From the Libertine team, Chateau Royale feels like a two-story time capsule that was sealed at the peak of luxurious ’80s Manhattan dining. In the more formal upstairs dining room, house martinis, chilled beyond freezing to a velvety thickness, are poured tableside by a white-jacketed sommelier with a matching martini tattoo on his cheekbone. The indulgent French classics are familiar enough, yet stylishly updated. A duck à l’orange has floral calamansi notes that light the dish up like Christmas lights. And an obscenely buttery piece of sable with dashi-laced beurre blanc achieves the kind of oceanic depth James Cameron builds submersibles to reach. Head here for a special-occasion meal so delicious you won’t really mind the size of your bill. Downstairs, there’s a bar room with a more relaxed menu—we’ll be back to try their fancy hot dog.
Dining and Cooking