STATEN ISLAND, N.Y. — If you’ve never heard of a “gagootz,” don’t worry — Staten Island is here to enlighten you. This quirky term refers to the Italian squash known as cucuzza, a long, green gourd that’s as common in local gardens as it is in neighborhood conversations. They are large enough for a grower to say, “Oh, my gourd!”
Technically pronounced “ca-coot-zah,” the word has taken on a more guttural, New York-style twist: “gagootz.” Whether you say it the Sicilian way or the Staten Island way, we’re talking about a baseball bat-sized squash that starts popping up in backyards from shore to shore every August — and this week, they should be busting out all over.
How do cucuzza grow?
Cucuzza grow from vines and take about two months to fruit. The vines can be trained up a trellis or tree with limbs at least six feet high. Once they climb and bloom, the fruits begin to emerge and hang down like nature’s ornaments.
Cucuzza are a squash colloquially called a word that sounds like “gagootz.” Pamela Silvestri, for Staten Island Advance
They grow fast — almost alarmingly so. With plenty of water and your own weed police, cucuzza can stretch several feet in just a week. Gravity helps them grow straight, though some curl like snakes. The straight ones are prized for cooking, as they’re easier to peel and chop. And yes, if someone calls you a “gagootz,” it’s a playful jab — it means you’re a little crazy.
Squash gagootz flower (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)silvestriCan I eat the “gagootz” flowers?
Yes, you can and, in fact, all parts of the plant are edible. Yet while cucuzza flowers are technically OK to eat, don’t. They have little flavor, and picking them means sacrificing the fruit that follows.
Gagootz cucuzza vines gourd squash Italian fruit leaves and tendrils (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Pamela Silvestri
Cucuzza might just be the oversized cousin of the squash family. Some fruits can grow up to six feet long — enough to feed a small block in Annadale.
Gagootz cucuzza vines gourd squash Italian fruit leaves and tendrils (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri)Pamela Silvestri
These beasts are often stored in cool, dark spots and can linger in kitchens well into October. If you haven’t received one as a gift from a generous Staten Island neighbor, you might spot them in local supermarkets. Many are grown at the Cordaro Family Plantation in Louisiana, a farm dedicated to this unique gourd.
For a musical twist, take a listen to Louis Prima’s catchy tune “My Cucuzza” — and maybe find inspiration to get cooking with the ingredient or share the right words if you’re in love.
As Prima croons, “Now you can have your pasta and your chicken cacciatore…I’d rather have Cucuzza ‘cause for me it means amore. So when the moon is shining bright on dear old Napoli I dream of my Cucuzza…She’s the only dish for me.”
To make cucuozza, peel the skin first. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri) Staff-Shot(Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)What it tastes like
Start by peeling the squash. The best part of the flesh is near the neck, where seeds are minimal. The bulb end tends to be seedier. Cucuzza has a spongier texture than zucchini, making it ideal for stews but less suited for frying. You can cook it just like other summer squash — shredded, cubed, diced, stuffed or fried. I am not a fan of the seeds so I’d suggest scooping them out and using the flesh only — but that’s my taste.
Slice into even hunks. (Staten Island Advance/Pamela Silvestri) Staff-Shot(Advance/SILive.com | Pamela Silvestri)Squash Stew for You
In a deep pot, sauté diced onions in olive oil over medium-high heat for about 10 minutes until tender. Add finely chopped garlic and cook for one minute. Stir in tomato sauce, fresh herbs, and a bay leaf. Simmer uncovered for 30 minutes to reduce and concentrate the sauce. Add pitted black olives, peeled and diced cucuzza, salt, pepper, and a pinch of cinnamon. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes until the squash is tender and translucent. Stir in drained cannellini beans and cook for five more minutes. Serve with a poached egg or over polenta.
Vegan “Zuke” Pancakes
This recipe hails from the late Andrea Jay, beloved Advance columnist and dedicated vegan from Castleton Corners.
In a medium bowl, combine white flour, sugar, salt, ground nutmeg, cinnamon, baking powder, and egg replacer. In a separate bowl, mix shredded zucchini, soy or rice milk, and vegetable or olive oil. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry until just combined. Heat a small amount of oil in a skillet and pour the batter to form round pancakes. Cook until bubbles form at the edges, flip, and brown both sides.
Whether you call it cucuzza or gagootz — or “ga-gootza” as Emeril Lagasse would say — this squash is a Staten Island summer staple — and now you know exactly what to do with it.
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Dining and Cooking