From pho to banh beo, chefs are reimagining Vietnam’s most beloved dishes for fine dining without losing their soul.
One sweltering June evening, I found myself in front of a plate of “pho” at a fine dining restaurant. On the pristine white porcelain rested a ribbon of thin noodles, a slice of rare beef, a drop of demi-glace scented with cinnamon and star anise, and a few sprigs of coriander scattered sparingly. It resembled a painting more than the familiar bowl of pho we know. In that instant, a question lingered: Are pho, vermicelli, banh beo and other rustic Vietnamese dishes ready to continue their story in the fine dining realm? This question stretches beyond cuisine alone; it touches culture, aesthetics and national pride. When street food takes its place at a luxurious table, what is preserved, and what is inevitably lost?
Fine dining is not merely about lofty prices or opulent interiors; it is an artful experience of eating. The concept emerged in France during the modern culinary era, the precursor to contemporary cuisine, when the first high-class restaurants drew aristocratic patrons. There, each meal became a “performance”, diners the audience, chefs the directors. Every dish was carefully prepared, beautifully presented, and served within an elegant space where even lighting and music were deliberately considered.
These rigorous standards have shaped the identity of fine dining for centuries. Yet as the world evolves, so does fine dining, becoming more accessible and inventive. It begins to embrace other cultures, blending traditions with new ideas. As chef René Redzepi (Noma, Denmark) once said: “Fine dining is how we tell the story of ordinary things, in a new language.” It is this balance between heritage and innovation that transforms fine dining into a journey of discovery, where each dish is not just tasted but experienced, heard and felt.
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For years, dishes like pho, banh beo and bun have appeared in high-end restaurants, though often limited to upgraded ingredients and presentation, without conveying deeper cultural stories or creativity beyond tradition. By the late 20th century, however, these dishes began appearing on the menus of elite Vietnamese restaurants abroad, gradually gaining recognition as expressions of Vietnam’s cultural identity.
In Saigon, Anan Saigon, under chef Peter Cuong Franklin, serves “caviar” pho, a broth condensed into jelly, placed on a sparkling spoon with caviar, ribboned noodles and thinly sliced beef rolled like a flower. Meanwhile, Lamai restaurant in Hanoi, helmed by chef Trung Tran, offers a refined take on sour pho, and Gia restaurant invites diners to savour Thanh Tri rice rolls reimagined for fine dining. Also in Saigon, Quang noodles with grilled scallops and scallion oil—a rustic dish from Central Vietnam—appear on the menu at Upstairs Tasting Room, created by chef Hiep Truong.
Dining and Cooking