At the bend in the cobbled streets of Montmartre, where painters set up their easels on the Place du Tertre, a façade catches the eye: that of La Crémaillère 1900. Behind its green wood panelling and delicately patterned stained glass windows, this century-old brasserie perpetuates the spirit of bohemian Montmartre. It’s a place where you come for a drink, dine on the terrace, listen to the piano… and, why not, follow in the footsteps of a French chanson legend.
A pillar of Montmartre history
Before becoming a brasserie, La Crémaillère was a bookshop and a creamery. It sold milk and cheese, from which it takes its name.
In 1926, Charles and Antoine Marino transformed the place into a festive establishment. At the time, Montmartre was still a village within the city. Artists flocked here, cabarets vied with each other, and the cafés of Paris became rallying points for painters, writers and musicians. La Crémaillère quickly established itself as a must-visit address, both convivial and elegant.
La Crémaillère: a jewel of Art Nouveau in Paris
The Marino brothers took great care to preserve the original beams and woodwork. Some of the murals, inspired by Alphonse Mucha, and the Belle Époque lighting fixtures are still visible today. This treasure was saved in extremis during successive renovations. To the rear is a private garden: irregular cobblestones, century-old chestnut trees, a Wallace fountain, rattan chairs… If Place du Tertre has its charm, this little secret corner, often ignored by hurried visitors, looks even more like a film set.
In a Paris where Art Nouveau is often discovered in museums or behind the windows of listed buildings, La Crémaillère offers a lively yet timeless experience.
An unexpected springboard for a future star
But the story of La Crémaillère is not just architectural, it’s also musical. In the 1960s, a young blond man with white glasses stepped onto the small stage of the Montmartre cabaret. It was Michel Polnareff! Long before “La poupée qui fait non”, he was testing his songs before an audience of Montmartre residents, penniless painters and curious tourists.
Traditional French cuisine in a place that lives with the times
In 1987, the establishment was taken over by Henri Boulard, a passionate chef who became its owner. He perpetuates the original spirit while modernizing the menu and focusing on musical entertainment.
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Today, La Crémaillère 1900 offers traditional French cuisine with contemporary touches. Classics include onion soup au gratin and roast Camembert with truffle oil. On the main course, boeuf bourguignon and duck leg also delight gourmets. As for the atmosphere, it remains true to the image of a lively, welcoming Montmartre. The waiters wear black aprons and the laughter from the terrace mingles with the melodies of the piano. Did you say bohemian?
La Crémaillère 1900: practical info
📌 Address: 15 Place du Tertre, 75018 Paris.
⏱️ Opening hours: open daily from 8am to midnight
🚇 Transportation: just a stone’s throw from Sacré-Cœur, served by the Anvers (line 2) or Abbesses (line 12) metros. The funicular makes it easy to climb.
Dining and Cooking