A decade after he was last in Vietnam, French chef Christian Le Squer reconnects with the country by announcing his arrival at La Maison 1888.
Between Vietnam’s hearty clear phở broths, indulgent and colourful bánh mì and vibrantly refreshing gỏi cuốn, chances are that few of us would consider French fine dining when we’re visiting the country. But that’s about to change.
Last July, InterContinental Danang’s La Maison 1888 earned its first Michelin star, making it the only restaurant in central Vietnam to receive such recognition. And if that’s not enough to impress you, the hotel has just announced the biggest upgrade yet to the French restaurant: the recruitment of famed chef Christian Le Squer to lead its kitchen.
One of the world’s most celebrated French chefs, Le Squer is famed for what he calls his “haute couture” cuisine, which perfectly balances innovation with tradition and authenticity, combined with exceptional precision and a mastery of flavour profiles. His creations have enabled him to retain three Michelin stars for 22 consecutive years at both Pavillon Ledeyon and Le Cinq at the Four Seasons Hotel George V, Paris, as well as a 19/20 rating from Gault & Millau, achieving more than most can dream of. So why Danang? Why La Maison 1888?
“It’s been 10 years since I last came to Vietnam, but I loved it when I was here,” Le Squer explains to me in the restaurant’s intricately decorated bar. “The culture is rich, and there’s a kindness from the people that you don’t find elsewhere very often. In terms of food, there are also a lot of similarities with France. Because of the relationship and history shared by the two countries, many French people still live here, and eating is a large part of both our cultures. Vietnamese food is also very healthy, using a lot of fresh ingredients, which is similar to what I experienced in my childhood. French cuisine has great technicality, and I want to combine this expertise in techniques with the great produce we can find here locally.
“The hotel and its team is also a big part of why I decided to take accept this project,” he adds. “When I first came to InterContinental Danang, like you I tried all the restaurants in the resort, and I found that the standard is really high across all off them, and the staff are very professional. Everything is well done – even the lounge or the beach bar. I felt the team here can support my vision and execute to the level that I require – and, of course, it helps that this hotel isn’t afraid to spend money on sourcing the best ingredients.”
As if to announce his arrival in all its glory, the first menu he’s implementing will feature all his signature dishes, tried and tested at his three-Michelin-star restaurants. From the unapologetically French langoustine with warm mayonnaise and buckwheat pancake, and mousseline scallops with cauliflower cream and caviar, to the delightfully creative pistachio sorbet with citrus, Brittany blue lobster bisque and marinated tomato with dill broth, and the signature of all signatures – the standing spaghetti gratin with black truffle and artichokes – the new menu at La Maison 1888 is an album of Le Squer’s greatest hits.
“The idea is to start with a very strong, tried-and-tested menu to give a good first impression to the guests here. It also helps with training the chefs and the team here, because I can show them a clear vision of my personal style and bring a new level of technicality to them. Because everyone has different upbringings, culinary educations and palates, it’s not always easy for all of them to understand the flavours I’m trying to bring here, so I came here a week earlier and went through the menu dish-by-dish with them.
“I was actually very surprised by how good they are,” he adds. “They’re extremely professional and very hard-working. I noticed in particular that the women here are very good in the kitchen – and my impression is that Vietnamese women are a significant pillar of society. Everywhere I go, women here are very strong and hard-working, and it’s very impressive. I find that in some cases the people here work even better than in Paris, so for me and my team to come and teach them these new dishes and set a new direction for the restaurant has been very easy.”
But the food and training aren’t the only things Le Squer is bringing to La Maison 1888. With his arrival comes a new vision for the restaurant, which the chef hopes will revitalise the venue and give more diners a reason to visit.
“When I first saw La Maison 1888, I thought it was a little boring – you don’t run a restaurant with just 25 seats in such a big house,” he explains, gesturing at the large open spaces within the stunning colonial building. “After giving it some thought, my vision now is to break up the bar and create a Parisian-styled bistro to really create a sense of liveliness to the restaurant, with people coming in and out. It’ll serve casual, simple French food and draw more people, who might try the bistro’s food and then decide they also want to come for the full gastronomic experience for dinner at the fine-dining part of the restaurant.”
With these plans on the horizon, what would ultimate success look like for La Maison 1888? To my surprise, as decorated as Le Squer is, he makes no mention of awards or accolades, instead simply focusing on his one mission: to satisfy his guests.
“For me, success here is to create a certain atmosphere,” Le Squer remarks. “The team here knows how to cook, and they know how to serve good wine, but we’re lacking that atmosphere. If someone lives in Danang and wants to come and spend an evening at La Maison 1888, we want them to feel like they’re in Paris here. It’s simple but elegant, and that’s what I hope they can experience.”
This article was first publish on Prestige Hong Kong
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.