Cynar (pronounced “chee-nar”) gets its name from cynarin, a bitter compound that’s extracted from artichoke leaves. The aperitif was invented in 1952 in Padua, Italy, and its comically grandiose tagline, “Cynar, against the attrition of modern life,” invites drinkers to slow down: The herbal, bitter complexity punches your tastebuds at first and then mellows into a sweet sigh of relief.
On those hot afternoons in Siena, loud from the white noise of the cicadas, Cynar marked a distinct moment of pause in my otherwise chaotic day of waiting tables. Somehow, it does the same after I’ve spent hours working from my laptop in my New York City apartment.
Cynar and tonic to accompany a pre-dinner poker game. Gemmarosa Ryan/NYT Wirecutter
Cynar is one more-modern example of a long tradition of Italian amari, bittersweet, herbal liqueurs that all have distinctive flavor profiles and sometimes tout positive effects on health and digestion.
Amari have a wide range of flavors that are dependent on the flora of their region. Sicilian amari have warmer, citrus-forward notes, while Alpine amari feature notes of licorice and menthol. Cynar, from Italy’s north coast, falls on the earthier, more vegetal side.
When amari were first produced in Italian monasteries and pharmacies during the 19th century, they were sold as medicinal tonics. To this day, amari are still marketed as appetite-stimulating, stomach-soothing digestive aids.
Although these claims may be overblown (and research results are vague), amari with lower alcohol content are still frequently enjoyed before meals as aperitifs, while those with higher alcohol by volume tend to be enjoyed after as digestifs. With its 16.5% ABV, Cynar is often used by bartenders in both contexts.
As a huge fan of the placebo effect, I like to believe Cynar has curative properties. I picture the herbaceous concoction attacking the cholesterol in my bloodstream after a traditionally lard- and carb-heavy Tuscan meal. (Your mileage may vary.)
Cynar served on the rocks and mixed with soda. Gemmarosa Ryan/NYT Wirecutter
While the artichoke is Cynar’s aesthetic marker, the drink doesn’t explicitly taste like it, so disliking artichokes doesn’t automatically mean you’ll dislike Cynar. The best way to describe it would be caramelized, vegetal, and, yes, a little bitter. Cynar would go over well with lovers of a honey-based dressing over an endive or radicchio salad (generally those who’d rather not admit to themselves they enjoy the sweeter things in life).
To better understand what kind of person, similar to myself, would opt for Cynar over other amari, I organized a happy hour with some of my Wirecutter co-workers. As the workday drew to a close, I poured us samples of Cynar alongside a few other bitter liquors, such as Aperol, Campari, and the Brooklyn-made, artichoke-based Faccia Brutto Carciofo.
While some enjoyed the dark sweetness and bracing bitterness of Cynar neat, I think the drink is more accessible and less abrasive when served on the rocks. “I’m surprised by how much it changes over ice,” said one tester, agreeing with my undisclosed opinion. They noted that while the ice helped mellow out the amaro, it didn’t take away from its complexity. Its caramel flavor can be likened to Coca-Cola, and over soda or tonic, it’s a more grown-up swap for the classic soda pop.
Cynar was well received when swapped into classic Campari cocktails like a Negroni, but it didn’t get as high of a mark as the replacement for Aperol in a spritz. The tasting also affirmed that each amaro has a distinct flavor profile — even Faccia Brutto Carciofo, which, while similarly artichoke-based, tasted much more of warm spices and pepper. Swapping Cynar into any amaro-based drink changes it fairly significantly because Cynar has a much juicier profile, and it adds a pronouncedly well-integrated sweetness.
After a dinner party, I like to serve Cynar neat or on the rocks along with a scoop (or two) of ice cream. Gemmarosa Ryan/NYT Wirecutter
I love the ritual of Cynar and its amari cousins. In Italy, before radios and television were common in homes, people would convene in bars and share a glass. Enjoying Cynar allows me to incorporate these rites into my own life: relaxing after work with a Cynar and soda, celebrating a friend’s accomplishments with a Cyn-Cyn Negroni, or winding down after one of those family dinners with Cynar on the rocks.
Every amaro has its own fingerprint, and half the beauty of drinking amari is finding one whose unique personality fits your own. It took me a few tries to open up to Cynar. But much like the artichoke reminds us, if you pry open the tough leaves of a first impression, you may find a tender heart just waiting to be your next obsession.
This article was edited by Marilyn Ong and Megan Beauchamp.
Further reading
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