Wander into a random restaurant in Montmartre, and chances are, you’re gearing up for a pricey bummer of a meal. The hilltop village swarms with tourists exploring its pretty cobbled streets or enjoying the views from the wedding cake of a basilica. And when they’ve taken their last selfie, they flood bistros unworthy of the name, serving soupe à l’oignon that’s more salt than soup.
But if you know where to look, you’ll find many gems hiding among the tourist traps. Walk just ten minutes from the top of the butte—either down the far side towards Lamarck-Caulaincourt or across the former red light district to the 9th—and you’ll discover top-notch bistros, creative prix fixes, and phenomenal wine bars with food to match. Even if you’ve got your heart set on dinner with a view of the artists on Place du Tertre, we’ve got you covered.