Hiya Yakko is served at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Different types of nigiri at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
The interior of MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Toro Taku hand roll is served at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Kuro Buta skewers are served at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Yuki Nomura, MaruJun’s manager, serves customers at the San Rafael restaurant. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Deep-fried Potato Croquettes are served at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
Kuro Buta Shabu on the stove at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
The exterior of MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
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Hiya Yakko is served at MaruJun in San Rafael. (Sherry LaVars/Marin Independent Journal)
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We parked in front, left the noisy traffic behind us and entered the serenity of MaruJun.
The owner, Novato chef Jun Takeda, spent three decades at Sushi to Dai For in San Rafael before opening his own spot in April in a strip mall on San Rafael’s Miracle Mile. With its minimalist décor, seating for 27 at tables and along the sushi bar, and comfortable chairs, our pleasant experience began as soon as we were shown to our table and were seated.
Takeda has chosen not to offer sushi rolls on his menu. Instead, the place represents a sushi shop with ko-ryouri, an enticing array of small dishes, nigiri, sashimi and hand rolls designed to be intriguing and memorable. With Takeda’s choice of the finest local and imported ingredients plus his expertise utilizing them, MaruJun lives up to his design.
We began by ordering one of the items under otsumami, or finger food. Technically, the Hiya Yakko ($7) would have been a bit messy if we had attacked it with our fingers. A good-sized block of regular-textured tofu sat in shallow dashi broth. It was showered with bonito flakes and curls of green scallions and scented with Japanese ginger. We each ordered a beer, Suntory The Premium Malt’s draft beer ($10) and a bottle of Orion ($9), and both the Japanese beers and the tofu were a good entrance to our meal.
The drinks menu also offers sake ($7 to $186), wine ($10 to $83) and a couple of shochu-based cocktails ($13), plus interesting flavored carbonated soft drinks like the Moshi Yuzu Sparkling ($7).
That evening’s Croquette ($20) had a squid filling. Two golden balls with potato and minced squid tentacle filling were nestled on top of a small amount of braised cabbage in an oversized gray speckled bowl, glistening with a sweetish dark sauce. The flavors were good, but the texture threw me off. I expected something firmer.
There were several grilled skewers ($10 to $17 for two skewers). We ordered the Kuro Buta, black pork belly ($14), and Gyutan-Ni, cooked beef tongue ($17). Both orders were served on charcoal gray rectangular plates with a little corner area cordoned off for the sauces. The pork belly was served with a red miso jam that was slightly spicy and delicious with the sweetness of the pork.
The tongue was tender and true to flavor with a bit of a sweet sauce to the side and a scattering of rings of green scallions. I would have gladly ordered more of both.
The two hand rolls we ordered arrived full of ingredients and tightly packed. I really appreciate this style since when the rolls are loose, they tend to spew forth their fillings. The Queen ($16) was filled with unagi, hamachi, rice and another variation of a sweet sauce. Toro Taku ($19) with its chopped tuna belly, shiso and oshinko punched with flavor. The tantalizing flavor of the shiso leaves and pointed hit of the pickled vegetables carried this hand roll to perfection. Oh, I forgot to mention the tuna was really good, too!
As we moved toward our nigiri course, we ordered the Kawabe ($9 for a 4-ounce glass) and Amabuki ($8 for a 3-ounce glass) to pair with it. The Amabuki, an unpasteurized sake, had vibrant acidity and a clean crispness. I particularly enjoyed the Kawabe, a rice shochu that was full of umami flavors. There were three wines from Japanese winemaker Nori Nakamura: a sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and a pinot noir made from Sonoma County grapes.
Nigiri and sashimi are listed together on the menu; an order is two pieces of nigiri and six bite-sized sashimi. The Saba Nigiri, Spanish mackerel ($15), was lightly cured with seaweed and vinegar and topped with sweet ginger. The mackerel was beautifully cut, emphasizing its variegated coloring. It was tangy and rich.
We had been given a sheet of the day’s specials along with the standard menu. I don’t usually write about the specials since they might not be available when you go to MaruJun, but I encourage you to go soon to have this dish: Ensui Aka Uni Nigiri ($15 for one piece). Premium fresh sea urchin from Japan, wrapped in seaweed, was perched on a dark gray plate with a golden halo of uni mounded on top. The amazingly creamy, fresh taste of the sea burst on my palate. What a high note to complete our meal.
Of course there are desserts on offer: Green Tea Ice Cream ($9), Strawberry Ice Cream ($8) and Burnt Basque Cheesecake ($10) for those who must end a meal with a little something sweet.
At MaruJun, there was no need to wait for a sweet moment at the end of the meal. Both the female servers had been treating us sweetly and professionally throughout our meal.
Maru translates as “circle” or “round.” I don’t know Takeda’s intention in choosing this name, but the word applied nicely to this diner’s experience of a complete circle of dining pleasure.
Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.
MaruJun Japanese Cuisine
Address: 2224 Fourth St., San Rafael
Phone: 415-785-3739
Website: marujun-sr.com
Cuisine: Japanese
Noise level: Comfortable
Liquor selection: Sake, wine, beer, shochu cocktails
Vegetarian dishes: Limited
Vegan dishes: Limited
Gluten-free dishes: Yes
Dog-friendly: Service dogs
Reservations: Through website
Parking: Lot and street
Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays; 5 to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; closed Mondays and Tuesdays
Prices: $9 to $52
Summary: Japanese small plates, nigiri and sashimi professionally served in a comfortable environment
Dining and Cooking