Ernesto Torres, Sr. had an idea.
He imagined a restaurant that combined French cooking techniques with Mexican flavors and original, buttery sauces.
It was bold and borderline crazy. San Antonio had never seen anything like it.
“Most of his friends in the culinary world said it would never work,” said Ernesto Torres, Jr. “They told him to do one or the other. But my father always believed in exploring the two cultures. And my mom believed in him and told him to go for it.”
Almost 50 years later, Ernesto’s Gourmet Mexican Specialties stands as a San Antonio original. The restaurant combines two worlds (Mexico and France) and two words (gourmet and Mexican) with a dual concept (Mexican seafood) not often found in South Texas.
“What a great success it has been,” Torres Jr. said.
Success runs through three generations of the Torres family. In 1979, Torres Sr. opened his namesake restaurant on West Avenue with eight tables and paper plates. Two years later, he expanded the restaurant and relocated to its current site, a strip center on Jackson Keller Road.
The Seafood Special at Ernesto’s Mexican Specialties. Credit: Vincent Reyna for the San Antonio Report
Torres Jr. began working in his father’s kitchen at age 15. Today, his 26-year-old son, Ernesto Torres III, a bartender and waiter, is learning the business under him.
“I started him when he was about 16, bussing tables and doing the same things my father taught me,” Torres Jr. said. “He likes the restaurant business.”
On Father’s Day, Ernesto’s will close, as it always does on Sunday. The Torres family will gather at the home of Torres Jr. and his wife, Maria, to celebrate the life of Torres Sr., the family patriarch who died in 2021.
“We’re going to honor him,” said Torres Jr., the owner. “We take turns meeting at each other’s houses on Father’s Day. It’s my turn this year. We’ll do barbecue and brisket. We’ll make everything from scratch and everyone will clean their dishes.”
A Mexican-born chef and entrepreneur, Torres Sr. worked in his youth as a busboy for Hotel Ancira in Monterrey. He moved up to room-service waiter and found his way into the kitchen.
In 1960, he moved to the U.S. with his father, Ernesto Flores Torres, took a job at the St. Anthony Hotel and became the hotel’s youngest maître d’ at 21.
Torres Sr. soon moved into the kitchen, where he developed his culinary chops, and met his future wife, Graciela, at the hotel.
He later became director of gastronomy at Handy Andy, taught French cooking and began working at Chez Ardid, a since-closed landmark that served classical French cuisine.
Almost 20 years after moving to San Antonio, the chef turned entrepreneur and opened Ernesto’s Seafood Corner. After relocating to Jackson Keller, his children began helping by bussing tables and washing dishes.
Ernesto Torres III, Ernesto Torres Jr. and Esteban Torres pose with photo of their late parents. Credit: Vincent Reyna for the San Antonio Report
“I started working for my father when I was about 15-years-old,” said Torres Jr., the third of four siblings. “He taught me to love what I do and to do it well. He taught me how to cook with love.”
The sons, Ernesto Torres Jr. and Esteban, learned their father’s techniques, recipes and menu. They learned the ingredients of his nine famous sauces. Most importantly, they learned the art of customer service.
A visit to Ernesto’s is a big, warm hug. It begins with a friendly smile at the door and ends with the feel of a family get-together. In between is a colorful presentation of specials, memorable conversation, delectable food and lots of laughter.
The late patriarch used to greet each customer with a promise, “You will have a beautiful meal,” and then deliver. The oldest son, Torres Jr., turns every meal into an experience. Once customers are seated, he visits each table with comedic flair.
“Don’t worry about which sauce to choose,” he begins with a straight face before breaking into a mischievous smile. “I know what you like. I’ve inherited psychic powers. So leave it up to me.”
People return for the service, the entertainment and cuisine. Customer favorites are the steak San Antonio, the grilled red snapper fillet and the crabmeat and shrimp vera cruz.
“The most popular item by far is our famous steak San Antonio,” said Esteban Torres, the restaurant manager and youngest son. “This is prime beef tenderloin, extremely tender, with avocado butter sauce. It’s a masterpiece.”
Steak San Antonio at Ernesto’s Mexican Specialties on Jackson Keller Road. Credit: Vincent Reyna for the San Antonio Report
Esteban Torres began working for his father at 8.
“I started in the kitchen with small stuff, cleaning beans and vegetables, doing prep work,” he said. “That was once a week on a Friday or a Saturday. I’ve been here ever since.
“My father taught me and my brother everything about the business, inside out, from the front of the house to the back and side to side. From cleaning the restrooms to making food and drinks to setting the atmosphere. We take pride in that. If someone can’t go, I’m ready to cover that position.”
The third generation also stands ready. Ernesto Torres III is training in the kitchen, learning the techniques passed down from generation to generation.
“It feels amazing working beside my father and continuing my grandfather’s legacy,” Torres III said. “Being the third generation here is an honor. And to see how my grandfather is still talked about highly and the impact he has made on our customers is incredible.”
Sixteen members of the Torres family will gather today and remember Torres Sr. They’ll cook and eat and share stories. They’ll raise a glass of his favorite wine, Pouilly-Fuissé, and offer a toast to an entrepreneur who created a San Antonio original.