If you’ve been to a fashionable restaurant in the past six months, one that prides itself on the creativity of its cooking, you can’t have failed to notice the rise of a new super-ingredient. Or, more accurately, one as old as the hills but which has newly been given a starring role: olive oil.
These days it’s not just for drizzling on bread or adding to salads: you’ll see it poured over vanilla ice cream (famously a favourite of the pop star Dua Lipa), on chocolate mousse and in martinis. There’s even an olive oil pop-up bar opening this month in — where else? — Notting Hill (citizensofsoil.com).
Chantelle Nicholson, chef-owner of Apricity in London, describes olive oil as another level of seasoning.
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
“I love it for its flavour, texture and health benefits and use it to give a final flourish of flavour. Like wine, olive oil has its own terroir, and differences in flavour will shine through.”
She’s a fan of the Citizens of Soil brand for its regenerative farming approach, but Which? recently judged Filippo Berio 100% Italian, M&S Nocellara del Belice and Tesco’s Finest Sicilia to be the three best extra virgin olive oils in their taste test.
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Olive oil ice cream
Serves 8
This is a cheat’s ice cream, in that it doesn’t need churning. But if you want to cheat even more, simply serve good quality vanilla (or chocolate) ice cream and top with salt and olive oil. As ever, don’t skimp on the quality of the oil here.
Ingredients
• Half a tin of condensed milk
• 50ml extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for pouring
• 600ml double cream
• Sea salt
Method
1. Whisk together the condensed milk and olive oil until well combined.
2. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until it forms stiff peaks. Beat one spoonful of the whipped cream into the oil and milk to loosen it, then use a spatula to fold the oil and milk mixture into the whipped cream, being careful not to knock the air out of it.
3. Transfer to a sealable container and freeze for at least 4 hours. Remove about 10 minutes before serving with a sprinkle of sea salt and extra oil.
• Read more restaurant reviews and recipes from our food experts
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Olive oil martini
Serves 1
For those who like a lot of olives in their martinis. Personally I like to spritz it with a twist of lemon zest just before serving, but I’ll leave that to you.
Ingredients
• 50ml olive oil-washed gin*
• 10ml dry vermouth
• 5ml amontillado sherry (optional)
• 3 green olives, to garnish
Method
Add all the ingredients except the olives to a mixing glass filled with ice. Stir for 15 seconds and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with the olives.
*To make olive oil-washed gin
Combine 8 parts gin with 1 part good quality extra virgin olive oil (eg 200ml gin and 25ml oil) in a glass jar. Put the lid on and leave to stand at room temperature for 24 hours. Place in the freezer overnight to solidify the fat and strain through coffee filter paper to produce your oil-washed gin.
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Tomato and rosemary focaccia
Makes 1 loaf
Focaccia is one of the easiest breads to make, but don’t overbake it or it will lose its lovely springiness.
Ingredients
• 500g strong white flour
• 2 tsp salt
• 1 x 7g sachet of fast-action yeast
• About 200ml olive oil
• 400ml lukewarm water
• 150g cherry tomatoes
• Few sprigs rosemary
• 1 tsp sea salt
Method
1. Put the flour, salt and yeast in a large mixing bowl, keeping the salt and yeast on opposite sides. Make a well in the middle and add 2 tbsp oil and most of the water, holding some back in case you need to adjust the consistency. Mix with wet hands until you have a sticky dough.
2. Tip the dough onto a lightly oiled work surface and knead for 10 minutes until soft. Place the dough in a clean bowl, cover with a tea towel or large plastic bag and leave to prove for an hour or two at room temperature until it has doubled in size.
3. Generously oil a shallow, rectangular tin, about 20 x 30cm. Scrape in the dough and use your hands to stretch it out to fill the tin. Cover with a tea towel (or put the tray in a big plastic bag) and leave to prove for another 90 minutes.
4. Heat the oven to 200C fan/gas 7. Use your fingertips to press down into the dough to make lots of small dimples and place the tomatoes and rosemary sprigs in some of these. Drizzle generously with more oil and scatter over the sea salt. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden. Serve with more oil, if you like.
• What Tom Kerridge and Raymond Blanc take on a picnic
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Olive oil cake
Serves 8
This is, dare I say it, a pretty much foolproof recipe. While perfectly nice on its own, it’s best served with sliced fruit or compote and a dab of crème fraîche.
Ingredients
• Zest and juice of two lemons
• 150g caster sugar
• 2 medium eggs, at room temperature
• Pinch of salt
• 150ml olive oil, plus extra for greasing
• 100ml kefir or buttermilk
• 175g self-raising flour
Method
1. Heat the oven to 170C fan/gas 5. Grease and line a 20cm springform cake tin with oil and baking paper.
2. In a large mixing bowl, rub the zest into the sugar, then use an electric whisk to beat in the eggs and salt. Once pale and fluffy, slowly beat in the olive oil, lemon juice and kefir or buttermilk. Sift in the flour and whisk until just combined.
3. Pour the batter into the cake tin and bake for 30-40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin.
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Olive oil chocolate mousse
Serves 6
You can use a shop-bought mousse if you like, but it’s hardly difficult to make and, if you do, you can control the bitterness of the chocolate. I’d use anything from 60-72 per cent cocoa solids.
Ingredients
• 300g dark chocolate
• 6 eggs, separated
• 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt
Method
1. Melt the chocolate in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, ensuring the bottom of the bowl does not touch the water. Meanwhile, whisk the egg whites until they form stiff peaks.
2. Once the chocolate is melted, remove from the heat and whisk in the egg yolks, one at a time. Then whisk in the olive oil.
3. Stir a spoonful of the egg whites into the mixture to slacken it, then gently fold in the rest until there are no streaks. Transfer to a serving dish or dishes and leave in the fridge for at least 4 hours. Serve with sea salt and extra oil, if liked.
Two simple salad dressings
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Classic French
No two chefs will agree about the ingredients or ratios in the perfect vinaigrette, but one part vinegar to four parts olive oil is a popular starting point, plus a dollop of mustard – English or French. More important than the oil is the vinegar. I like either chardonnay or vermouth vinegar, which bring a little sweetness to the party.
Ingredients
• 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
• 1 tsp English or Dijon mustard
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• Six ways to make a salad really healthy — and what to avoid
ROMAS FOORD FOR THE TIMES MAGAZINE
Preserved lemon and honeyIngredients
• 4 tbsp olive oil
• Half a preserved lemon, chopped
• 1 garlic clove
• Juice of half a lemon
• 1 tsp honey
• Few sprigs parsley or oregano
Place all the ingredients in a blender and blitz until smooth. Check seasoning before serving with Greek salad.