Des volcans aux lagons : Martinique, Mayotte, La Réunion – Trésors des Outre-mer 🌺
Amoureux de la France et du patrimoine, ses trésors n’auront plus de secrets pour vous 👉https://bit.ly/4dnI1h1
Entre océan Atlantique et mer des Caraïbes, la Martinique dévoile une terre façonnée par le feu, où la mémoire des Amérindiens renaît à travers les gestes de Julietta et Serge, gardiens du manioc. Dans les champs, Christian perpétue la coupe manuelle de la canne à sucre, premier pas vers un rhum d’exception, unique au monde par son Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.
À Mayotte, entre mangroves et barrières de corail, Zainabou chante pour le poulpe, tandis que Mouslim cultive la papaye avec passion. Le respect de la nature y est un combat de tous les jours, mené par des femmes et des hommes engagés, soucieux de transmettre un héritage fragile à une jeunesse curieuse de ses racines.
Plus à l’est, sur l’île de La Réunion, le curcuma et le coco racontent une autre histoire. Guibert, paysan courageux, fait rayonner l’or des racines, et Didier redonne ses lettres de noblesse au cocotier, arbre de vie et promesse d’un développement durable. Ateliers, marchés et rituels hindous se croisent dans une harmonie métissée où tradition rime avec transmission.
Épicerie Fine – Terroirs Gourmands (Saison7) :
E26 – Poulpe et papaye de Mayotte
E28 – Noix de coco et curcuma de La Réunion
E10 – Rhum et manioc du Sud
© Tout droits réservés – AMP
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#patrimoine #france #documentaire #Martinique #mayotte #Réunion #manioc #rhum #CanneASucre #distilleries #papaye #agriculturedurable #PêcheTraditionnelle #poulpe
#curcuma #noixdecoco #CuisineRéunionnaise #HéritageCulturel #TraditionsAncestrales #artisanatlocal #biodiversity #corail #produitslocaux
Not far from the Venezuelan coast,
7,000 kilometers southwest of the metropolis, the Atlantic Ocean
flirts with the Caribbean Sea in the Lesser Antilles archipelago. The island of Martinique is
somewhat the fruit of this union. The third largest territory in
the Lesser Antilles, after Trinidad and Guadeloupe,
this island of volcanic origin has been shaped over the centuries
by eruptions. This rich land is home to a complex culture, resulting from centuries of crossbreeding. By colonizing the Caribbean,
the Amerindians were the first occupants of what is
nicknamed the Flower Island. They brought with them
a little of their tradition. These still exist thanks
to the determination of certain enthusiasts. This is the case of Giulietta and her husband,
Serge, who are trying to preserve the cultivation of cassava. Later, the French
came to settle. They brought with them the
Charente methods of distilling cognac, which forever transformed the history
of traditional Martinique sugar cane cultivation
and gave birth to rum. Today, this great distillery
still smokes on the island to produce this exceptional rum. The only one in the world to hold, since 1996,
the famous AOP or Appellation d’origine contrôlée. To make this beverage,
it all begins with Christian and his cane cutters. This morning, I’m going to do my rounds. I’m going to
see the hand cane cutters and then I’m going to tour the various machine-cutting sites. Christian and the distillery
he works for continue the tradition of hand-cutting cane
for 20 percent of the plots planted. These are often located
on rough or narrow terrain, making it
impossible for machines to pass through. There, it is a
traditional manual cut. So as you can see
it cuts at the base. Then he removes the cane stem
and places it in a row. This is what we call a hunt. And on the other row,
he will leave the straw. So on two rows,
they put a chase. We have a pile of canes and on the other,
there are straws and leaves. It takes about a ton of cane
to produce 100 liters of rum. So they took the day
to cut what we see on the ground. They started this morning at 5:30, 6:00. So, for their day,
they will do approximately… There will be approximately 7 to 8 tons of earth. At the end of the day,
I would say around noon. If we can compare the machine cutter,
these three people will make between 60 and 70 tonnes/hectare. The
small cutters of yesteryear have now given way to motorized harvesters
to harvest the six different types of cane grown on the island. These are varieties that have been adapted,
I would say, to the climate here for many years. We follow a very particular terroir with
clay or loamy soils where they grow very well. We have a
much higher sugar content in the cane, which allows
the rum to have this aroma. This arduous manual cutting work
has many similarities with the traditional cassava harvest. It is also equipped with machetes
that Julietta and Serge are trying to revive the cultivation of this
almost forgotten tuber. Cassava can be classified into two main families: bitter cassava
and sweet cassava, known as cas manioc. I just got some cassava out of the ground
, it’s a root. It takes six
months to harvest. And if you harvest it after more than six
months, you can no longer eat it. We’re only going to make flour with it. So, it’s not hard, it’s good. Look at. Even the taste, you can eat it raw
or you can eat it raw. But otherwise, it’s a product
that deteriorates very, very quickly. After three days,
you can no longer consume. That is, you have to cut it,
wash it and freeze it. This work is very difficult
because everything is done manually. It’s the energy, the giving of one’s time
and one’s dynamism to be able to move forward and love what one does. It’s not always easy for a woman. Six years ago, Julietta started
growing cassava, continuing the family tradition
since her grandmother sold it at the markets. Serge has kept his main activity,
but frequently comes to give him a hand. Working with Serge, my partner,
it’s true that it’s not always easy all the time. So we’re not going to tell him. So, it’s not always easy,
but he’s a fighter. And so, when he starts
something, he has to finish it. Tell me, Serge, can we plant
right away or can we come by for a bit? We can reach the moon to replant. As it was like that in the past,
that’s how he did it, I respect a little for
some roots to replant at the moon to have a
much more fruitful harvest. My parents always did it this way. Well, I’m continuing on the same decline. It is because of the bad reputation
of bitter cassava that this starchy food has almost disappeared. Since its sugar is rich in cyanide,
this root requires a long treatment before it can be consumed as flour. Since sweet cassava does not have the same
toxicity, the Martinique Chamber of Agriculture , of which Franz is a member,
is working to revive this crop. The Chamber of Agriculture has redone
the work of information, plant selection,
different plans, and has made precisely from this
the promotion of the camanioc in order to relaunch this vegetable,
to give back its place, its true place, on the different tables of the people of Martinique. Leaving the fields,
we find Christian at the Distillerie de la Monie. He passes the baton to Henri,
who will take charge of the canes freshly cut by the 80
different planters. Once the canes are delivered,
they are first cut into smaller pieces. A passage through a battery of pressing mills then allows the cane to be finely ground to separate the juice
from the bagasse, a sawdust which will serve as fuel for the
distillery’s steam boilers. The harvested juice is stored in huge vats to which stools and yeast are added to
activate the fermentation process. This is where Virginie,
quality manager, comes in. I’m checking my mother tank, so I’m
going to do a microscopic examination. I’m going to take a little look at
how the yeast behaves. No, it’s okay, it seems okay. Yeast is a cell
and it will break down the sugars present in cane juice, natural sugars,
sucrose, glucose and fructose. It will break them down,
it will form alcohols, so the ethanol that we took,
but also higher alcohols. And at the same time,
the elements it uses in its biochemistry will also transform the
aromas of the cane and make them evolve. Our job
is really to preserve the nobility of the raw material and obtain
the quintessence in the end. Rum is a big part
of Marathonie’s identity, since originally
there were distilleries everywhere. Today we have seven distilleries
smoking, but back then, each district of Marafeunic
had its own distillery. So life was
often organized around distilleries. Once the juice is fermented, it
fills its distillation columns. It works like a huge still. Water vapor circulates
in the different chimneys and carries with it the different alcohols and aromas
obtained thanks to the work of the yeasts. Last step for Henri,
who can already predict the quality of this agricultural rum. And the people of Martinique are
proud of their white rum. An integral part of the
island’s cultural landscape, the entire population gathers to taste the local typonche. Hello gentlemen, It’s finally okay. How are you ?
Tell him, it’s okay. In Martinique, we drink white rum,
sugar, lemon and rum. Quite simply. Sometimes there are
hints of syrup, but generally it’s sugar, lemon and rum. And normally, normally,
they served us the little punch like that, but normally, they should bring
the bottle, the sugar and the lemon, and the person who consumes,
drinks their little punch, consumes their little punch on themselves. That’s exactly it. In the mornings, it was Indeed, white rum was once drunk in the morning with lemon,
honey and crushed wormwood leaves , according to a tradition
called decollage. Today,
consumption patterns have evolved. Rum is drunk in moderation and most
often, tipponche has become a convivial aperitif. The generational interest,
because they are both twice my age and I take the tipponche with them,
we chat, we don’t dig anything and that’s it. Is
it still like this? Like that ? It’s our tradition at home,
our little pockets. That’s how it is.
Wom is a magical tradition. We’re joking at the same time, that’s it. We do our job well enough. Plus, we’re not far from the sea,
right on the waterfront. Gentlemen.
Yes yes. Should I put this in a pile? A few kilometers near Ducouce, it is from her cassava hut that Julieta draws all her pride. A place she built from scratch
with her husband and where she now makes cassava flour. This former sales professional
was trained in one day by two former employees. With the help of Samuel, but also of her mother,
friends and neighbors, she is reviving this ancestral practice. Right now, I’m
scraping cassava. So I peel with the peeler. So I save time. Because at the time, we, the elders,
they used the knife and they scraped like Samuel,
he is doing it right now. Samuel, I’m finishing this cassava. We’re going to start washing. All right. He’s not going too fast. It can’t splash. Then, Samuel,
you’re going to wash the basin for me. You’ll bring it back for me. I need to be able to put
the cassava back clean. After scraping and washing,
the cassava goes to the mill to be transformed into flakes. The old people, the type of mill they
had, was hand-operated and they turned. It was a hand-cranked thing,
what we call a hand-cranked thing, and they were humming along. And so, it works the same way. The powder thus obtained is still
loaded with moss and cyanide. It must therefore be pressed to extract the whitish sugar. Ah, that’s better flour, it’s beautiful. In a hurry, huh? Sieving This use allows
the last of the sieving to be eliminated, which will be used as compost or fodder. I can already start lighting the fire. I’m doing the baking now, so this is the last part of processing the cassava flour. So you have to turn with the plane
for 2 to 3 hours. There, because I have a small amount
today, but normally, everything has to be born in almost 5
hours, without stopping. Once cooked and bagged, the
flour can be consumed within a year. Every week, Julietta meets with
consumers at the
Ducource Farmers’ Association market. This cassava flour
is flour that is handmade. You can make cakes, puddings,
cassava puddings, pies, cakes. It’s a
kind of replacement for cheese flour. Absolutely, madam. And it is a dietary supplement
that is very rich and gluten-free. So there you have a pot. A pot is twice a liter. These are the half pots
that were used at the time. So, we don’t weigh the cassava flour. Thank you so much. At a nearby stand,
Frantz has swapped his costume as assistant secretary of the chamber of agriculture
to sell the fruit of his coconut harvest. This type of market is a market that has
existed since the dawn of time, but which was at one point lost. And this small group of farmers who
are here, decided to hand it over through an association. This type of agriculture, which is
in total diversification, means that the customer who arrives leaves with their basket. His full basket for the week. We have a great market with a lot of… That’s what customers are
looking for too. Yes, it is a great
satisfaction for me. So, above all, as I would say,
to promote my products. At the Lamonie Distillery, Daniel works in the privacy of his cellar. It is in the middle of this hive of barrels
and casks that he watches over his different vintages and helps the rum reach its perfect maturation. Here,
I am tasting the batch from lodge B14, which was put into aging
on July 29, 2014. And here, I am going to look at
what the barrels have brought to the alcohol. There, we have spices,
we have a compote side to the nose. It tolerates this type of barrel well,
so we’ll leave it for another year to reach three years and we’ll see
what happens, but it’s off to a good start for now. In the rum category,
you have three types of rums. You have white rum,
which we will find in bottles. Then you have the rums aged in
wood which will stay for 12 months in wooden barrels,
like the ones behind me. Then you have the old rums
which must necessarily age in barrels with a capacity of
less than 650 liters. And the profile will be done at the end
of the third year to really define what direction we are giving it. Do we let it continue to
age in the same type of barrels? Do we change the barrels? Are we going to leave it for another year
or three more years to have the six years to be
vintage, for example? Like a true jeweler, Daniel delights the taste buds
of his colleagues and clients by combining gold from different barrels. There you go, I just made
a little assembly. It’s just about seeing how a blend
of two types of barrels, a 400-litre barrel and a 170-
litre barrel, can work together. Undressed and they are
both the same age. All right. I’m going to treat myself. Very pretty, very beautiful. So, I wanted to enhance this little
woody side that you took very gently and give it a little power.
Strength, yes. It looks promising.
400 liters. These are rums, of course,
intended to age further. So.
Quite a few years. It is true that there has been a
fairly recent development in the way rum is consumed. I would say that
people have always enjoyed drinking rum
in cocktails, even since Prohibition, and we made some well-balanced shots. Americans went
to Cuba to drink rum. More recently,
up until 5, 6 years ago, where I would say there is an acceleration,
there is a real craze. It seems like people are just discovering rum,
but rum has been around forever. This is also a
general market trend. This is called premiumization. People are drinking less alcohol,
but they want to drink better. It is a recognition. We represent, what, 3% of the volume
of rum sold throughout the world. And there you have it, everyone
is talking about Martinique rums. Everyone wants to be
like Martinique rums. I think that
boosted it a little bit too. And there too, it’s us. How are you, Mirette? Yes, I’m fine. So, I present to you the first step
of cassava flour to make cassava flour processing.
And so, that’s the scraping. Back at Casa Manioc,
we discover another of Julieta’s activities. She regularly receives groups
and explains to them the different stages of cassava processing. This transmission helps keep alive
the gestures and traditions that have gradually emerged from the daily lives of Martinicans. You can take a closer look. And so what’s inside,
what we see, the liquid that comes out, is what we call foaming. This is called monsage.
This is called monsage. And at the time, it was used
to starch clothing. Now we’re going to do some pressing. Why do we always use the half pot? The half-pot is always
to keep the tradition of yesteryear. We must keep everything we
did the old way. I find that people
are very interested because I think they don’t know
all the values of our culture in Martinique regarding
cassava flour. These are things that get lost. It makes me happy to see what
our grandparents did before. We believe that she is there to
bring up to date the things that were done at the time. I don’t eat cassava flour
very often, it’s true, unfortunately, but yes, I do eat it because, well, my
grandparents used a lot of it. So, it was passed on to my
parents and I also plan to use it because even for the
Miss Martinique training, we were able to do an introduction to cooking. We used cassava flour
instead of wheat flour to be able to highlight
everything that is part of our culture. Today I could say that I
know a few steps of cassava. I know how to use it,
what you can’t do, what you should do, and I
could pass it on to others. I am very happy with the young people’s speech
because we see that they are very interested in our
culture, our tradition, and especially cassava flour,
because they didn’t know much about it, I would say. And that allows them to see that we
have wealth in Martinique. Julietta often ends her visits
with a tasting of products made with her cassava flour,
including the famous Akra. I really like what I do. It is a passion to transmit,
to see our culture, the tradition that we have had for a long time,
our ancestors, our elders. And that’s a source of pride. I love what I do. You have to give love to everything you
do in order to be able to pass it on afterwards. With all these guardians of memory
and know-how, we are leaving a Martinique terroir
in very good hands. It is certain that these gestures,
perfected over time, will be passed down from elders
to future generations, as has always been the case,
thus helping to preserve the diversity of French specialties. Located in the ocean at the northern entrance to
the Mozambique Channel, the island of Mayotte lies between the
African continent and the island of Madagascar. With an area of 374 km²,
this former colony has been the 101st French department since 2011. The population, estimated at 200,000, is mostly young
and Muslim. Although the Mahorais still speak
French widely, the main language is Shi Mahoré. 8 million years old,
Mayotte is made up of two main islands called Grandes
Terres and Petites Terres. It displays ancient traces
of volcanism as well as numerous eroded massifs. The very indented coasts
form capes of peninsulas and deep bays bordered by mangroves. To the east, its
180-kilometer double barrier reef makes it an exceptional observation area and an immense
natural aquarium that has some of the most
incredible and rare species in the world. This corner of paradise,
also called Lagoon Island, is a place where
ancestral traditions are still very present. Its administrative capital is located
in Tzaoudzi, but economic activity is concentrated around Mammuzzu, one
of the most urbanized areas of the island. At one of Mayotte’s markets,
Mouslim Payet sells the fruit he grows and processes
in his business. Among them, papaya. This fruit has flesh ranging from yellow
to bright red, with a sweet taste and diuretic properties. In the north of the island,
on the beach of Mtsahara, Zainabou Faki fishes for octopus in the
purest Mahoran tradition. This cephalopod,
known for its intelligence and memory, is highly valued in various
dishes, emblematic of Mayotte. This morning, on the beach,
in the company of other Maorese women, Zainabou comes to hunt octopus. The fishing begins with a song
in Chi-Maorais, a typical tradition of Mayotte. This is the traditional song. Before, there, great-grandfathers
and grandmothers, when they went fishing, they sang this
song first before leaving. In Mayot we say: Mi la main in French. They say: When we go out, we sing. When you enter, you say: Hello. That’s how it is, yes. This fishing, once practiced by his
ancestors, is done using a stick to dislodge the octopus. A manual method that is safe
for the habitat of this animal, which can weigh up to 10 kilos. As a hiding place,
this builder makes a den of stones that Zainabou
can easily spot. Look there, I think there is one. There are some there because here, nearby,
he has decorated his house and I look to see if he is there or not. Yes, he is there, I see him. He is here. From the same family as octopuses,
cuttlefish and squid, the octopus has nearly 200 suckers on its eight tentacles. They serve both to paralyze
his victims and to sense his enemy. This cephalopod likes crabs,
lobsters and shellfish. It is a renowned hunter who possesses
the ability to change color to deceive its prey and predators. We take that away. We don’t eat it.
Maybe it’s here. There are his eyes, both eyes. One is here and the other is here. You see?
She’s a coconut, she’s a girl. Fishing, closed for several months a year
to allow this animal to reproduce, is still practiced
excessively and sometimes brutally, breaking corals and damaging
the octopus’s habitat, causing it to gradually disappear. When I saw that someone was
breaking the coral, I told him, I told him not to fish because we didn’t
want anyone to break the coral. When you break the coral, there
are octopuses that can’t have homes. I explain it like this and if he didn’t
hear correctly, I make a report, I send it to By
fighting for the conservation of traditions and local wildlife,
Zahin Abou is part of the line of actors who perpetuate what
generations have once respected. This is also the case for Mouslim,
who has been working on this farm since he was very young. In 2002, he stopped his role as mayor
to concentrate exclusively on arboriculture and in 2008 created his
company, Les Vergés de Mayotte. He cultivates various exotic
and typical fruits of Mayotte, including papaya. There are several types of this
tasty berry, more or less large depending on the variety. The largest ones, intended mainly
for processing, have firm, yellow flesh and can weigh up to 2.5 kg. The smaller ones, called solo papaya,
have red flesh and are more suitable for consumption. The difference, because well,
the small ones, it’s very sweet, it’s the variety of papaya that we
find in mainland France, on the shelves. I’ve never seen the big
papayas there, on the shelves in France. This fruit from Mexico is rich
in fiber, vitamin C and is low in calories. Papaya seeds are sown
during the rainy season, between October and December,
and harvested from September. This year’s papaya harvest,
not all the fruit was good. For what ? Because there has been
a climate disturbance. It started raining here in
February. This is causing climate change in Mozambique,
we were told. It disrupted production. The papaya tree grows between 3 and 7 meters tall
and produces fruit in its first year, making it an
easy tree to grow. The main difficulty in growing
papaya is a lemur that is fond of its fruit, the maki. Also called komba in Chimahore,
this protected species comes from Madagascar and was imported by man
to the Comoros Islands a long time ago. I planted papayas,
but I put pineapples. This way, it prevents
the maquis from getting closer. When it goes down, it will encounter
the thorns there, that prevents them from climbing up the papayas. So this is how
I protected my papayas. Mousslim, president of the
Mayotte Chamber of Agriculture, insists on cultivating in an
environmentally friendly manner and therefore only uses natural
and organic ingredients for his fruit trees. The leaves that I put under
the papayas rot and then become fertilizer. It plays the role of fertilizer.
You see? All the papayas, there, you see? All papayas have
straw like this at the base. It creates humidity and
then it rots, it creates organic matter. In addition to mulching, he uses
coconut husks to nourish his soil. An inexpensive technique and,
according to him, very effective. For the respect of nature,
Zain Abou also participates with his association, Djarifa de Mtsahara. They are implementing various means
to preserve the beach that they have known since childhood and that their ancestors
have walked along for generations. There, we collect the waste because when
the sea is high, they collect all that and bring it downstairs. This is not good for corals. In addition to cleaning the beach,
Zahin Abou and his association sometimes carry out awareness-raising operations. Today, she explains to students
at Mtsahara Elementary School the importance of respecting
the environment. We shouldn’t throw away cans, irons, we shouldn’t throw them away. When we throw them, the rain, when
they fall, we bring them all to the sea. And there is language that breaks them. Do
you understand? Now it’s us, but tomorrow
it’s them who will go fishing. And there he begins to understand. Because sometimes, before,
children used to fish by the sea here, for small fish. And now they don’t fish them,
they let them grow. Thanks to these local operations,
Zainabou hopes to be able to count on the younger generation to preserve
the island’s biodiversity. This is also one of the battles
of Yannick Stéphan, who organizes exclusive
boat excursions to discover numerous species of maillots. I’m going to spend five minutes here
to explain to you a little bit about how Mayotte was formed and all that. And there you have it, that’s one of the
reserve buoys in the eastern square that we just passed. So here we are
getting into it. Do you see the coral,
the green part on each side? This is the beginning. We are in the middle of the barrier. Protected by coral reefs that
reform several times a year, Mayotte boasts one
of the largest lagoons in the world in its center. More than 760 species live
within this marine natural park. A fauna of exceptional diversity. We have all possible habitats
for all species. In the south, the barrier is well closed,
up to the boat pass there. All of that is closed. Which means we have
quite exceptional biodiversity. You can come across all the species
that can live in this area of the Indian Ocean. We have about 1,000 Lombais dolphins
which have long beaks, about 500 to throw away. We have a group of 400 peponocephali. Other underwater species
in Mayotte include turtles, manta rays,
and humpback whales that come offshore from July to October. A perfect day to observe all the treasures that the lagoon island has to offer. The excursion organized by Yannick also includes a tasting of typical Mayotte products on a secluded beach. So, this is a little
sailfish tartare. Unlike neighboring islands
like Reunion or Mauritius, Mayotte has very few tourists. Hotel facilities are still
few and far between, and direct flights from mainland France have only existed since 2016. I didn’t know about Mayotte. I don’t mean to say I’ve
never heard of it. Yes, I heard about it,
but it wasn’t for me. Not an island to discover. There was more publicity on others
whereas Mayotte, it is a very beautiful French heritage,
even if it is only a department, it is far away, but frankly,
it is very, very beautiful. The island’s underwater wealth contributes
greatly to the enchantment of those who come to it. But since he has been sailing these waters,
Yannick has noticed the increasing disappearance of certain species. All small coral species
are disappearing. When I arrived, the octopus
was collected in 25-kilo bags that arrived full. Now people are going to spend the
day without necessarily fishing for an octopus. Poison is also widely used on this part of the island
. A plant, lourouva,
a tropical plant, when you crush it, put it in water holes,
it kills everything that is animal. It kills octopuses
, corals and sponges. If we start from this principle,
we will kill everything. Mayotte today has nearly 40
animal species in decline, and almost 50% of its flora is threatened. To safeguard this
traditional Mahoran flora, Mr. Bastia takes care of the
botanical garden which brings together typical plants. This is the case of the bilimbi,
where uraju, in Chimaorais, a tree still present in many
gardens, is still used culinaryly. This is a fruit that is widely
used in Moroccan cuisine, and it is used in romazab. Romazab is a simple sauce. Not too many tomatoes,
not too much oil, it’s very good. Its composition is like bonsai. Once pruned,
it takes the form of a bonsai with fruits and flowers all around. I like to
keep them at home or here. I love this, the bilanbi. Among the 60 plant varieties in the
Coconie botanical garden are vanilla,
breadfruit, and the classic hilang hilang from the town of Maliote,
used in perfume and which once represented almost all
of Mayotte’s commercial exports. On the island, there are more than 1,300
species of plants, half of which are endemic to Mayotte. However, it now only occupies 5%
of the territory, the rest coming from exotic species imported by man. There, we are considering planting a lot of Mayotte plants, just to keep them here, to protect them here,
so that it is not one of the harvests, harvests, harvests. It’s an experience
that people can come and see the children, the
school group, the associations. They can come here to really see. This is our wealth of Mayottes. Like any territory,
Mayotte requires adaptation. While papaya is an integral part
of the island, its harvesting technique is not at all dangerous. Muslim takes risks every day
when he climbs the ladder, which requires him to be constantly accompanied. It moves a lot. It moves a lot. I can break my face too.
You see? There, that. That moves well. We take the risk, we
have to pick it up too. We must not
drop the papaya. Because when a good papaya falls,
the part that touched the ground is damaged.
It’s damaged because it’s rotting. So. Oh my!
There it is, it has fallen. For Moussa, slim, the difficulty
of harvesting is less compared to the problems he encounters
getting back and forth here. The condition of the roads makes travel
difficult, especially during the rainy season. This part is very complicated here.
For what ? Because it makes a kind of bowl. It pours there, here, it pours there. And there it piles up. It makes mud. Do you see the tracks? I avoided… I avoid that hole.
For what ? Because in this rainy weather,
if the wheels fall in, there’s nothing to do. I have to call people, about twenty
people, to push me. To avoid the 4×4 plunging into the area
or turning over, Mouslim prefers to walk the rest of the way. But this requires him to carry his
harvest to his vehicle. A laborious operation when
the fruits weigh 2 kilos each. Usually, Muslim tries to fill
the holes with stones or earth. But for this year,
he is considering a more radical solution. From the city. The solution is to
put concrete down. That’s right, it will listen to me. Cement, all that, but it’s worth it. Instead of carrying the products
to the bottom, to vomit, I put the package there to do it again properly. Today, the territory of Mayotte is
seriously lacking in infrastructure. On the island, most farmers do
not live on their farms since they are not equipped
with drinking water or electricity. They are then forced to rent
premises to process their products when they are not victims
of thefts which can cause them to lose half of their harvest. Mouslim, as president
of the Chamber of Agriculture, and despite the wishes of farmers,
finds this obstacle to development deplorable. We don’t have drinking water,
we don’t have electricity. You’re going to get into it
like this, with nothing to live on. This is not possible. I often say, it’s true, that
we have difficulty encouraging young people, our children, to settle down
because the difficulties I encounter, I will pass on to my children. But it’s true, it’s in our
interest that the children come, but with the means
to work. In the meantime, we must continue
with the means at hand. With a few stones on the back
of the vehicle to give it weight, Mouslim sets off to explore
the steep paths of Mayotte. Later, after fishing, Zain Abou and the other women cook the octopus. We cook together all the time
, we eat together. Even if it’s not octopus, but shellfish or fish, we prepare it together and eat it together. When we talk together,
we give each other ideas. Octopus cannot be officially
sold in Mayotte. Its fishing is now protected
and reserved for private use. Here it cooks in water for 15
minutes, then the other ingredients are added. We only put onion, spices, salt and lemon. We prepared it traditionally,
like before there. The mixture of ingredients that
Einabu and the other women used for cooking is called maçalé. There are ready-made
powdered mixes available, but here she only cooks with
fresh produce. I’ll check if there’s salt and lemon. And the maçalé, here, are all complete. There, I look, I will
know directly if it is… It’s good. The women leave the beach
to prepare to eat. Men can also join in
, but today they’re at sea. In a moment of conviviality,
they’ll eat three octopus-based dishes with coconut,
turmeric, and lemon. They will be accompanied by rice,
banana and cassava. This is… This is… In Maorim we say, tzolula. This is banana and
cassava that we mixed together. In this traditional meal, there
are some rules in how to combine dishes
and side dishes. Lemon octopus is
eaten with rice and coconut octopus is eaten with rice. Octopus in sauces
is eaten with bananas. And if we eat it with coconut,
we don’t add chili. If we eat it, the chicken,
for a sauce, we add chili. Or if it’s like that, we add some spice. Mouslim, for his part,
sells his fruits, jams and juices
in a shop in Tsuut’u deux. However, he likes to work at
market stalls like the one at the Cocony agricultural high school every first
Saturday of the month. 3.60 euros. Every month, Saturday, every month,
on the first of the month, Saturday, I come here to get
fresh fruit and all that, and then, to go for a walk at the same time.
Nice spot, huh? It will bring people together,
get out of the ordinary a little, all that. It’s interesting for the Bolline, to
animate it a little. This market, known even in mainland France,
welcomes many foreigners, even if more and more locals are frequenting it. Come on, enjoy it, madam,
because elsewhere, you don’t say it. Come on, enjoy yourself. What we really appreciate
is that they are producers, people from here,
because we are looking for authenticity. This is why we come to Mayotte. We are fleeing large urban developments and
large localities. And we are discovering this market
for the first time. And I confess that we
bought a basket and it is already full. Mouslim is now accompanied by his
son and he is proud to be able to pass on his passion to him. A way to perpetuate
the know-how of the family business. My children are interested in
the activity I do. So I’m very happy
because there will be a sequel. You know, there,
he tries to do like me, he interests the customers, he does the tasting.
People like that. He sold quite a bit of fruit paste.
For what ? Because he’s trying to do the same
thing I’m trying to do, get customers interested. This is an important point. I’m counting on my children
to continue this activity. Whether natural or cultural, Mouslim and Zainabou try to preserve their heritage. Certainly, the path to modernizing
agricultural techniques and anchoring environmental preservation
as a vital issue is still long. But the commitment of the Mahorais
certainly constitutes the best hope for this 8 million year old French territory . 10,000 kilometers from France, bordered by the Indian Ocean, lies a land known as
the Intense Island, Reunion. Volcanoes and powerful winds have
rocked it with flows of lava and salt water which have forged a surprising character
where nature is both tumultuous and warm. These 2,512 square meters of territory are home to an authentic culture which is expressed in particular through
its culinary riches. In the Plaine des Grègues,
a small village located at an altitude of 800 meters , Guibert-Ohareau cultivates
and processes kurkuma. In powder form,
it is an essential ingredient in Réunion cuisine, particularly in
one of its emblematic dishes, curry. The exoticism of the island also evokes what
fascinates Didier Solès, the coconut. But in Reunion, coconut
is not really consumed. It is rather used for
Hindu ceremonies widely practiced on the island. Didier decided to bring it back to life. It all begins in Saint-Leu
in this coconut grove. Didier joins David,
the owner of the place. Equipped with a seat belt
and pruning claws, the latter prepares to look for the fruit. Didier is to bring 200 of them back to the Maison
du Coco, which he created 10 years ago, with the aim of giving them
a prominent place on the island. It’s about 15 meters away. He tells me that he has some that are 30 meters long. So there, it’s a little more
complicated with the wind and all that. But for him, it’s fine.
15 meters is fine. Up there, David picks fresh coconuts
directly from the tree using a saw. When they reach maturity after
12 months, they can fall to the ground without being damaged.
We don’t take it? No, it’s okay, we can go down. To produce fruits that can
reach up to 30 cm in diameter, the coconut tree needs a humid climate. The meeting lends itself well to this,
but contrary to popular belief, the coconut did not arrive there naturally. Coconut can float
for nine months. There it will float and when it lands,
the pregnancy is over, so it will pump the soil from the island
on which it will land. Reunion Island was landed by a Dutch admiral
in 1650. Because here, every time the coconut
arrives on our island, it is thrown out to sea. So we don’t have a beach, we
only have big waves, etc. So the coconut, when it arrives, it leaves. So unfortunately, Seychelles,
Madagascar, Mayotte, all the islands around us, it happened like that.
So, except us. Unfortunately,
we are not a coconut island. So, if it’s not man who plants,
we won’t have coconuts. If Titi wants to try now. The coconut is surrounded by a thick
fibrous covering called the husk. Removing it requires a
specific technique and know-how that David knows well. It envelops the shell which contains
the almond and coconut water which are very rich in potassium. A luxury on Reunion Island. On the island, we have the
most expensive coconuts in the world. We have coconuts between 3 and 6 euros each. So, you have to go and
search the operator’s premises. And so, when I get my hands
on a small coconut farm, I try to stock up as much as possible from
that property. Didier must have found the right partner,
because David is aware of the value of the coconut, called the tree of life in Polynesia. To provide a healthy environment,
he refuses to use pesticides, even at the end of this southern winter
which has just hatched all the mosquito eggs. Coconut is great because its fruit
provides us with water, providing us with healthy food
that has not been affected by pollutants. He also brings us
with him what is shelter. The Polynesians
discovered this perhaps 2,000 or 3,000 years ago. And we are discovering it in the 21st century. So there you go,
it might take a little longer to get into people’s minds. About fifty kilometers away,
Guibert, in Haro, is preparing to harvest turmeric, which was
introduced to the island in the 19th century. This strong-tasting root grows
in clods for two years in rich, moist, granular soil. If
Guibert sings to go to work, it’s because the setting is worth it, at the
Plaine des Grègues, the capital of turmeric. We are in fact the Plaine des Grègues,
which is reminiscent of the Cirque de Cilaos and Saint-Lazier. We are in fact in a mini-circus,
surrounded by ramparts, in a warm welcome.
It’s a place I really like. I was born there and I love nature. Turmeric is also
called saffron pei here. What gives it this very particular orange color
is curcumin, a pigment often used as a coloring,
but also very well known for its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Well, that’s turmeric, of course. This is orizumer,
richer in curcumin. These fish are called mother turmeric. And that one is the fingers
that we put in the dishes, in all the spidery dishes,
in all the cavities, in fact. Well, turmeric, fine degree,
is it better why? Because we don’t remove
anything from turmeric. We keep everything around,
it’s actually coming. We don’t remove the curcumin,
we don’t remove anything. While those from India, they remove
the curcumin, there is nothing left in it. That’s why there’s more taste,
there’s more aroma, it colors the dishes more, nothing. After removing the rhizomes from the ground
in July, Guibert lets them dry, hoping that the sun will
shine to simplify the next step. There I am
shaking the turmeric, removing the soil with the rhizomes, in fact. It has to be very dry,
there is a lot of sun. Then, the smaller ones like that,
we put aside for replanting. We put two small rhizomes in the soil
and after two years, we have a bunch of turmeric. In these three and a half hectare fields,
Guibert harvests 3 to 4 tonnes of turmeric per year. He inherited his expertise from his father,
whose business he took over 20 years ago. I was born into it, I loved it,
I loved the job. I didn’t learn at school,
so I took over my father’s job. And I don’t regret it, so far. But it takes courage, though. Lots and lots of courage,
lots of work. But actually, it pays off. Hard work pays off. When the weather permits, Guibert can
leave with 15 to 20 crates of turmeric. But the work is far from over. Other steps await him
on the farm. The same goes
for Didier’s coconuts. It is here, at the Maison du Coco,
that they will be transformed. Everything is used,
starting with the almond. To access it, nothing
can be done by hand. The stuffing must be removed by impaling it
on a stake, a few machete blows on the hull and that’s it. The almond is grated by this machine that
Didier is the only one to own on the island. And it is by pressing this grated coconut
that we finally obtain the milk. We will mainly use coconut milk
for the little coconut punch. They say it’s the drink
of our ladies here. A little bit of coconut milk, a little
bit of rum, a little bit of sugar. And the ladies love it. And then, we can also use it,
so the grated coconut here to make coconut rocks or coconut candies,
which is the most popular treat in Lille, practically. So we’re going to go straight to see
Mirose, the coconut candy champion. These sweets,
very popular in Reunion markets, are made
here with fresh produce. A kilo of freshly grated coconut
mixed with a kilo of sugar, this traditional recipe is nothing new. I saw when my grandmother did it. Then she left it to dry on the roof
because they say it’s the sun that dries the coconut candy. But as I do in practice here,
so I noticed that it is not even just the sun that dries the
coconut, but a coconut candy that is successful. Normally, it’s within seconds,
we want to taste the coconut candy. The use of the fruit does not stop there. Didier is today the only producer
of virgin coconut oil in the Indian Ocean. Despite strong demand, supply remains
small and prices are still too high. For one liter of virgin oil, Didier
needs about twenty coconuts. Its manufacturing method
is Australian. Its special feature is its speed. This is the fastest method in the world
for making coconut oil, meaning you grate, dry and
press it in less than an hour. You have an oil that is extra virgin. So that’s what makes
this oil a little bit so good. That is to say, it is done very quickly. So between the time we break the coconut,
we dry and press and we put a jar right away. Between 40 and 60 degrees, the 50 percent
water contained in the coconut evaporates. Didier then sets to work
to press it and recover the 43% of oil which can be used
in cooking or in cosmetics for its moisturizing and antioxidant properties. When the oil cools,
it turns into butter. And with the rest of the grated coconut,
Didier can make flour. Complete, coconut can be used
in all its forms. And that’s not the only advantage. We can say that the coconut
is virgin and quite healthy. So, it was used intravenously
between 39 and 45 by the American military in the Philippines, for example. Because the water found
in coconut comes from the roots. There is such a filtration through the trunk,
which is called the stip, which is composed of fibers. And there is such filtration that the water
found at the top is sterile. Six years ago, Didier created an
educational farm at the Maison du Coco. While
tourists come to discover the fruit through workshops,
coconut has also become food for animals, like Lola, who only eats it. Come on, have a bite to eat. Come on, is it okay, nanny? Come on, eat a little bit. Didier is certain of it. The multiple uses of the fruit can
offer Reunion Island a bright future
and sustainable development. The trunk of the coconut tree can
be transformed into wood. It can be worked in cabinetmaking,
so the leaves can be woven. Coconut husk,
so for all the fiber, can be used for septic tanks. It can be used as
sound insulation, thermal insulation, etc. It can be used as a rope. We have the shell which can be used
in crafts, the nut which can be used in milk, oil, etc. There is coconut water. So we really have multiple
facets to highlight. And for a small island like ours
where we are often unemployed, it would be an opportunity, I think,
for politicians to take a look at the coconut tree. It would be very good
for our island, I think. From these coconut trees,
Didier also collects the sap to transform it into caramel,
molasses or sugar. According to him, the coconut tree could replace
sugarcane, which represents 57 percent of the island’s agricultural area. One hectare of coconut trees can yield
three times more sugar than one hectare of cane, with comparable taste quality
and a very low glycemic index , which could even be
tolerated by some diabetics. My coke supplier,
so on Vincent in the water. So he agrees
to replant coconut trees. And since he has coconut trees that are already
quite mature, we would be very interested in setting up
local sugar production. And we might be the first
Europeans to launch our coconut sugar. So, that’s one of our goals. Back on his farm,
it is time for Guibert to cut the roots of this mountain of rhizomes. Unfortunately, there are
no machines. Everything is done by hand and carefully. If you’re all alone in front of a pile
of turmeric like that, it’s true that you quickly get discouraged. But when we do it as a family,
it’s more encouraging. There is my mother, my son, my daughter,
my worker. When there are several of us, we move forward
faster when telling jokes. Separated from their roots, the
turmeric rhizomes are washed in this concrete mixer. It then dries in the sun under this
greenhouse that Guibert made to protect the turmeric in case of rain. So, this turmeric has been
drying down there for about eight days. And there, it is ideal to put
in the mincer, to cut into strips and to dry, of course,
before grinding, before the final phase. The rhizomes are cut into strips
in this machine, then spread out again to prevent oxidation. For Guibert, the
hardest part is done. So, in fact, turmeric,
when you process it, give it back in strips, there is
a scent that comes out in the nostrils. It’s super good. And I love it. And that’s why I do
turmeric too, by the way. And there you have it, it’s a good job. It’s hard, it’s painful,
but in the end, we don’t lose. When the turmeric is dry and crunchy
to hand, it is ground in this workshop and reduced to powder. Guibert then puts it in a bag
with the help of his successor. My son is the one who sticks the labels. I hope he will take over all
the work I have done, by the way. The hardest part is done,
but all that remains is to harvest. Later, I would like to take
over from my father. He is an example for me,
he is my role model. He taught me everything in this profession. And yes, I would like to take
all of this up again later. I’m very proud to hear
my son speak like that. It warms my heart. Guibert can also count on his mother,
who is never far away. She has always been there
to help me work. She is still 77 years old. While we are still quite strong. A little tired, but… It’s a family that likes to move.
That’s why we’re in shape. Jacky values all this work
in his own way. He organizes cooking workshops
inspired by what he finds on the market. And today, the
flagship product is turmeric. We don’t put turmeric in this
famous bread morum that we have. So we’ll take this from you, some turmeric,
the vinegar too, and the syrup, and then the jelly too. The objective is to introduce
and promote Reunion products, and also
Reunion cuisine, which is very rich. Reunion Island cuisine draws
80% of its inspiration from Indian cuisine. Moreover, the word curry is
a word of Indian origin. Participants discover many
products such as this cabbage palm, the heart of the dead tree which
can only be obtained after seven to eight years. The shopping is done. It’s time to get cooking
in a heavenly setting. We’re going to settle down there
and so we’re going to prepare everything we bought at the market earlier. So, all our races are here. If you like, the tradition in Reunion
is these big family and friendly picnics too. We come and almost nothing is ready. And we’re going to cook everything on site in these
little fireplaces that are designed for that purpose. And it’s really the great tradition to
eat like this. And we spend the day playing,
eating and drinking. On the menu, chicken curry with
palm cabbage and tuna samosas. Jacky brought the tool that is
essential in the local cuisine: the pestle. This pebble, used for pounding food,
is found on the seashore, shaped by the rolling water. There are many beliefs
surrounding the pestle. It was also the first gift
given to a couple who were about to settle down or get married. And usually it was the
groom’s father who gave it to his daughter-in-law. The message was very clear:
Cook and feed my son well. Using the pestle, Jacky prepares the filling of
garlic, tuna, and spices for the samosas. Each ingredient has its own story
and the technique for folding samosas is unique. While the participants practice
, the chicken cooks on the stove with the tomatoes,
palmetto and turmeric. It’s time to move on to tasting. And here is the palm heart caricoulet. This is your achievement. The reactions are positive and
the visitors are convinced. So much so that some
come back regularly. Each time, he makes me learn
new dishes from Reunion Island that I do n’t know, whether it’s palm heart, with
or without vegetables that I don’t know. Every time, it’s a nice surprise. It’s still very, very good.
There is no problem. Sometimes they wait until it’s
too hot or too spicy or whatever.
But actually, they’re surprised by… Like all of this, but it all
comes together properly. And wonderfully well, we might say. Like our
mixed population who come together and live together perfectly. It is like our kitchen. For his part, Didier receives Supra Magnan,
a Hindu priest. He wants to offer him a partnership
to recover the coconuts used in Hindu rites
to avoid waste. Because after being opened, the coconuts
are thrown away in very large quantities. We would like to transform these coconuts
into oil, soap, flour. A multitude of things. And we would like you to give us some. Our coconut is too expensive,
so we need as many coconuts as possible. To convince him,
Didier shows the priest his technique of forming the shell into artisanal objects. A simple, fast and cost-effective way. It’s simple. Yes, very simple. Yes, and I can sell that for €2. For Reunion, I think
it’s a good thing. Because the Hindus throw it back into the sea
when they could make money from it. If they want, I can
show them how to do it. How to transform it? Yes, that’s a very good idea. We do it in India,
so there are things to do. All
parts of the coconut can be used. This is important. India
is an exemplary country for the use of coconut, which is an
integral part of the culture. Didier has already found several
Hindu temples to follow his steps, and this priest also seems to
validate his proposal. Soami came to see us here,
and it’s true that we talked with him, and he knew that he was a little bit
on the same wavelength as me. And I am very impressed by everything
that is being done in India, because in India, it is true that it is a much
poorer country than ours perhaps, but where they use all the coconut. And here, we only do a
hundredth of it, let’s say. Didier and this priest found a good
compromise, because Hindu rituals are destined to continue on the island. And the use of coconut,
considered the fruit of God, is crucial. When we break the coconut,
we abandon our ego to gain knowledge and understanding. You can’t do anything without coconut. No ceremony, nothing. Guibert regularly organizes
open days on his farm. He takes the opportunity to demonstrate the work
of turmeric and to have people taste it through meals prepared on site. Unfortunately, for meals
today, I turned away a lot of people.
Today and for tomorrow. I’m sorry, but we have a certain
amount to take and we can do anything. Even though Guibert repeats the same gestures
as every day, these open days allow him to share his knowledge
in a warm and festive atmosphere, arousing the curiosity of visitors. And then when you replant,
you just take a shoot, you replant it like that. In fact, we take the smallest ones and
put them aside to replant. We can plant that too. Didier explains each step. His work interests and surprises all types of
visitors, even former inhabitants of the island. We lived here from 99 to 2000. And so, we come on vacation and we
try to buy products to take to mainland France. We always like to deal
with the producer to buy directly and maintain local
and regional productions to maintain a little heritage. I wish turmeric
a long life and that we continue on the right path. And that people are consuming
more and more. People already
know the difference between turmeric from Reunion Island
and turmeric from India. For me, what is the goal? It’s selling my product, of course. And that people are happy. They really see that it’s
a quality product. It’s done with me. For Guibert, the mission is accomplished. Thanks to its open doors and
passionate work, turmeric finds many followers who ensure the sustainability
of this traditional product. As for Didier, even if the waves will
never carry the coconuts to the land of his island,
he is on the right track to make them queen and offer
a new face to Reunion.