French and French-inspired fare seems to be having a moment in Louisville.
Over the last year, Byrdie’s opened on the ground floor of Hotel Genevieve, La Pâtisserie Française began offering French pastries, and the bar Vetti team recently began welcoming customers to its French bistro concept, M. Peppers.
With all these new spots popping up, I decided to feature one of Louisville’s original French eateries: Brasserie Provence, in the Forum Shopping Center at 150 North Hurstbourne Pkwy.
Owners and husband-and-wife duo Guy Genoud and Stacy Duncan introduced me to executive chef Patrick Godsen, and we all chatted about the restaurant’s history, favorite customer dishes, and upcoming events and changes. Here’s what I learned.
Brasserie Provence was born from a longtime dream
Lamb Chops at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Kentucky.
Brasserie Provence opened nearly 12 years ago, but the idea had been forming in Genoud’s head long before then.
“This had been a dream of Guy’s since I met him 30-something years ago,” Duncan said. “He’d always wanted to have his own restaurant.”
Originally from Cannes, France, Genoud had years of hotel and restaurant experience under his belt before he set foot in Louisville.
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“We found this place — it had been empty for a while — and we decided it was time to do it,” Duncan said, adding that they began working on the property in April 2013. The duo officially opened the doors six months later.
The restaurant focuses on cuisine from Provence and Alsace-Lorraine, where Genoud’s family is from.
“A lot of the recipes are family recipes,” Duncan added.
Genoud explains that though the offerings change seasonally, certain entrees — particularly those that have become go-tos for restaurant regulars — are menu staples. It is these loyal guests that have kept Brasserie Provence going after all these years despite major challenges, especially during the pandemic.
“We have a great customer base, and they really stuck with us through the hard times,” Duncan said.
French favorites include escargots and raviolis à la niçoise
Ravioli at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Kentucky.
“The trout, the mussels, the steak frites, and the pork chop are the four entrées that are the most popular,” Genoud said.
When it comes to hors d’oeuvres, the escargots — oven-roasted Burgundy snails prepared with Pernod garlic walnut butter and served with a grilled baguette — are particularly well-liked. Guests also enjoy the raviolis, which are niçoise style, a culinary style from Nice that is known for its Mediterranean flavors as well as its influences from Provence and Italy.
Duncan adds that some of the popular picks are Provençal, while others are typical brasserie items that guests would expect to find at a French eatery.
The Escargots served at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Ky. on Nov. 20, 2019.
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“We use local farmers as much as we can, especially for greens and vegetables in the summer,” Genoud said, explaining that the cuisine of his homeland is vegetable-forward.
“And we try to avoid butter as much as we can,” he added with a chuckle, “but sometimes, a little butter makes things better.”
The bouillabaisse and cassoulet are insider picks
Mussels and frites at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Kentucky.
Though certain available offerings have come and gone over the years, there are two items that guests can still request — even though they’re no longer listed on the menu.
One is bouillabaisse, a traditional Provençal fish soup that originated in Marseille; and the other is cassoulet, a slow-cooked stew from the Languedoc region of southern France that is made with white beans and various meats.
“I do have some customers that love my bouillabaisse or my cassoulet,” Genoud said. “They (might) call me and say they’re coming on Friday, and can (they) get (it)?”
He adds that he’ll try to accommodate these special requests as much as possible, as long as he receives advanced notice.
The menu’s next seasonal switch is in the works
Tuna Niçoise Salad at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Kentucky.
Within the next couple of weeks, Genoud and his team will be replacing a few of the current offerings with fresh, seasonal selections.
One item making its way back into the Brasserie Provence menu is the grilled ahi tuna steak niçoise salad. A mix of mesclun, hard boiled egg, potato, tomato, haricots verts, cucumber, bell pepper, red onion, niçoise olives, and anchovy, the fresh summer pick is dressed with a Dijon vinaigrette.
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Also returning to the rotation is the grilled T-bone lamb chops, served with Pommery mustard demi and a le puy lentil salad.
“(That’s) a special French lentil that is very different from the American one,” Duncan added.
Daily specials mean surprise dishes
In addition to working on quarterly menu changes, Godsen whips up a new special every single day.
“(It provides) more opportunities for the chef … to do different dishes,” Genoud said. “Sometimes there is a little American touch, or a little Asian touch.”
Godsen’s one-of-a-kind creations for daily specials are not announced anywhere — guests get the chance to partake in each delicious little secret upon arrival. Some of his unique concoctions, however, are presented during special events, like at the restaurant’s annual rose wine dinner.
Most recently, he whipped up a few unique offerings for their Oregon Wine Dinner.
“I get to go heavy-handed on stuff and just have fun,” Godsen remarked. “I (made) original Oregon tater tots from scratch, because tater tots originated in Oregon.”
The Melange Plate at Brasserie Provence in Louisville, Kentucky.
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On a typical day, of course, Godsen is preparing French fare — and he encourages those who aren’t familiar with the cuisine to give it a go.
“I don’t want people to be scared off when they hear, ‘French cuisine,’” he said. “There’s the classical French cuisine, (but there’s also) burgers, pastas, steaks, and fish.”
Genoud added, “We didn’t change recipes, but the style (in which the dishes are presented) is more approachable. … If you like Italian food, you’re going to like French food.”
Know a restaurant that would make a great feature? Email writer Lennie Omalza at aloha@lennieomalza.com or Lifestyle Editor Kathryn Gregory at kgregory@gannett.com.
WHAT: This is a locally owned restaurant that serves Provençal cuisine in a southern atmosphere.
WHERE: 150 North Hurstbourne Pkwy
SERVICES: Indoor dining, outside seating, and catering; 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Monday through Friday; 5-9 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday
CONTACT: 502-883-3153, brasserieprovence.com
This article originally appeared on Louisville Courier Journal: Brasserie Provence French restaurant Louisville, Kentucky