No trip to Germany would be complete without a pint, stein, or mug of beer. When many of us think of German beer, we envision pale, lager-style brews. However, there are more than 7,000 varieties of beer across the country.
Berliner Weisse, a sour wheat beer, unlike many typical malty and hoppy German varieties, was once the country’s most popular brew. However, as time passed, it was nearly forgotten. In the last few decades, the style has enjoyed a steady revival in Berlin and beyond.
Oli Lemke, founder of Lemke Berlin Brewery, which produces native Berliner Weisse in Berlin, says that there are a lot of complexities to his sour beer, “[It is] reminiscent of French cider, with notes like melon, dill and mustard seeds, with a slight barnyard flavor to it.”
Lemke admits that the flavors can be a little too adventurous for the average German drinker. That wasn’t always the case, however.
Thomas Tyrell, owner of Braukunst Atelier in Berlin, is part of a niche group of brewers who seek to revive the nearly forgotten sour brew. More than a century ago, he says, Berliner Weisse was the drink of choice.
“Around 1900, every second beer drunk in Berlin was a Berliner Weisse,” says Tyrell. “But other Bohemia beers became more popular, and the Berliner Weisse almost died. Now there are smaller breweries like Lemke and Berliner Berg producing this Berlin-native drink.”
What is Berliner Weisse?
Known as the “Champagne of the North,” Berliner Weisse once ruled Germany’s watering holes. In the 19th century, during the height of its popularity, more than 700 breweries produced the tangy beer. Napoleon was even supposedly a fan (or, at least, his troops were).
Fruity, funky, slightly fizzy, and at just 3% ABV, Berliner Weisse was seen as a refreshing alternative to hefty German beers, as well as the sparkling wines from Italy and France that were popular at the time.
Berliner Weisse has a protected designation of origin (PDO) status, which means that its name can only be used commercially if it’s brewed in Berlin. Unlike other appellation-controlled foods in Europe, such as Prosciutto di Parma from Italy and ouzo from Greece, the certification may have hindered Berliner Weisse’s expansion beyond Germany.
Anika Stockmann, of Lemke Berlin, says that the division of the city after World War II also played a part in the near extinction of Berliner Weisse.
“After the fall of the Berlin Wall, and due to mergers of breweries in Berlin, the diversity of Berliner Weisse and other regional beer styles continued to shrink,” she says.
Decades later, a new wave of young German brewers who want to put the fizz back in Berlin’s beer industry are reviving the favorite old style.
What does Berliner Weisse taste like?
Like most native and sour beers, the taste is a little funky and fruity, comparable to a zesty apple cider.
Berliner Weisse’s characteristic funk comes from the microorganisms used in the brewing process, like lactobacillus, the same good bacteria found in sauerkraut and kefir. “What gives it its mild acidity is the souring bacteria,” says Tyrell. “It is fermented with souring bacteria and various yeasts. It’s this process of bringing the right micro-organisms together that gives you the perfect Berliner Weisse.”
A native Berliner Weisse includes Brettanomyces, the original East German yeast strain. According to Lemke, “that gives it its characteristic barnyard flavor.”
Berliner Weisse boom in America
Though only a handful of boutique breweries, including Lemke, Schneeeule, and Braukunst Atelier, produce native Berliner Weisse, thanks to a small craft beer movement in Berlin, the style has taken off in the U.S.
America’s love of zesty, sour beers has made way for the production of Berliner Weisse-styled beers in craft breweries across the country. Since 2010, a steady stream of breweries has tinkered with wild yeast strains and added fruit to achieve the signature fruity tang of Berliner Weisse without the use of the Brettanomyces strain.
Alcohol levels are also slighter higher in American-made, Berliner Weisse-style beer, with some that approach 6% ABV.
Berliner Weisse-style beers to try
Creature Comforts Athena Paradiso
Food & Wine / Creature Comforts Brewing Co
This brewery in Athens, Georgia, known for its hazy IPAs, produces a series of limited edition and seasonal beers throughout the year. One of its bestsellers is the Athena Paradiso, made with a house blend of lactobacillus, watermelon, and sea salt for a refreshing, yet savory quality. Available from April to September.
Night Shift Brewing
Food & Wine / Night Shift Brewing
Night Shift is considered one of the pioneers of Berliner Weisse-styled beers in the U.S. Its brewers started to play around with sour beers in 2010.
Its Sour Series is four fruited sour ales produced throughout the year. They include Rickey Sour, made with raspberry and lime, and Mainer Sour, made with blueberry and cinnamon. All Night Shift sours are 6% ABV. The owners claim the higher-than-usual ABVs offer more complexity and tang.
Whiner Beer Company Monsieur Monster
Food & Wine / Whiner Beer Co
There’s a “crackerbread maltiness” to Illinois-based Whiner Beer Company’s Berliner Weisse, thanks to the addition of two yeast strains: saison and lactobacillus. At 5% ABV, this beer is tropical with a hint of tart citrus and pineapple. Available only during the summer season.
Fort Point Beer Company Strawberry Darling Berliner Weisse
Food & Wine / Fort Point Beer Co
San Francisco’s Fort Point Beer Company makes a Berliner Weisse with strawberries and a touch of peach and plum for extra acidity. Two types of hops are used, crystal and el dorado. They help produce a slightly tangy, yet mellow and refreshing beer best enjoyed on a city stoop, according to the brewers.
Lock 15 Brewing Twenty-Hour Berliner Weisse
Food & Wine / Lock 15 Brewing Co
Lock 15 Brewing produces a lot of great-tasting beer, which include pale ales, German porters, and lagers, so it makes sense that it would have a Berliner Weisse in rotation, too. Brewer’s yeast and a lactic-producing bacteria are used to make this 5% ABV award-winning beer.
Stereo Brewing
Food & Wine / Stereo Brewing
It’s not summer unless you have a can, or two, of Stereo Brewing’s award-winning sour beer.
In 2019, the California-based brewery took silver at the Craft Brewers Cup of California for its Summer Sun, a Berliner Weisse with hints of chili, and won gold two consecutive years at the U.S. Open Beer Championships for its Berliner Weisse sour, made with almost 200 pounds of pineapple and cherry.
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