Huge. Overwhelming. Absolutely freezing. These were Julia Sedefdjian’s less-than-stellar first impressions of Paris after moving from her sunbaked hometown of Nice for her first apprenticeship at age 17. With a wry smile she recalls, “Come early October, I was desperately calling my mom [who got her hooked on cooking along with her two Sicilian nonnas], begging for advice to cope. She was of zero help.”
Ultimately, Sedefdjian rallied, bringing the heat to the upscale seafood bistro Les Fables de la Fontaine, where at 21 she became the youngest chef ever to earn a MICHELIN Star. In 2018, she and two colleagues launched Baieta, an oasis of Provençal-Mediterranean comfort food, with a menu starting at a cheerful €60. Its moniker means “kiss” in her Niçard dialect.
Scallops with Mediterranean touches and the navy banquettes inside the restaurant. (L) ©TheTravelBuds__PresseBaieta. (R) ©Roch Debache
With Nina Simone’s “Feeling Good” plinking softly in the background, a jovial Sedefdjian, now 31, reflects proudly on her unique experience as a MICHELIN-Star rookie. It will undoubtedly be a highlight in her upcoming cookbook, which will blend recipes and stories. “Initially, it was an enormous amount of pressure, and I wasn’t ready, but over time, the Star has become a positive pressure for my team and me. But I don’t lose sleep at night over The MICHELIN Guide. That isn’t the point.”
Instead, Sedefdjian’s free time now focuses on sparking her 4-year-old son’s curiosity and supporting causes close to her heart, such as teaching underprivileged high school students basic culinary skills every month or helping vulnerable women or refugees. She’s also been binge-watching the fourth season of The Bear, the hit series about family, hard work and the chaotic beauty of the kitchen. “Food is an international language, so although it’s American, I think it’s a must-watch for people in this industry everywhere,” she says. “It brilliantly illustrates how passion can push you to the brink, something we all face at some point in our careers.”
A colourful seasonal dish at One-Star restaurant Baieta in Paris and Chef Julia Sedefdjian at work in her kitchen. (L) ©Roch Rebache. (R) ©Baieta
Sedefdjian has also been reconciling with Paris — which she once found so daunting — as evidenced by the addresses below.
Did you specifically open Baieta in the 5th arrondissement because it’s known for being one of Paris’ most food-centric neighborhoods?
[Laughs] No, it was a pure coincidence. I’m from Nice, and my business partners are from Martinique. We spent six years working in a cave in the 7th arrondissement. So we had no clue!
Just a minute away, there’s Alliance, another Star-rated restaurant that welcomed us with open arms. Unlike Baieta, it upholds the standards and codes of a MICHELIN establishment, which I appreciate. I love its minimalist design and Toshi’s subtle cooking, especially the signature dish with dinky Alliance potatoes.
Up the road, there’s also Le Boulanger de la Tour. We have a tradition where every Saturday we pick up some viennoiseries from La Tour for our team lunch. I usually go for a simple croissant — those guys know how to make a killer pâte feuilletée.
If you’re looking for a nightcap instead of breakfast, go to 1802, the city’s largest rum bar located in the Hotel Monte Cristo. The bartender encourages you to handle samples of materials like wood, ceramic or glass so they can create a cocktail inspired by what you’re most drawn to. My first choice was wood, but I also tried the others.
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Baieta restaurant interior with its terracotta walls and cod steak with shellfish, Sardinian fregola, olives, artichoke, and a cloud of garlic confit. © (L) Baieta/The Travel Buds (R) Roch Debache
OK, if budget is no object, where are we going for dinner?
In a Parisian palace, of course! I love the George V — the first palace I ever visited. Back then, I’d have a cocktail at the bar, feeling out of place but excited, because these places are awe-inspiring and historic. Now, Simone Zanoni’s Starred work at The George restaurant resonates with my Italian side [Julia is also Armenian on her father’s side]. I sometimes daydream of being a palace chef, but not in Paris; it would be back home in the south, somewhere like the Negresco.
A child-friendly restaurant you’d recommend?
That’s a tough one. Probably Le Petit Panisse, which is named after one of my favorite southern treats, although nothing on the menu is actually from that region. However, it more than makes up for that by offering great value for money, especially with the weekly set menu. Last time, I had a pork dish with apricot ketchup, followed by panna cotta topped with nuts, olive oil and fleur de sel. An absolute banger!
My son is going through a lychee juice phase, so we often visit Petit Bao, which serves food on metal platters ideal for kids. He’s becoming a picky eater, but has loved cooking ever since he was 1. I keep telling him that he cannot make a living doing it, but no sooner is he here at Baieta than he says, “Mamoun, time to go into the kitchen.” He has two moms — I’m Mamoun, and she’s Maman.
[Sedefdjian shares a brief video of a tiny toddler rather masterfully whipping up scrambled eggs in a pan.]
Based on that video, you have some cool cooking gadgets in your kitchen. Where do you get them from?
I’m obsessed with Kama-asa, which specializes in Japanese-style utensils. I want to bring everything home with me. Last time, I bought a small charcoal stove and some stainless-steel tweezers for plating and decorating, with a built-in spoon. What a find! Yes, I’m a geek.
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Baieta, a One-Star spot in the heart of Paris, serving stellar Provençal-Mediterranean cuisine. © Roch Debache
Where do you take a breather?
I tend to lean toward cozy, soulful places with friends. In my neighborhood, Charonne, there’s The Bluebird, which serves top-notch cocktails and has quirky nautical decor. If I finish work early, I might have a drink alone at Notre Dame Musique Bar, an audiophile bar adorned with vinyl records. Music is vital: It’s always playing at Baieta, from Queen B to zouk, compas, and jazz. When I play gritty Etta James in the morning, the brigade sometimes shakes their heads, saying, “No, Chef, that’s not the mood today.”
Where do self-respecting culinary geeks get their cookbooks?
I often visit La Librairie Gourmande, where Deborah offers sound advice. My favorite cookbook is Imprégnation by Anne-Sophie Pic. She exudes such humility and presence. I’m such a fangirl. When she talks about her cooking, it’s deceptively simple, but there’s a reason she has those three Stars!
Finally, what does Paris taste like?
[Pauses briefly] A grain of salt — because I believe that this city always offers you that little something extra.
Words by Marie-Noëlle Bauer.
Hero image: Julia Sedefdjian is the Chef-Owner of One-MICHELIN-Star restaurant Baieta in Paris. ©Roch Debache/Baieta
Written by
The MICHELIN Guide
Dining and Cooking