I grew up accompanying my Nonno to all of the lesser-known, authentic Italian specialty stores as a kid. Now I live in Philly where there’s some type of Italian store on every corner it seems. If you’re lucky enough to have an Italian specialty foods store near you, definitely go check it out — ASAP. If not, I’d recommend visiting two of my favorite online retailers: Supermarket Italy and Cerini Coffee and Gifts (make sure you click on “food products” to really see everything). And if you’re honestly not sure whether there’s an Italian market in your area, trust me, it’s worth finding out.
Supposing you didn’t spend your elementary years grocery shopping with a 65-year-old Italian man, going into one of these stores can be overwhelming. Luckily, I have spent the last almost-30 years trying everything that can possibly come oil-packed in a jar, and I love to share the wealth. Here are the items you definitely need to throw in your shopping basket.
Calabrian Chili
You can buy calabrian chilis a few different ways: dried (whole or flaked) or in oil (whole or crushed). My favorite is usually the crushed or “paste” variety where they’re packed in oil. Think of it kind of like a very spicy roasted red pepper you might find in the jarred aisle of the grocery store. Calabrain’s have such a special and distinct flavor; they definitely bring the heat, but they also have some sweetness and an almost citrusy quality to them. I always add a healthy scoop to any pasta sauce to bring some dimension to the dish, and love mixing it into mayo to create a spread for the ultimate Italian hoagie. The sky’s really the limit here, add a scoop or two anywhere you want some especially flavorful heat.
‘Nduja
If Italians made their version of Mexican chorizo, it would be ‘Nduja. Like chorizo, it’s a heavily spiced, loose pork sausage. It can be simply eaten as-is — perhaps as part of a spread on a charcuterie board — but it really shines when paired with creamy ingredients. Think pizza toppings or swirled into ricotta on top of pasta. Use this pork powerhouse as a condiment anywhere you want some spicy, salty heat.
Anchovy Paste
Anchovies really get a bad wrap. A lot of people think they don’t like anchovies, but most of the time, you can hardly detect them when used correctly. That said, you’d certainly notice their absence once you’ve tasted a perfectly salty puttanesca or a savory Caesar dressing that contains them. Anchovy paste, which is an especially convenient format for purchasing and using anchovies, is such a versatile ingredient… I could hardly imagine not having a tube in my kitchen at all times. A little squeeze can boost the background umami in pastas, sauces, soups, salad dressings, and more.
Double Concentrate Tomato Paste
Once you’ve tasted how deep and sweet double concentrate tomato paste is, you’ll never go back to the standard variety. The best stuff comes in a tube that you can reseal to use again and again. A little bit can go a long way here because the flavor is so much richer and more concentrated than the regular tomato paste you might find in a can at the grocery store. I use it all the time in pretty much all the tomato-based foods I make; in fact, it’s my secret weapon in making the most incredible all-day red sauce. Because of its higher sugar content, double concentrate paste has more capacity for delicious caramelization. Next time you’re braising any type of red meat, try adding a little squeeze to the braising liquid and thank me later.
Oil-Packed Tuna
I spent a lot of time at my grandparents’ house as a kid and one thing that was always in the cabinets, ready to serve as an impromptu snack for me and my grandfather, was oil packed tuna. Oil-packed tuna from an Italian grocery store is packed in jars or cans in bigger, meaty chunks, and is usually yellowfin tuna instead of albacore — i.e. the water-packed kind you would find in a standard grocery store. Water-packing dilutes the flavor of the fish while oil-packing amplifies it, plus the remaining oil is just as valuable as the fish itself. (Fry an egg in that oil and have your mind blown.) While I can’t imagine not being satisfied just scooping it right onto crostini, you can use oil-packed tuna in pasta, salads, dips, and more. Like most fish, it goes great with acidic and briney flavors like lemon, capers, or olives.
Mulino Bianco
My favorite thing about Italians is how we love to eat cookies for breakfast. It’s honestly probably the best idea anyone has ever had, especially when it’s Mulino Bianco cookies. They’re the most popular brand in Italy and it’s easy to see why: They come in countless varieties and they’re all delicious dunked in a cup of coffee. Honestly, my advice is to buy one of everything. But if you don’t feel like having 50 bags of cookies in your house at once, I’d recommend starting with one of the “plain” shortbread-type shapes and one of the (many) fruit or chocolate varieties. The ones I always pick up are the Cuor di Mela (apple) and the Baiocchi (sandwich cookie filled with chocolate hazelnut spread)
Oil-Cured Olives
Any olive is a good olive if you ask me, but salt-cured or oil-cured olives are really where it’s at. Their flavors are so deeply condensed from curing that they’re just like little nuggets of flavor explosion. I love their intense saltiness and often eat them right out of the jar or with a cheese and cracker plate. However, I sometimes prefer to tame their intensity and use them as an ingredient within another dish. Cured olives are great in tapenade and dips, on top of pizza, in pasta, and my personal favorite, baked into focaccia.
Amarena Cherries
If a maraschino cherry was actually good and tasted like a juicy, black cherry, it would be an amarena cherry. They are delectable and infinitely versatile. I’ve baked them into panettone, drizzled them over waffles, swirled them into yogurt, and spooned them over ice cream. Plus, there are myriad ways that the syrup can be used in cocktails. If you liked maraschino cherries as a kid, but are looking for a more refined, grown-up version, this is the product for you.
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Dining and Cooking