Athens, by and large, is a city defined by an exceptionally rich, storied history. Such tradition bleeds into the city’s every vein, from its food to its hospitality to, of course, its wine. And yet, in recent years, all three have been subject to a cultural revolution, of sorts, as a new wave of natural wine bars transforms not only its wine production, but the city’s restaurant landscape. How, then, has a place so rooted in tradition suddenly been willing to change its tune? Only once a walking tour is over does the answer become quite obvious. The Athens of today is less concerned with clinging to tradition. Rather, as new wine bars emerge to breathe new life into its time-honoured craft, the city’s focus lies on creating spaces for those who call it home. During my own explorations through Athens, I discovered a trio of spaces defining the new age of Athens’ wine culture.
Voulkanizater
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
Voulkanizater
Photos courtesy of Voulkanizater.
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Occupying an old body shop, the view from outside Voulkanizater is a familiar sight in Athens — patrons spill out into the street, glasses in hand, laughing, yelling, music playing. In that sense, it is quintessentially Greek; no motive, no end in sight. Is there enough space at the table for the late joiners? Yes. Enough space for all the food that was just ordered? Hopefully. While local requirements are easy to meet, owner Nepheli Sachverdyan felt that there weren’t enough experiences in Athens designed with the thoughtfulness she knew the city was capable of.
Perhaps that experience has something to do with the recent fascination with restaurant set design. Hi-fi sound and robust lighting define the neo-dinner-and-a-show experience that today’s guest seeks every night out. While mise-en-scène typically transports a guest, Voulkanizater uses it to ground the experience in its industrial and DIY-esque reality. Here, body shop tropes remain present — heavy metals, exotic rims measuring in at a minimum of 22 inches, C.J. Parker posters — the juxtaposition of worn-down and fully serviced are a reminder of what was, and what always will be.
In Sachverdyan’s words, “A defining element that can make a space both unique and relevant is the ability to create a strong emotional connection. Whether it’s through a distinctive material palette, an innovative layout, or an experience-driven approach, a well-designed space should feel both personal and timeless.” While auto restoration and small plates have little in common, Voulkanizater is proof that it always comes down to the finished product.
Okupa
Okupa
Photo courtesy of Okupa.
Okupa
Photo courtesy of Okupa.
Okupa
Photo courtesy of Okupa.
Okupa
Photo courtesy of Okupa.
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The average tourist might spend up to a week in Athens before heading for the islands, while residents and long-term visitors conform to urban planning and infrastructure that rarely has them in mind. Instead of fighting against it, Okupa found a loophole to the problem and looks to sew new threads into the city’s cultural fabric.
Being so acutely focused on tourism has created a cultural disconnect between Athens and its visitors. For owner Georges Batrouni, integration between the city and those visiting is the solution. “Okupa is a space for both locals and travellers. We prefer the term ‘travellers’ to ‘tourists,’ as we have designed the space to encourage longer stays and a more authentic experience,” Batrouni says. Visually, this is done through preservation — Okupa remains a relic of ’70s Cold War brutalism — paying homage to a city defined by its ability to repurpose and revitalize.
Through programming and design, the cultural experience found in the city is felt within the space. Instead of being handed a brochure titled “What to do in Athens,” guests are privy to wellness workshops and music programming; not only do guests coexist and work together, but they are also introduced to the community. Where culture has typically made way for lodging, Okupa invites you in and welcomes you to stay awhile.
Wine Is Fine
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
Wine Is Fine
Photo courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
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I’d argue that the Greek taverna and natural wine bar are in fact two sides of the same coin. Their coexistence is understandably intimidating — one represents culture and history, while some see the other as the final act of gentrification. All opinions are welcomed, but the truth is, Wine Is Fine is doing great two years in — not only because of what they serve, but, more importantly, who. As I see it, Wine Is Fine might be on both sides of that coin.
The first indication of this is its location — sat on the corner of a sleepy side street tucked behind the chaos of the Monastiraki tourist hub. It is the kind of street that only your GPS would lead you down; and for those with a keen sense for sniffing out the good stuff, it’s exactly the kind of street you explore in search of authenticity. While the menu isn’t inherently Greek, the delivery definitely is. Food is cooked with fresh local ingredients, with a menu that changes at the same rate as any classic taverna nearby. To be a wine bar suggests an extensive list, which theirs is. That said, you’re better off getting a bottle of something Greek, considering it’s a favourite hangout amongst producers.
Hospitality is at the core of Greece’s value system; for them, food and a good time are to be shared. And yet for an Athenian, everything must be shared — whether they like it or not. Perhaps this is why the community welcomed Wine Is Fine with open arms — it isn’t there for the tourist who needs 10 minutes of WiFi, but rather for those who don’t need their phones if they’re out for a drink. For Athens, Wine Is Fine feels refreshing — but to its community, that feeling might be nostalgia.
Featured Image: Wine Is Fine, courtesy of Panos Ntaoutis.
