The Bronx restaurant’s modern Italian fare, served on a side street tucked away from the hubbub of the borough’s Little Italy, is a welcome contrast to the red-sauced Italian American food common in the area. The wine list is sophisticated, too, backed up by a menu that trumpets dishes like with duck, seafood, or simply seasonal vegetables steamed “in cartoccio” (in a foil pouch), and a rabbit sauteed with potatoes. Roberto Paciullo, a native of Salerno, Italy, is behind Roberto’s, with not a meatball in sight.
