Italian appetizers, drinks are winning option at Jackson Township eatery
Dan Kane
Repository entertainment editor
| The Repository
JACKSON TWP. After our movie at Tinseltown let out around 8:30 on a Saturday night last winter, a friend and I were craving a cocktail and some light food. After a mental inventory of the area’s many options, we decided to head to the nearby Sylvester’s North End Grille.
The place was jumping with people, but we snagged a couple of bar seats and settled in for conversation, beverages and a few shared Italian-style appetizers. It was a warm oasis on a cold night.
Remembering that Sylvester’s visit, I decided to review the place by sitting at the bar and focusing on the appetizers I’d so enjoyed last time. At 6:30 p.m. Monday, when my friend Brian and I pulled in, the parking lot was three-quarters full — always a good sign. We found corner seats at the bar and ordered drafts of Thirsty Dog’s 12 Dogs of Christmas Ale, a seasonal favorite.
The square, four-sided bar at Sylvester’s feels cozy and is conducive to conversation and people watching. The lighting is subdued but not too dark, there are a couple of televisions but nothing distracting, and no loud music. I had the sense that a lot of the customers are regulars. For dinner, the two of us shared three appetizers, then two more. With so many flavors and textures, it was a refreshing alternative to traditional dinner entrees.
The Maryland-style crab cakes ($10 for two) were first-rate, well-seasoned and consisting almost entirely of crab meat, with a zesty lemon aioli drizzled on top. Crab cakes often disappoint, but these were some of the best I’ve had anywhere.
The stuffed hot peppers ($8 for two) were tender, roasted banana peppers stuffed with spicy Italian sausage and topped with Sylvester’s house-made marinara and grated Parmesan. They packed substantial heat, which came on slowly.
The bruschetta ($9) was a sizable and well-presented plate of grilled ciabatta bread topped with diced tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and fresh mozzarella cheese, then drizzled with balsamic vinegar. I could eat this all day.
Three meatballs ($8) were hefty and exuded “that’s Italian” savory flavor, paired with red sauce and cheese.
Last, but not least, was Calamari Diablo ($10), a large bowl with crispy, lightly breaded calamari tossed with delicious sauteed red and green peppers and onions, with a few plump Peppadew peppers tossed in.
My friend and I ordered five appetizers to sample, which totaled $45, but two or three would be enough to satisfy most drinking duos. Other items on the antipasti list include braised escarole with garlic, bacon, cannellini beans and sausage ($7); antipasto plate with cheeses, roasted red peppers, marinated artichokes, herbed olives and crostini ($8); steamed mussels ($12); shrimp cocktail ($12); breaded and fried risotto balls with marinara ($9); and garlic toast ($4).
Entree-wise, Sylvester’s offers a variety of traditional Italian favorites, along with fish and shellfish, steaks and chops, most in the $25 to $36 range. Popular items include walleye with whole-grain mustard aioli, cedar plank smoked salmon with ginger-orange glaze and a 16-ounce, bone-in ribeye steak. Now in its 16th year of operation, Sylverster’s is owned by Nick Sylvester.
Reach Dan at 330-580-8306 or dan.kane@cantonrep.com.
On Twitter: @DKaneREP
• 4305 Portage St. NW, Jackson Township
• 330-497-1533; reservations recommended
• Kitchen hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday; 4 to 11 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday.
• Ratings based on this visit (1-poor, 2-fair, 3-good, 4-very good, 5-outstanding):
Food: 4.5
Service: 4
Value: 4
SYLVESTER’S NORTH END GRILLE
Dining and Cooking