Osteria del Proconsolo is a typical Tuscan restaurant in the historic center of Florence, where you can eat Florentine cuisine and savor excellent wines.
Osteria del Proconsolo, Tuscan cuisine just steps from Brunelleschi’s Dome
DIn the series: TuscanyPeople never stops recommending only the best of Tuscany to its readers. Today we visit theProconsolo Inn in Florence, in the street of the same name two steps from the Duomo.
On the road to the Osteria del Proconsolo
The Bargello
A sultry late July eveningComing from Signoria Square, we emerge in Piazza San Firenze, where the mighty mass of the BargelloThe term sheriff derives from medieval Latin barigildus, a word of Lombard origin meaning “fortified tower” or “castle”, one of the most beautiful buildings of this city, never sufficiently celebrated compared to other more famous monuments.
The first nucleus, already started in 1255, overlooking Via del Proconsolo, our destination today, from the seat of the Captain of the People It also became the seat of the podestà and the council of the Elders. With the establishment of the Medici hegemony, then, in the second mid-fifteenth century, first became the seat of the Council of Justice and Judges of the Wheel, therefore, from 1574, under the Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici, seat of the Bargello, or the head of the Guards or of the Piazza, who carried out arrests, interrogations and carried out capital sentences.
In short, a prison with all the trimmings, which is now a beautiful museum dedicated to sculpture, which boasts a collection of Renaissance statues by artists of the calibre of Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati, just to name a few, and is considered one of the most interesting in the world.
The Proconsul
Left the Bargello behind, a couple of hundred meters later we arrive on the opposite side of the road, at the red 59 of Proconsolo Street, which also gives its name to our tavern. Yes, but why this? strange term, Proconsul, which means little to us moderns? Who was the Proconsul? It’s soon said, it was the head of the Guild of Judges and Notaries, which in the Florentine Republic He later became the head of all the major and minor Arts, second only to the Gonfaloniere of Justice. And since the palace of theArt of Judges and Notaries It is located right on this street, at number 6, as can be read in an epigraph dated 1878, hence the mystery.
👉 Read also: The Higher Art of Judges and Notaries: Wisdom and Prestige at the Service of Florence
Osteria del Proconsolo, an excellent restaurant just steps from Florence Cathedral.
We stop on the threshold of theProconsolo Inn and we are immediately welcomed by Gaetano, who tells us that the tavern has been open since 1969.
The warm embrace of the Osteria
We look around, the interior is very pleasant, characteristic, with a large mezzanine which in fact creates a second, classical level room very suitable for groups who want to celebrate something while remaining private. Between the upper and lower levels, there are about seventy good places. Tables with red and white checked placemat, straw-seated wooden chairs, wooden counter with large bottles of wine on display, hams, garlic, chillies, hanging above, a delight.
Looking up at the mezzanine, two wagon wheels, the gonfalon with the lily of Florence, hanging plants, the Italian flag on the left and the green one with TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence, on the right, waving proudly in the recirculating air conditioning that we cling to with relief. All wrapped up in thevery fitting orange with which the walls are whitewashed. They receive the Trip Advisor Certificate of Excellence every year, People here are happy and have good memoriesRomantic place, very popular with couples.
Tuscan tradition at the table: from the cellar to the kitchen
Tano explains to us that here the cuisine is typical Tuscan – we had no doubts – based on the product quality of our region. However, we must not fall into error, this is aa highly respectable Florentine tavern, not specifically for tourists, in fact the clientele is divided more or less evenly between locals and “outsiders”.
The flagship dishes of the Osteria del Proconsolo are the pappardelle with wild boar, i Norcina-style pici – with truffle cream and sausage -, the local strozzapreti – that is, a cart with salted ricotta on top – and then, obviously, thebraised veal, the steak, The thread, ça va sans dire. But if one prefers to escape from the region, one can have various fish starters, or maybe the Roman carbonara.
Of their wine cellar Let’s talk to Darko. Let’s start from the bottom, the house wine, a Chianti bottled for the Osteria, produced in Tavernelle Val di Pesa. But then we go up with the classic Chiantis of Ruffino, Of Antinori, Of Frescobaldi, such as, for example, the Chianti Rufina DOCG Nipozzano Reserve. And again, Morellino, Bolgheri (Baia al Vento type from the Campo al Mare Estate in Folonari), Noble and many Brunello (including Terre Nere, Greppone Mazzi by Ruffino and Castel Giocondo by Frescobaldi). And of Tignanello, for example, isn’t there any mention of it? Of course there is, he’s not missing either. In short, a wine cellar that pairs perfectly with the dishes they offer, no question about it.
And whoever instead wants to opt, God forbid, on non-Tuscan winesIs there any chance? Yes, Amarone, Barolo, Barbaresco, etc. But what does it matter? No.we are TuscanyPeople, right? And a little bit of healthy parochialism it’s needed. Come on.
Eating outdoors in the heart of Florence
Let’s go out and opt for a outdoor tableYes, because in addition to the seventy seats inside, on the other side of the street, in front of the austere building of the Anthropological Museum, behind a wooden trellis, under large cream umbrellas, others stretch out 25 seats which on a late July evening appear irresistibly attractive.
First courses and the choice of wines
The affable one waitress of the Osteria del Proconsolo, takes our orders for the first courses. Tommaso chooses a Chianina carpaccio with parmesan and rocket, I’m a classic of classics, the Florentine one tomato soup, a dish as poor as it is good, made with homemade Tuscan bread stale, tomatoes, vegetable broth, garlic cloves, basil, Tuscan extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to taste.
As for wine we order a Nipozzano Reserve 2016 – 90% Sangiovese, while the remaining 10% divided between Malvasia Nera, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot.
We wait very little and the bread arrives together with a delicious little cow to temporarily block our hunger: excellent cooking, excellent consistency, neither too crunchy (it is not, nor should it be, carasau bread) nor too soft.
Shortly after, here are the first ones. The Chianina carpaccio It looks very original: on an oval wooden tray, three rolls in which the meat wraps the rocket and parmesan. Excellent, tasty, slightly spicy, well-marinated Chianina slices.
As far as the tomato soup, she also shows an interesting look, presented on a large white ceramic plate, inside a “bread basket” which surrounds it all like a fortified citadel guarding a precious content. A beautiful compositionIt’s almost a shame to eat it. But hunger doesn’t give any concessions. I must say that it’s not too dense, nor too liquid, or, as we would say in Florence, “squacquera”. Right consistency. Excellent flavor and cooking level.
Meanwhile the Nipozzano Reserve 2016 It opens with all its power. On the nose, it’s floral, with clear notes of violet and fruit, followed by berries and black cherry, a hint of licorice, and spicy notes of pepper and nutmeg. On the palate, it opens warmly, tannic, and consistent, with good body and a long finish.
The second courses of the Osteria del Proconsolo
It’s time for second courses at the Osteria del Proconsolo. I choose theFlorentine ossobuco, so, hard and pure, without compromise, while Tommaso opts for a Chianina filletAs a side dish, baked potatoes for both of us. Let’s see how it goes.
Okay. My ossobuco arrives shortly after looking very similar to the tomato soup: on a round wooden tray, inside a bread basket, with the addition, however, to the side, of a wooden cup full of salt, and a garland of allegorical cherry tomatoes.
While the Tommaso’s Chianina fillet It comes on a round wooden tray like mine, along with scattered cherry tomatoes and a sprig of rosemary.
I have to say that my braised veal It’s excellent, both in flavor and texture, and in the tomato that surrounds it, not to mention the marrow, a delicacy that connoisseurs leave at the end like a dessert. But also the Chianina fillet Tommaso’s is ok, both in the goodness of the meat that in cooking, although our opinions differ on the consistency.
Final coffee, and we’re done. And so this one goes too. beautiful experience at the Osteria del Proconsolo, typical storydoing in progress, which always remains our favorite way of telling.
👉 Read also: La Bistecca – Osteria Fiorentina in Piazza della Repubblica: a modern look with an ancient heart
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