Kotan, 枯淡 (Tabelog Silver, 4.29) Fukuoka, Japan

Noguchi-San’s counter is one of the more talked about Tabelog promotions this year.

The Sushi-ya posts a style of its own, fusing learnings from classic Edomae-style with ingredients of Kyushu. Ostumami at Kotan offers a variety of flavor profiles. The highlight was Ankimo with Nara-zuke, silky texture with a perfect balance of savory and citrusy sweet. The nigiri flow pays homage to the lineage of Sugita. Hikarimono pieces were wonderful, while the Maguro servings are relatively weak in flavors. One thing to note is the sizable neta(think close to Sawada level)served, while the mouthfeel is satisfying to the many fish cuts, Shari is sometimes overpowered.

Overall, the shop with its outstanding value for money performance, has earned a fair standing amongst its silver ranked peers, with great upside potential in both culinary servings and operations.

Course below as of 2025 Summer

Ostumami:
1. Mozuku seaweed in sweet vinegar marinate
2. Boiled Octopus, topped with Okra jam
3. Steamed Abalone, with liver sauce
4. Shari, with liver sauce
5. Ebodai with eggplants, lightly shabu-shabu
6. Chawanmushi in Hamaguri Dashi, topped with Edomame
7. Ankimo with Nara-zuke
8. Grilled Eel, with pickled yuzu peel

Nigiri:
1. Kohada (Glizzard Shad)
2. Madai (Sea Bream)
3. Sumi-Ika (Squid)
4. Chu-toro (Medium Tuna Belly)
5. Toro-zuke (Soy-marinated Tune Belly)
6. Akami-zuke (Soy-marinated Lean Tuna)
7. Iwashi (Sardine)
8. Kisu (whiting)
9. Shima-Aji (Striped Jack)
10. Kuruma-Ebi (Tiger Prawn)
11. Murasaki Uni (Purple Sea Urchin)
12. Anago (Conger Eel)
13. [Add-on] Hamaguri (Hard Clam)
14. Tamago (Egg)

Total bill at exactly 30k Yen with 4 servings of sake and 1 add-on nigiri piece.