The Washington Post’s Tom Sietsema has been the newspaper’s food critic for 25 years. This past week he released his review of Germantown, MD’s Mamma Lena and praised its “bountiful portions of expertly made pastas and more.”
Located at 13507 Clopper Rd in Seneca Park Plaza, behind 7-Eleven and Sunoco, Mamma Lena is an unassuming Italian restaurant. Opened just under a decade ago, it now offers reservation-only dining alongside convenient delivery and carryout options.
Sietsema explains that the family relocated to Washington in 1994 when the patriarch, Carlo Varriale, secured a security role at the Italian Embassy. Meanwhile, matriarch Lena Borrello honed her culinary skills in Italy, working at restaurants including the seafood-themed Assunta Madre in Rome. Their son, Giovanni Varriale, became well acquainted with the DC area while attending Walt Whitman High School in Bethesda.
Mamma Lena offers a diverse menu of traditional Italian fare, centered around their “Spaghetteria” with a wide array of pasta dishes. You’ll find classics like Fettuccine Alfredo, Spaghetti Alla Bolognese, and Lasagna, alongside more unique options such as Spaghetti Aglio, Olio E Peperoncino (spicy garlic and oil), and Fettuccine Alla Pescatora with mussels, clams, and shrimp (pictured in the featured photo from a 2018 trip to the restaurant). Beyond pasta, their menu extends to a variety of gourmet pizzas, including Margherita, Meat Lover’s, and specialty white pizzas, as well as a selection of hot and cold subs, and appetizers like bruschetta and mozzarella sticks. They also cater to different preferences with vegetarian and gluten-free options available for some dishes.
Tom Sietsema’s full review in the Washington Post can be seen here.