Sichuan, Steak, and Pizza: What I Ate over Three Nights in Manhattan

My brother and I had three nights in Manhattan this July. We arrived late on the first night, leaving one late-night delivery order and two full days of eating.

Day One, Late-Night Dinner: Prince Street Pizza (Delivery)

We ordered the ”Spicy Spring” square pie, i.e., their famous pepperoni Sicilian slice. The cup-and-char pepperoni were spicy, crisp, and greasy in the best way. The upside down construction of the pizza (cheese under sauce) led to a very moist, doughy, and chewy crumb. I liked aspect of the crumb, my brother did not. The undercarriage was not crispy after a 20-minute delivery via Uber Eats.

Day Two, Lunch: Ceres

We ordered the cheese and 'nduja pies. The dough was remarkable, perhaps the thinnest and crispiest I’ve ever had, with a distinctive yet subtle sourdough flavor. On the cheese pie, I thought there was neither enough sauce nor enough mozzarella, and too much grated Parmesan cheese. The primary taste was of Parmesan, which, coupled with the crispy crust, reminded both me and my brother of Cheeze-it crackers, and not in a good way. (Admittedly, I like my pizza extra saucy, and if there were more sauce and cheese on the pie, the crust probably would not hold up to be as crispy.) The 'nduja pie was better than the cheese because it had more toppings, but I found the balsamic drizzle to be overwhelming. The highlight of this pie were the bites of “burrata.” I put “burrata” in quotations because that's what's on the menu, but I believe they dollop straight stracciatella, i.e., the curd filling of burrata without the outer casing of mozzarella, on top of the pie. The stracciatella slowly melted as it sat on the pie.

• Soap-Box Note: I wish more NY-style places would use straight stracciatella instead of whole burrata. I think burrata ends up too wet for an NY-style slice, and it would be better reserved for Neapolitan pies, being as they are already rather wet, or square pies (Sicilian, Detroit, etc.), whose thick crust can handle the extra moisture.
• Note on Timing: I arrived in line at 11:30 a.m. on Thursday, July 24, and there was a line of around thirty people. Doors opened to take orders around 11:45. I was told my order would be ready at 12:45 p.m., and it was ready five minutes early. I was charged extra (I believe $2 each?) for boxes. When I left at 1 p.m., staff was telling customers that orders would not be ready till 3:30. If you want a noon-hour lunch, get there a before 11:30 a.m.!

Day Two, Dinner: 4 Charles Prime Rib

We ordered shrimp scampi, the gem salad (with an added crab cake), a French dip, two burgers, a ribeye, creamed spinach, and mac and cheese. Delicious. Lived up to the hype. The creamed spinach and French dip were highlights. The ribeye had one of the best crusts on any steak I've had; it was crispy, aromatic, savory, and light. Both the shrimp scampi and mac and cheese were tasty but not exceptional, and if I went again, I would not order them.

• Petty Soap-box Note: I think the breaking the egg-yolk-over-the-burger schtick is gimmicky. Everyone else at my table of four enjoyed it.
• Note on Getting a Table: First, I believe they are open for lunch Friday and Saturday, so if you’re having trouble getting a table, lunchtime might be a good option.
• Final Note: they have limited off-menu items worth asking about. They had a $350 porterhouse and a Dover sole.

Day Three, First Lunch: L’Industrie (West Village)

We ordered a half-Tomato/half-Margherita pie. I’ve never had a NY-style tomato slice, but being a sauce-lover, I figured I’d try it. It was tasty and fun, but… I prefer cheese. The Margherita was phenomenal. For my palate, it struck a better balance between cheese, sauce, and crust, than Ceres, both texturally and flavor-wise.

• Note on timing: We arrived at 12 noon. Ordered at 12:20, and got our pie at 12:45. My brother walked over to order Mama’s TOO in the interim.

Day Three, Second Lunch: Mama’s Too (West Village)

We ordered the pepperoni square slice. This “square” slice strikes me as more Detroit-style than Sicilian or grandma-style, for the cheese runs all the way to the crust and makes for a browned and delicious side-wall as it cooks against the high-walled pan. Texturally, this was as impressive and delightful as the crust of Ceres’ NY-style pie. The undercarriage was remarkably crisp without being chewy or overly oily. At the same time, the rest of the crumb was perhaps the lightest and airiest I’ve ever had in a square pie, almost like cotton candy!

• Petty Soap-box note: I hate (the grammar and stylization of) Mama’s TOO’s name. What gives?

Day 2, Dinner: Szechuan Mountain House (East Village)

We ordered the swing pork belly, la-zi chicken, sauteed long beans & eggplant, cabbage & fish soup, and the ma-po lobster & tofu. Everything was phenomenal, and this was my favorite meal of the trip. The garlic oil with the swing pork belly is incredibly strong and rich. The cabbage & fish soup was delightful, especially the flounder delicately poached therein. The eggplant in the sauteed long beans & eggplant was cooked perfectly. I find that sometimes in Sichuan stir-fries, the eggplant can be overcooked by the time it finishes in its sauce; not so this time. It was tender but held its shape. The light sweetness of the eggplant dish also complemented the ma-la of the la-zi chicken and the ma-po lobster & tofu. The ma-po lobster & tofu was a total treat, as I usually have occasion only to order ma-po tofu. Chunks of lobster in their shell were battered and fried and then combined with the ma-po braising liquid. Ultimately, this is not my favorite way to eat lobster, but it may be the best way to eat ma-po! Our order did not come with rice. Order rice.

All in all, it was a splendid trip, and I look forward to coming back!