Philly has some of the oldest Italian restaurants in America, so we know more than most when it comes to paintings of the old country, white tablecloths stained with red sauce, and dining rooms that double as wine cellars. Old-school Italian spots are a classic setting for a candlelit Friday night, nudging nephews to settle down over meatballs, and everything in between. Not every place nails the perfect balance of familial warmth and huge portions of pasta, but many get close. Here’s a ranking of the 13 best.