Is the concept of a cheese kulcha really so revolutionary when you consider the role that Sikhs have played in producing the very parmesan cheese we grate onto our pasta or use to coat chicken for chicken parmigiana? While monks near Italy’s Parma village began making this sharp cheese—which I love—in the Middle Ages, it is thanks to the Sikh community that Parmesan has flourished globally since the 80s.
Italian nobles first referred to the cheese from Parma as parmesan, meaning “of or from Parma,” in the 1530s. The French courts later shortened this to parmesan, often calling it fromage de Parme, which means “cheese of Parma.” In Italy, some producers called it parmigiano, while others preferred reggiano. This debate continued until 1954, when the cheese was officially named parmigiano reggiano.
“Indian Parmesan” has become a rage in the Indian market recently. While I love the home-grown brands making delicious and affordable cheese, I hate to break it to you, but what we’re being sold can’t technically be called parmesan. Under European Union regulations, parmesan must be made exclusively from milk produced and turned into cheese in a specific region of northern Italy. And this is where the Sikh community enters the story—pretty much our only real connection to authentic Parmesan.
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The Sikh connection in Italy
In the Po Valley of northern Italy, known for its plains, lies a small town called Novellara in the province of Reggio Emilia, not far from Parma. It is here that a large number of Sikhs settled during the 80s as part of the first major wave of immigration from India. But why Novellara? Not for the dolce vita, but because its terrain and climate were similar to Punjab—flat land, warm and humid weather, and agricultural traditions that felt familiar.
While some Sikh immigrants worked in factories and even joined the circus, many gravitated towards dairy farming. Their work ethic––deeply admired––and familiarity with cattle made them invaluable in the industry. They didn’t need to speak Italian to milk cows, clean barns, and tend to livestock—skills they had long mastered.
However, the Sikh community doesn’t make the cheese. Their hard work comes before and after the cheese-making process. They wake up at 4 AM to milk the cows, skim the curd, and, once the cheese is made, they handle its packing and storage. Italian cheese makers were impressed by their dedication, while Sikh workers appreciated the good wages, dignity of labour, and free housing. As more Italians moved to cities and pursued white-collar jobs, they increasingly left behind roles they deemed menial—jobs that the Sikh community willingly took on.
Novellara’s thriving Sikh community is a testament to the resilience and spirit of Sikhs. The town municipality recognised their contribution, becoming the first in Italy to build a gurdwara in 2000, allowing an industrial plot to be used for religious purposes. When earthquakes struck the region in 2012, it was the Sikhs who set up langar kitchens, cooking and delivering food twice a day to those affected. They have also donated vehicles for blood transport to the Red Cross, volunteered for Civil Protection, and integrated deeply into the local community.
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Challenges
Having said all of that, it wasn’t all smooth either. Many first-generation immigrants faced hostility from locals. To assimilate, some had to cut their hair and stop wearing turbans. In 2017, Italy’s Supreme Court ruled that Sikhs could not carry the kirpan, a dagger they consider sacred. Despite these hurdles, as of 2017, an estimated 220,000 Sikh immigrants were living in the Po Valley, working in the parmesan industry.
The cheese from Parma was first referred to as parmesano, meaning “of or from Parma,” by Italian nobles in the 1530s. (Photo: Freepik)
So, next time you grate that sharp, nutty parmigiano reggiano over your pasta or layer it onto your pizza for an extra kick, remember—the original parmesan wheel it came from was most likely packed and stored by a Sikh worker.
If you want to learn more about the Sikh community’s role in parmesan production, watch Sikh Formaggio, a documentary that introduces you to the Sikh families who have made the Po Valley their home, and cheese, their profession.
Next week, I’ve been asked to introduce students from one of the world’s top culinary schools to the intricacies of Bengali cuisine. I hope I’d be able to share what I learnt from these young adults about studying in a demanding culinary school.