tablecloth fine dining. Bohemian beach clubs are outshining the iconic Club 55, with recent additions including Maybourne La Plage, Jardin Tropezina, and La Réserve à la Plage. And then there are creative international eateries and buzzy hotspots from Nobu’s Matsuhisa to Louis Vuitton’s latest incarnation at the White 1921 Hotel.
The French Riviera has always boasted an impressive gastronomic culture, dating back to the early 20th Century when it enticed the likes of Matisse, Chanel, and Picasso. But visit today, and you’ll find a diverse and innovative mix alongside time-honored establishments. If you’re making the trip this season, here are the best dining experiences that are sure to enchant the most sophisticated palates.
Fouquet’s
Image Credit: Fouquet’s
Since 1946, Hotel Barriere Le Majestic has played host to celebrities and events surrounding the Cannes Film Festival, and its restaurant has served as an annual gathering place. Centering on Parisian brasserie-style cuisine, Fouquet’s offers an à la carte selection of crowd-pleasing classics (steaks, grilled swordfish, sole meuniere), along with a more formal three-course menu in the evenings. Guests opting for the latter can enjoy the artfully arranged dessert options, including the fig compote with caramel parfait and muscovado chantilly, best paired with Champagne from the extensive wine list (you’ll find all the classics like Bollinger, Perrier-Jouet, Krug, and Veuve Clicquot). It’s a long-established dining destination for good reason and remains the most elegant restaurant along the Croisette.
La Voile
“I enjoy playing with the authentic flavors of the South of France,” says Eric Canino, executive chef at the elegant La Voile restaurant, located high in the hills at La Reserve Ramatuelle, overlooking the Mediterranean. “It’s a land that is gifted with such diverse and abundant nature,” he adds. “My goal is to create a classic Provençal menu that offers a luxury experience through high-quality ingredients that are packed with flavor.” That menu involves dishes like langoustine and caviar, bluefin tuna, and beetroot with smoked herring and herbed sorbet. The celebration of local flavors have made La Voile a revered addition to the dining scene. Other draws include the showstopping ocean views and the sleek, ultra-modern decor, which is rare in the region.
Arnaud Donckele and Maxime Frédéric at Louis Vuitton
Image Credit: Louis Vuitton
Luxury fashion has extended into the culinary world (there’s Dior De Lices, Gucci Osteria, and Polo Bar, to name a few), and after Louis Vuitton launched its first standalone eatery helmed by Mory Sacko last year, the space has been turned over to Michelin-starred chef Arnaud Donckele and pastry chef, Maxime Frédéric—colleagues and friends from Cheval Blanc in Paris. Located within the White 1921 Hotel in the heart of Saint-Tropez, the al fresco restaurant is unsurprisingly elegant, with Louis Vuitton’s iconic motifs featured throughout and a streamlined menu that celebrates local and seasonal produce. Among the signature dishes are the shrimp tartare, the truffle-stuffed Italian zitone pasta, and the orange blossom brioche. It’s open for afternoon tea and dinner service, where reservations are required.
Carrara
Image Credit: Carrara
Since Airelles revamped the historic Château de la Messardière, it has become one of Saint-Tropez’s most coveted dining destinations, featuring three not-to-miss restaurants, each overseen by Marco Garfagnini. It has an outpost of Nobu’s Matsuhisa, the Provençal La Table de la Messardière, and Carrara, featuring reimagined Italian classics in a rosy al fresco setting. Garfagnini’s recommendations? “The roasted langoustines with Cremona mustard, the lemon, mint and ricotta ravioli, the fillet of sea bass with mussels and clams, and the classic Tiramisu.” Anyone with a penchant for fine dining and spectacular scenery would be advised to book a stay here before the season’s end. Another plus? Guests can be chauffeured to its beach club and its sister property, Pan Dei Palais, in a stately Rolls-Royce Cullinan.
Louroc Restaurant
Image Credit: Louroc Restaurant
There is no hotel quite as iconic as the 150-year-old Hotel du Cap, and as you might imagine, it features excellent restaurants, including Louroc, which opened in 2020. Michelin-star chef Sebastian Broda and pastry chef Lilian Bonnefoi work together masterfully to glorify cuisine spanning from the Mediterranean to Provence. Star dishes include the saddle of lamb, roasted with garrigue herbs, violin courgette, and savory herb tome de chevre, and the garlic roasted monkfish with edible flowers. Local artisans are engaged to source rare ingredients and each course is served on an artistic ceramic plate by celebrated Vallauris artist, Agnes Sandahl.
Le Cap
Dining under the moonlight at Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat is a bucket list experience indeed. Located on a peninsula between Nice and Monaco, the legendary hotel draws a mature and unpretentious crowd, where special occasions can be savored. executive chef, Yoric Tièche provides an experience that aims to “reflect the region’s identity.” That identity involves hyper-local seafood, meats, and vegetables, sourced right from the property’s idyllic gardens. “We even have fruit trees!” Tièche muses. If you’re seeking an elevated gastronomic experience, this is one to prioritize, and for something unique during the day, book in the Nomad Dining Experience – a gourmet picnic in the chef’s picturesque vegetable garden overlooking the Mediterranean. Also, at the hotel from August 3-6, chef Simone Zanoni will be offering signature dishes from Four Seasons George V Paris at the iconic Club Dauphin and Le Bar, in addition to a series of pasta making classes for guests.
Cucina Byblos
Image Credit: Adrien Daste/Cucina Byblos
Nowhere embodies the spirit of hedonistic Saint-Tropez quite like Hotel Byblos (home to the famed Les Caves du Roy), and its newest restaurant is the place to be for dinners that are low-key but high-end. Here guests can imbibe in a lively and colorful environment with elevated Italian classics from chef Nicola Canuti (whose menus are overseen by the legendary Alain Ducasse). If you’re in the mood for delicious pasta, Roman-style pizzas, and entrees with an international flair, this is an excellent choice. Likewise, if you’re planning a night out and don’t want anything that is overly gastronomic.
La Vague d’Or
Image Credit: La Vague d’Or
People have been booking tables at La Vague d’Or six months out and it’s easy to see why, with its romantic setting surrounded by manicured gardens and the Bay of Saint-Tropez. Here, renowned Michelin-starred chef, Arnaud Donckele, offers a vegetable-forward take on traditional French fine dining. “Being located in Saint-Tropez, with artisans and producers nearby, is an incredible creative stimulus,” he says. “The proximity allows us to work hand in hand. We move forward and create together.” Flavors are poetically concocted as Donckele experiments with parts of the dish that aren’t always seen (broths, vinaigrettes, creams, veloutés, juices). His bespoke kumquat and rosemary flower sabayon is guaranteed to delight the senses.
Ceto
Image Credit: Matteo Carassale
Towering above the Mediterranean with views of Italy to the left and Monaco to the right is Ceto – Mauro Colagreco’s ocean-focused degustation restaurant. It is brilliant not only by virtue of its position; prior to the pandemic, Colagreco topped the influential World’s 50 Best Restaurants List for Mirazur (located nearby in Menton), and Ceto was awarded its first Michelin star just six months after opening. While the focus at Mirazur is vegetable-forward, Ceto is all about showcasing the marine biodiversity from the waters below. Arrive before sunset and opt for the sommelier’s exceptional wine pairing, selected from 1,000 references.