Have we finally turned the corner and entered summer? Let’s hope June’s gloom is behind us and barbecue season upon us. For me, half of the pleasure of a great barbecue is the drinks. While I have focused my first articles for The Coast on food and restaurants, my true expertise is the liquid on the table.
While rosés and whites often steal the warm-weather spotlight, I am going to make a case (pun intended) for red. Yes, red wine in summer. Not the brooding, oak-laden kind meant for fireplaces and stews. I am talking about bright, juicy reds — wines with freshness, energy, and a little chill-worthiness. In the past, I am guilty of eschewing local reds, citing their lack of ripeness, but over the years what was the weakness of our industry is becoming a strength as producers focus on red wine styles that work in our climate. I also believe many Italian red wines deliver the balance of freshness and energy that makes them the perfect red wines for summer al fresco entertaining.
Here at home, our cool climate has traditionally lent itself to crisp whites, such as Tidal Bay, and méthode classique bubbles, but wineries are getting creative — and successful — with reds. Enter Fauna by Lightfoot & Wolfville, a vibrant blend of Marquette, Marechal Foch, and Pinot Noir. It’s a wine that doesn’t pretend to be big and burly. Instead, it embraces freshness and drinkability with tart cherry, wild strawberry, and subtle herbal notes. It’s the kind of wine that practically begs to be paired with grilled pork tenderloin or grilled pizza topped with mushrooms and goat cheese.
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Nova Scotia red wines have found a place at summer al fresco occasions according to The Coast’s Mark DeWolf.
Then there’s Wild Rock from Benjamin Bridge — Nova Scotia’s icon winery that continues to innovate. Their Wild Rock is a red crafted with minimal intervention and lots of personality. It’s juicy and expressive, with a subtle rustic edge that makes it perfect for barbecued lamb or even grilled vegetarian fare. Serve it cool, almost like a Beaujolais, and you’ll find it becomes a staple for summer evenings when the sun lingers late, and the grill never quite cools down. I also love that it comes in both bottle and bag-in-box option. Throw a bottle into a cooler or put the bag-in-the-box version in the fridge 20 minutes before guests arrive and let them serve themselves a slightly chilled version of this refreshing red.
If you’re reaching for an international bottle, look to Italy — a country whose reds have been shaped by generations of warm-weather drinking. In the north, wines made from varietals such as Barbera (Piedmont), Dolcetto (Piedmont), Teroldego (Alto Adige), and others offer fruit forward flavour with soft tannins and a fresh, zippy acidity. They shine slightly chilled and make perfect partners for antipasti, grilled sausage, or herb-marinated chicken. Of course, if you are looking for a little splurge, think Barbaresco with its mix of berry, tar, spice flavours and lingering acidity and tannins.
In Emilia Romagna, a region of Italy known for its food culture, the local star is Lambrusco. Lambrusco is both a varietal and style of wine, most commonly associated with frizzante (lightly sparkling) reds that in the past were sweet-edged but increasingly are made in dry or slightly off-dry styles. There’s little more refreshing than a glass of chilled dry Lambrusco paired with a summer charcuterie board.
Further south, Frappato from Sicily delivers a floral, red berry-infused wine that feels like a summer breeze in a bottle. Light in body, yet full of character, Frappato is ideal with charred vegetables, tuna steaks, or even cold roast chicken — picnic food, elevated. Also in Sicily, the reds of Etna Rosso, made from Nerello Cappucio and Nerello Mascalese deliver cherry, herb, and earthy flavours on a medium-bodied palate framed by zippy acidity and fine tannins. Give me a warm afternoon of slightly chilled Etna Rosso and some grilled sausages and call me happy.
And let’s not forget Sangiovese (Italy’s most planted grape varietal) and the wines of Chianti Classico. While some examples of Chianti Classico can be burly, look for producers who lean into elegance and freshness. Wines with a higher percentage of Sangiovese and less oak aging have a sour cherry tang, fine tannins, and a savoury edge that pairs brilliantly with grilled steak, drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with rosemary.
Summer red wine isn’t about power. It’s about energy. Whether you’re pouring local heroes like Fauna or Wild Rock, or Italian classics with an edge, the goal is the same: wines that elevate the food and the moment. So go ahead, put your reds on ice for 20 minutes before serving. Fire up the grill. And raise a glass to a season where red wine finally gets its time in the sun.
Mark’s Picks:
Lightfoot & Wolfville Fauna (Winery, NSLC, Bishop’s Cellar, Harvest, $23.76-$26.49)
Benjamin Bridge Wild Rock Red (3 litres, Winery, NSLC, $54.99)
Chiarli Vecchi Lambrusco (Bishop’s Cellar, $22)
Tornatore Etna Rosso (Bishop’s Cellar, $39.01)
Terrescure Bernadeschi Governo (Harvest, $35.98)
Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico (Harvest, $37.99)
La Spinona ‘Bricco Fasset’ Barbaresco (Harvest, $100)
Dining and Cooking