A new French restaurant with a longtime Houston chef at the helm is opening its doors at the Thompson Hotel this month.
Chardon will debut on Friday, Feb. 21, on the ground level of the Thompson with its own street door facing neighboring restaurant Toca Madera. It will be the hotel’s high-end restaurant offering; Sol 7 opened this time last year on the rooftop.
Chardon chef E.J. Miller has been running the Sol 7 kitchen since November. He attended the Culinary Institute Lenotre and previously worked for Clark Cooper Concepts, which includes French-leaning Brasserie 19. At Chardon, he will highlight traditional French cuisine with a nod to Texas flavors and ingredients by working with local ranchers and farmers he’s built relationships with over the years.
“This just meets the criteria of the guests that are staying (at the Thompson). This is the experience that they’ll expect from an in-hotel restaurant, in a hotel of this caliber,” Miller said. “It’s an elevated experience, but it’s one that is a craveable.”
Hors d’oeuvres include croque monsieur gougeres (cheese puffs), deviled eggs in four varieties and raw bar items. Other starters and small plates might be Hudson Valley foie gras torchon, Broken Arrow Ranch wild board pâte en route and caviar. Caramelized onion soup gratinée with oxtail bouillon and Texas wagyu steak tartare are a couple of other plates under the “Petit Plats” section of the menu. A unique offering will be a cheese cart service, spotlighting French cheeses; Miller is working with Dairy Maids to curate it.
Entrees? Poached Gulf flounder “veronique,” honey-glazed duck apicius and broiled whole lobster au poivre for two. Steak frites are offered in a variety of cuts, such as center-cut filet, R-C Ranch wagyu ribeye and 36 ounce cote de boeuf.
Classic French desserts get a modern approach with options like chartreuse crème brûlée with warm lavender madeleines, crunchy profiteroles with salted caramel ice cream and chocolate sauce, and macarons.
The beverage program features French wine prominently, and French spirits are used to create nearly a dozen cocktails such as the Emily in Texas, a blend of Saler’s Aperitif, wild elderberry, lemon, tonic and bubbles. Chardon will also have absinthe service.
The restaurant’s patio will debut in coming months, along with brunch.
TableOne Hospitality utilized AvroKo’s Miami Studio, which has only designed one other Houston restaurant, nearby steakhouse Andiron. Various textures, shapes, lighting and artwork create a lavish yet warm dining room that spans 3,800 square feet. It drew influence from three sources for the space: European NeoClassical and Art Deco architecture, the opulent age of early 20th century Texas and Houston’s rich cultural heritage.
The bar is a focal point of the restaurant with multiple curved mirrors glowing from the lights lined by walnut arches. Muted blue banquettes line the room and leather seats are sprinkled throughout. A private dining room is a showstopper with beautiful naturesque wallpaper in that same blue that curves into the ceiling with an intricate light fixture floating over a single long table.
“It’s going to stand out as one of the best restaurants in Houston,” said general manager Bruce Warren.
Chardon will open for dinner 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Reservations can already be at sevenrooms.com.