How French Culture Still Thrives In The Lifestyle Of Pondicherry Locals

Pondicherry | Image credit: Niranjan B S/Unsplash

I crank down the car’s windows, letting in the salty breeze from the shimmering Bay of Bengal. With each passing minute on the 100-kilometre drive along the East Coast Road from Mahabalipuram, I’m whisked back to the 17th century, when the French East India Company first navigated these waters to arrive at a once-sleepy village to set up a bustling trading post. Here, the intricate trade routes of the Indian Ocean took shape. Spices, textiles, and indigo were exchanged and sent off to far-flung corners of the globe. Even after the French departed in 1954, their legacy remains in the town’s architecture, festivals, and cuisine. Inhaling the mingling scents of the sea and spices, I feel ready to dive into the cultural cauldron to see how French culture still thrives in the lifestyle of Pondicherry locals.

Pondicherry and French history: Mix of cultures

Rue Francois Martin Street | Image credit: tourismpondy/Instagram

As I start my exploration by wandering through the streets, the first things that capture my attention are the bilingual street signs. Rue de la Marine (Kadal Theru) leads to the waterfront, while Place de la République (Arasapuram Theru) reminds me of historical events. The scent of freshly baked croissants lures me inside a vintage bakery, where I am greeted with a melodically Tamilian “Bonjour”. Hunger stoked, we continue our culinary adventure with a sumptuous lunch of Creole dishes, including Meen Puyabaise (the desi version of bouillabaisse), Yeral Vindail (cooked with coconut milk and vinegar), and Vendakai Thair curry (okra cooked in yoghurt, mustard seeds, red chillies, and lentils). An interesting conversation with the owner-chef throws up trivia about the unique Franco-Tamil culinary heritage, which incorporates plenty of spices but is often toned down to suit the French palate. Later, when I catch a couple of old-timers engaged in a spirited game of pétanque in a small park, I realise that this daily ritual reflects the heart and soul of this unique coastal town.

Also read | 5 Secret Places To Check Out When You’re In Puducherry Next

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Places in Pondicherry that vibe French

The French Quarter | Image credit: Richard Mortel, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

No surprises for guessing my favourite part of town. The French Quarter feels like a page lifted straight from a novel, with streets lined by pastel-coloured colonial villas in shades of mango-yellow, powder-blue, and soft blush-pink. Delicate, ornate wrought-iron balconies hug the facades, bearing pots overflowing with cascades of bougainvillaea. From green louvred windows to carved wooden doors and porticoed entryways wrapped in ivy, it’s eye candy.

One of the hidden gems in the White Town is the Cluny Embroidery Centre, tucked within the walls of an 18th-century mansion. Here, women in traditional sarees sit with quiet focus, their hands moving deftly to bring delicate flowers and patterns to life on the finest linens. Intricate embroidery, rendered in whites, creams, and blush tones, showcases generations of skill and a fusion of Franco-Tamil aesthetics that has survived the tides of time.

Our Lady of Angels Church | Image credit: Isha Ralhan/Unsplash

Head to the Eglise de Notre Dame des Anges (Our Lady of Angels Church) nearby to admire the Greco-Roman structure, intricate gables, fine stained glass windows, and an imposing statue of Joan of Arc. One of the most unusual experiences here is attending mass in French on Sunday.

French colony and the echoes of colonialism

The French Consulate | Image credit: Himanshu Dutta

For those who care to dig deeper, stories of colonial battles, treaties, and cultural exchanges lie waiting to be discovered. The French Consulate, a pale-yellow colonial structure with arched windows, stands proudly as a reminder of diplomatic ties that still connect this corner of India to France. Close by, the whitewashed facade and ornamental gates of the Governor’s Palace echo tales of the countless affairs of state that once unfolded behind those doors. The Government Square buildings, sturdy stone facades and age-old French architectural style offer a glimpse into a Pondicherry that existed long before modernity crept in.

Old lighthouse | Image credit: maniraj/Unsplash

Strolling along the ocean-front promenade, you can stop at the brick and stone silhouette of the Old Lighthouse and think about the countless ships it guided to safe shores during the times of maritime trade. The former port office, now quiet, once thrummed with import and export business, linking the town to global trade routes. Visit the French War Memorial, a solemn tribute to Franco-Pondicherrians who laid down their lives in distant battles, stands surrounded by plaques bearing the names of the fallen.

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French hotels for a luxurious retreat

La Villa | Image credit: La VILLA Pondicherry/Facebook

In the heart of Pondicherry, you can find a delightful selection of French-inspired hotels bathed in colonial charm and modern luxury. La Villa is a beautifully restored heritage home with elegantly appointed rooms and vintage furnishings in warm hues overlooking well-tended gardens. Palais de Mahe just steps from Pondy’s bustling streets, cleverly blends South Indian and French aesthetics with tall columns, shaded verandas, and lush courtyards. At Dune de L’Orient Hotel, you will be transported back with meticulously preserved colonial architecture, high-ceilinged rooms, and antique decor. Gratitude Heritage embodies a tranquil sanctuary with pastel-hued walls, flowering courtyards, and heritage furniture. Each boutique property allows guests to get a sense of place and immerse in the town’s cultural tapestry.

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Also read | Hosting Heritage Homes On Airbnb: An Insider’s Guide

French restaurants and culinary bliss

Café des Arts | Image credit: cafedesarts/Instagram

Pondicherry’s dining scene is an exquisite journey through evolved flavours, where French finesse meets South Indian vibrance. The refined Le Dupleix, nestled in a historic colonial mansion, effectively merges European and Indian tastes with dishes like grilled fish in South Indian spices, served under ambient lighting and open-air seating. If you are seeking a bohemian vibe, pick Café des Arts for local art, rustic decor and a laid-back atmosphere. Flaky pastries, hearty sandwiches, and aromatic coffee on a relaxing afternoon? Yes, please.  La Maison Rose feels like a secret garden with its pastel facade and leafy courtyard. Sit back and savour French-inspired dishes made with fresh, local ingredients. Finally, don’t mind Villa Shanti for a menu that celebrates French and Indian cuisine with creations like prawn coconut curry alongside ratatouille in an elegant courtyard.

French cultural festivals in Pondicherry: Heritage fusion

Bastille Day | Image credit: in.ambafrance

Pondicherry’s historical ties with France are solemnly remembered and observed each year on Fête nationale (French National Day) on July 14, which commemorates the storming of the Bastille prison in Paris in 1789, the event that sparked the French Revolution. A day earlier, on July 13, pensioners from the Forces armées françaises (French armed forces) march to the Monuments aux Morts (French War Memorial), carrying the Indian and French flags and other battle standards. In the evening, La retraite aux flambeaux (the Torchlight Retreat) is held in White Town, recreating the procession of lanterns carried by Parisian citizens during the French Revolution. This blend of local culture and French tradition vividly depicts Pondicherry’s unique French identity.

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(Feature Image Credit: Niranjan B S/Unsplash)

Related: Most Beautiful Places To Visit In Pondicherry, The French Riviera Of The East

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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

What aspects of French architecture can still be seen in Pondicherry?

Pondicherry showcases beautiful examples of French architecture, including colonial villas, elegant boulevards, and pastel-coloured buildings adorned with wrought-iron balconies. Landmarks like the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus and Raj Niwas highlight the town’s historical significance and aesthetic charm.

How has French cuisine influenced local food in Pondicherry?

French cuisine has significantly influenced Pondicherry’s culinary landscape, as evidenced by bakeries offering fresh baguettes, pastries, and croissants alongside traditional Indian fare. This fusion has created a unique gastronomic experience that blends rich tastes and cooking techniques from both cultures.

Are there any French cultural events or festivals celebrated in Pondicherry?

Yes, Pondicherry celebrates several French cultural events, with Bastille Day being the most prominent, featuring parades, music, and communal gatherings. Other events like the French Film Festival and Auroville Festival further enrich the cultural tapestry, showcasing art, cinema, and creativity.

How prevalent is the French language in Pondicherry today?

French remains prevalent in Pondicherry, with many locals being bilingual in Tamil and French. Street signs, menus, and cultural exchanges reflect the continued significance of the French language in daily life and community interactions.

What role do French institutions play in contemporary Pondicherry?

French institutions, such as the Alliance Française and various French schools, play a vital role in promoting cultural exchange and education in Pondicherry. They facilitate language learning, artistic endeavours, and collaborative events that strengthen ties between French and Indian cultures.

How has French art and fashion influenced Pondicherry’s local culture?

French art and fashion have left a lasting impact on Pondicherry’s local culture, inspiring a vibrant arts scene characterised by galleries, exhibitions, and artistic collaborations. The town’s unique fashion sense, blending traditional Indian attire with French styles, reflects this cultural interplay and creative spirit.

How does Pondicherry’s lifestyle reflect a blend of French and Indian cultures?

Pondicherry’s lifestyle beautifully embodies a blend of French and Indian cultures, as seen in its cafés serving French pastries and spicy local dishes. The warm, welcoming atmosphere, communal celebrations, and leisurely pace of life highlight the harmonious coexistence of these two rich heritages.

Written By

Punita Malhotra

Punita shifted gears from a career in entrepreneurship and publishing to live her dream of travel and ..Read Morewriting. Her quest for history, heritage, food and fairytales take her to faraway lands. She writes for select travel publications, including in-flight magazines. She pens her immersive, personal stories through her blog, 100cobbledroads. Read Less