Durigutti Family Winemakers’ Finca Victoria (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
It was on Thursday, December 1, 2022 that Criolla Chica, a rather unassuming ancient Argentine grape, was first introduced to the readers of Thursday Food by this writer. Pink-skinned and widely planted in Argentina, as much as Malbec, this varietal was largely unknown outside of the country even among seasoned wine aficionados. Despite its historic presence in Argentina, it had long lived in the shadows of nobler red grapes like Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc, always in the background but never quite making it to the forefront on its own. Fast-forward two years and the landscape has shifted. As of August 16, 2024, Criolla Chica has been officially elevated by the Instituto Nacional de Vitivinicultura (INV), Argentina’s governing body of wine, to the exalted status of a quality grape.
So, what has changed and what exactly does this mean? Until very recently, wine producers were constrained by Criolla Chica’s status as a rosé-approved grape, which meant it denied Argentina’s vintners the freedom to bottle these wines as proper reds. The INV’s decision last year, represents a pivotal moment for the industry, not only for legal labelling but for creative liberty in winemaking. Now, winemakers can label Criolla Chica wines with Geographical Identification (IG) or even seek Denomination of Origin (DOC) status, certifications that elevate perception, consumer trust, and international desirability. No longer relegated to bulk blends or consumed quietly by the locals, it now stands proudly among the titans, eligible for the same legal classifications and global recognition.
Criolla Chica is the result of a genetic cross between Egypt’s Moscatel de Alejandría, one of the world’s oldest known grapes, and Listán Prieto (also known as the Mission grape) which was brought from Spain by missionaries. This hybrid adapted extremely well on arrival to its rugged new home, especially thriving in Argentina’s Andean foothills, particularly in the Mendoza province. Its name, Criolla, denotes its South American identity (native born of European blood) and Chica, meaning small, distinguishes it from its broader family of Criolla grapes. Yet, despite its heritage and hardiness, Criolla Chica was overlooked and instead treated as common, even rustic, with its light colour coupled with a gentle flavour dismissed as lacking gravitas in a market that worshipped red wines of intensity and depth.
As time went on, however, winemakers started to recognise this grape and the wines it produced as being amongst the most elegant red vintages. Then more vintners started to experiment with the grape eventually leading it to become a favourite in the domestic wine market. Such was its growth that, almost 500 years after it first arrived, wine regulations were updated allowing the world an opportunity to recognise the Criolla Chica for what it always was: A light-bodied, aromatic red wine with bright acidity, soft tannins, and a uniquely refreshing profile. In fact, in an era where global palates are shifting and vinophiles are craving lower alcohol content, food-friendly wines, and lighter, more expressive reds, Criolla Chica has emerged not just as an option, but as a revelation. But, don’t just take our word for it. In 2024 Criollas from Argentina earned 2 medals, silver and bronze, at the Decanter World Wine Awards (DWWA) and at the 2025 event held earlier this year, the country did one better by earning gold.
For boutique winemakers and heritage producers alike, the door has swung wide open as, suddenly, there’s room on the global stage for Argentina’s lighter side or red, one rooted not in power but in finesse, freshness, and authenticity. Consumers are ready too as this varietal is a red that is great for summer days and nights, whether you’re picnicking in the park or just chilling home with friends and family. Its cultural resilience, vinous memory and quiet rebellion are all very much part of the Argentine identity, poured into a glass. Thursday Food invites you to rediscover this beloved Argentine varietal through the eyes of three bodegas:
Cara Sucia Criolla by Durigutti Family Winemakers scored 90 points and earned for itself a silver medal at the 2024 DWWA. This red wine is made from 100 per cent Cereza grapes which are among Argentina’s native Criolla varieties. Aromatic on the nose, it expresses aromas of strawberry, red cherry, wild berries, flowers and smoky hints. It is herbaceous on the palate, showing tension.
Callia Criolla is a 100 per cent Criolla Chica variety made by Bodegas Callia in Valle De Tulum, in the province of San Juan. This red wine, which earned a bronze medal after scoring 89 points at the 2024 DWWA, is a bright, ruby red colour of medium intensity. Its aromas are of fresh red fruits such as strawberries and cherries. On the palate it has a light-to-medium body, with vibrant acidity that highlights its freshness, making it easy to drink, with a delicate texture and a juicy finish.
Proyecto Las Compuertas Chica Criolla is a 100 per cent varietal also by Durigutti Family Winemakers that earned a gold medal after scoring 95 points at the 2025 DWWA. It is gently expressive with an elegant, fresh and floral aroma, exhibiting notes of jasmine and pink grapefruit on the nose. In the mouth, it has a marked acidity, silky tannins and a delicate, citrusy finish.
Cadus Appellation Tunuyán Criolla Chica is a bright violet-coloured wine that is fresh and fruity, with aromas of cherries and plums, and some mineral notes like graphite, reminiscent of its specific aging. It also features hints of wild herbs like thyme and rosemary on the nose and on the palate is juicy and fresh, with a firm texture yet very pleasant and long-lasting finish. This vintage scored 94 points in the Tim Atkin MW Best of Argentina 2025 Wine Report.
The recognition of Criolla Chica as a quality grape may seem like a bureaucratic win, but it marks something far more meaningful, a paradigm shift in Argentine wine identity. For the wine enthusiast who believes that true luxury lies in the discovery of new experiences, Criolla Chica is a passport to the soul of Argentine wine beyond the usual suspects. It’s an invitation to expand your palate, enrich your wine journey, or simply indulge in something beautifully different. Salud!
Callia Criolla earned a bronze medal after scoring 89 points at the 2024 DWWA.Photo by Bodegas Callia
Durigutti Family Winemakers’ Finca Victoria (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
Durigutti Family Winemakers’ Finca Victoria offers accommodation at two guest houses that feature breathtaking vineyard views. (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
The winery at Bodegas Callia (Photo by Bodegas Callia)
The winery’s aging room (Photo by Bodegas Callia)
Proyecto Las Compuertas Chica Criolla earned a gold medal after scoring 95 points at the 2025 DWWA. (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
Cadus Appellation Tunuyán Criolla Chica (Photo by Cadus Wines)
Cara Sucia Criolla scored 90 points and earned a silver medal at the 2024 DWWA. (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
Durigutti Family Winemakers’ 5 Suelos Cocina de Finca Restaurant appears in the 2024 & 2025 Michelin Guide (Photo by Durigutti Family Winemakers)
Pedernal Valley Vineyard at Bodegas Callia 2 (Photo by Bodegas Callia)
Dining and Cooking