“Maccherone, you provoked me, and I will destroy you!” exclaims Alberto Sordi, confronted with a huge portion of spaghetti, his mouth wide open, aiming to swallow a hefty forkful at once. That scene from An American in Rome (1954) still embodies the quintessence of traditional Roman cuisine: humble, comforting and plentiful.
The countryside around the capital provides an abundant selection of fresh produce — think globe artichokes, romanesco broccoli, sweet ricotta and that subtly spicy pecorino romano, generously sprinkled on pasta classics like yolky carbonara or cacio e pepe. Not to mention the wines, particularly the whites, produced in the tranquil hills of the Castelli Romani, southeast of the city.
While still shaped by deep-rooted customs, a forward-looking generation of restaurateurs is introducing a fresh perspective. Tradition is an evolving concept, after all. These are the ultimate places to eat in Rome if you’re looking to unravel the city’s culinary culture and glimpse the future of its food scene.
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1. Retrobottega, Centro
££ | BOOK AHEAD | BAR | Best for inventive dishes and a cool vibe
Not far from the Pantheon, Retrobottega (Italian for “backshop”), is the brainchild of chefs Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi. It’s a moody hotspot with low lighting, a sleek, minimalist decor and cool background music. Conviviality is at its heart: tables are communal, most dishes are made to share and guests help themselves to cutlery from a drawer. Expect seasonality and unusual flavour pairings, alongside a well-thought wine list focusing on small producers. With 26 seats, it fills up fast. If you don’t have a reservation, the winery area at the restaurant’s entrance also serves food.
retro-bottega.com
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2. Santo Palato, San Giovanni
££ | BOOK AHEAD | Best for a modern trattoria with a unique flair
The decor is old fashioned — tiled floors, marble tables and French bistro chairs — but the food is audacious. Sarah Cicolini’s contemporary trattoria is an uncompromising tribute to Rome’s fifth-quarter (offal) legacy. The menu goes from cured and smoked beef heart to the iconic Roman trippa (tripe in a tomato sauce), plus chalked-up daily specials. Those less keen on innards can always opt for a flawlessly prepared pasta, such as amatriciana (with a simple sauce traditionally made with five ingredients). Drinks pairings are as daring as the food — don’t be surprised when your creamy carbonara is accompanied by an aromatic saké to balance out the bitterness of the guanciale (cured pork cheeks). It’s a forward-looking vision of Rome on a plate.
santopalatoroma.it
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3. Zia, Trastevere
£££ | BOOK AHEAD | Best for elevated fine dining
Talented Antonio Ziantoni (the restaurant’s namesake) is the chef-owner of this Michelin-starred restaurant in the more secluded part of Trastevere. It’s low-lit and tastefully decorated, reflecting the chef’s passion for interior design, and one of Rome’s most interesting fine-dining spots. Ziantoni’s cuisine is a playful yet elegant encounter of full, rounded flavours from the whole country. Dishes are imaginative and visually intriguing. The vast wine list includes over 900 labels, focusing mostly on Italian small-scale producers. Service is young and informal, yet impeccable.
ziarestaurant.com
4. Mazzo, San Lorenzo
££ | BAR | BOOK AHEAD | Best for epic food in a convivial setting
In the beginning it was a small venue with a single ten-seat pallet table in the suburb of Centocelle. Then, after a five-year break that saw owners Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccanelli opening pop-up restaurants around the world, Mazzo reopened its doors at the end of 2023 in the hip San Lorenzo district. Housed in a former bakery, it features a proper seating plan, a music corner with a vast vinyl collection and a striking wine cellar in a former bread oven. The vibe remains laid back and the menu is top-notch.
Marco and Francesca don’t follow trends, rather their inspirations: simplicity and high-quality ingredients and putting a unique spin on traditional Italian and Roman dishes. The fried tripe with pecorino and mint is epic, and so is the Asian-inspired sweet and sour lettuce.
mazzoroma.superbexperience.com
5. Da Cesare al Casaletto, Monteverde
££ | BOOK AHEAD | Best for family feasts
Along a quiet street in residential Monteverde, Da Cesare stays true to the real meaning of “trattoria” — no frills, and no fancy embellishments on the menu. Husband-wife owner duo, Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi, make every dish with care as though cooking for friends and nail all the classics with uncommon refinement. Besides their homemade pastas, must-tries include simmered beef meatballs topped with pesto and a dash of parmesan, aubergine croquettes with mint and pecorino, crispy fried gnocchi literally floating in a pool of cacio e pepe sauce and the wintry arzilla (skate) and Roman broccoli soup, a seasonal speciality that’s hard to find anywhere else. Wines are chosen with the same dedication; the extensive list reflects Leonardo’s expertise as a sommelier and only showcases labels from producers he personally knows.
trattoriadacesare.it
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6. Imago at the Hassler, Centro
£££ | BOOK AHEAD | Best for exquisite fine dining with a view
The view from the floor-to-ceiling windows of Imago — on the sixth floor of The Hassler hotel, at the top of the Spanish Steps — is the most breathtaking in Rome. The food beautifully matches the view, too: quintessential Italian cuisine with a focus on top-notch produce. There are two menus — spring-summer and autumn-winter, each meticulously crafted to let seasonal produce sing. First-time visitors will enjoy the ‘best of’ tasting menu, which includes the Michelin-starred chef’s classics such as Milanese-style squid (coated in breadcrumbs and fried). A cellar with 1,500 labels completes the exceptional dining experience.
imagorestaurant.it
7. Forno Conti & Co, Esquilino 
£ | Best for artisanal baked treats
Sergio Conti, a fourth-generation baker, regards bread almost as a religion. His family’s former panificio in Trastevere had been a reference point for several decades. The Nordic-inspired artisanal bakery — designed by his architect wife, Germana de Donno — in the multicultural Esquilino, is the next chapter in his lifelong baking journey.
White, bright and minimalistic, it is great for anything from breakfast to afternoon snacks. Get inspired by the opulent display behind the counter — fragrant breads, flaky croissants, Roman-style pizza, savoury pies, quiches and the indulgent maritozzo, orange-scented brioche buns filled with whipped cream (it’s the city’s best-known pastry). Don’t miss the special breads of the day, too, particularly the panfrutto with nuts, raisins and figs. The coffee from local roastery Faro is also great. Only few tables are available, inside or on the terrace.
fornoconti.co
8. Osteria La Segreta, Centro
££ | BOOK AHEAD | BAR | Best for Southern flavours in an atmospheric space
An elegant venue on charming via Margutta that’s all about the flavours of Campania. Owner Antonio Girardi, an architect and art lover, personally selects the best suppliers from his native region, aiming for nothing but excellence. The result is authentically exceptional cuisine that needs no virtuosity. Mozzarella grilled on a lemon leaf and fried calamaretti (baby squid) are must-try dishes. This is also the place to indulge in dessert — pastiera (sweet cheese tart) and rum baba are delivered three times a week from renowned Pasticceria Scaturchio in Naples.
Look closely at the eclectic art collection displayed on the walls and you’ll find a Picasso. It’s a homage to via Margutta’s history as a magnet for creatives, including the Spanish artist who lived in the house across the street in 1917.
osterialasegretaroma.com
9. Bivium, Trevi
££ | BOOK AHEAD | BAR | Best for plant-based options and fantastic pizza
Star designer Patricia Uriquiola is behind the chic interiors of this piazza-style restaurant in the uber-cool Six Senses hotel. Chefs work magic in an open kitchen featuring a Josper grill for meat, fish and vegetables, and deli corners including fresh produce and raw food, speciality coffee and homemade gelato. Plant-based ingredients and organic local meats, seasonality and farm-to-table approach are the focus, with a priority on supporting suppliers who employ individuals with disabilities or from disadvantaged backgrounds. The most interesting things on the menu? Dishes doing funky things with fermentations and the crunchy pizza made from a special combination of ancient grains. In nice weather, have a drink at the top-floor Notos rooftop, for epic city views.
sixsenses.com
10. Roscioli, Centro
££ | BOOK AHEAD | Best for impeccable Roman flavour and gourmet produce
This deli-cum-restaurant is a stone’s throw from Campo dei Fiori and is a must on any foodie visit to Rome, be it for gourmet shopping, takeaways or a sit-down lunch. The long counter at the entrance is the pièce de résistance, a wonderland of delicacies with over 300 cured hams and cheeses. Behind it is the brick and bottle-lined dining area (the wine list is incredible), where authentic Roman flavours serious food enthusiasts crave are served. Kick off with cold cuts straight from the counter (the coppa di testa, cooked pig’s head marinated in Morellino di Scansano wine, served with a zest of ginger, is exceptional). Then delve into an evergreen pasta dish like carbonara or the simple but delicious burro and parmigiano, a decadent combination of French butter and three parmesan cheeses of different strengths.
salumeriaroscioli.com
11. Tramae, Trevi
££ | BOOK AHEAD | BAR | Best for romantic dinners
On the ground floor of Palazzo Talìa — a 16th-century mansion turned into a high-end boutique hotel in 2024 by filmmaker Luca Guadagnino — is this upscale restaurant offering a peaceful escape from the busy Trevi fountain nearby. A drink under the frescoed vaults of Il Bar della Musa — to see the walls covered in hundreds of blown glass mirror tiles from Murano — is a must before heading into the next-door dining room. Here, the chef takes diners on a journey through Italy’s classic dishes, reimagined with personal flair. There’s also an accent on fish — a nod to his Sorrento heritage. In warm weather, nab an outdoor table in the lush North African-style garden of potted palm and lemon trees.
palazzotalia.com
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Dining and Cooking