Open the door, stamped with Cane Pazzo’s bulldog logo, to find a bar pouring drinks with bourbon, lemon and a splash of Italian red wine — that’s A Horse with No Name ($14), a refreshing nod to a New York sour. Other cocktails blend tequila with blood orange; gin with amaro, lemon and honey.
Wine, selected by Ariana, is served by the glass, bottle or quartino — a small carafe — in the bar area and through a large archway in the adjacent dining room, decorated in rustic light browns and dark greens.
Tunes ranging from jazz to Billy Joel sound from the speakers as groups slide into a long copper-colored banquette that runs the length of the room beneath a wall of family photos. Pairs peruse stock paper menus split into four sections: appetizers, pastas, proteins and sides.
Tantalizing aromas and an intense heat drift from Cane Pazzo’s open kitchen to the dining room, whose elegance might catch you by surprise. The food more than matches the energetic enclave, whose noise level rises significantly during peak dinner hours.
It’s hard to blame diners for speaking loudly, for the menu, which at times strays from standard Italian or Italian-American fare, leaves room for plenty of discussion.
Bolchoz isn’t afraid to experiment, within reason, utilizing cuts like fish collar and vegetables not typically found in Italian cuisine. There are also plenty of classic appetizers and entrees for those weary of stepping too far outside of the box.
Servers well-versed in the selections will likely recommend starting with the sourdough bread ($8). Toasted until its crust crackles and center steams, the circular slice is topped with butter infused with Calabrian chilis and honey. Smoky, sweet and spicy flavors emerge, the texture reminiscent of pizza dough. If you can, save a piece for the sauces that await.
Guests can keep small and large plates to themselves or share with the group. I suggest the latter, for you’ll likely want to sample each of the handmade pastas.
Dining and Cooking