new wines amid the onslaught of vineyard fires

The Northern hemisphere vine harvest is in full swing as you read this and once again the world’s warming climate is playing havoc.

There have been devastating wildfires in Napa, Galicia and throughout the Languedoc in recent weeks.

I spoke to Neasa and Laurent Miquel who have a number of vineyards in the Languedoc.

Neasa tells me that the region is still reeling from the August wildfire that destroyed over 17,000 hectares in Corbières.

Vineyards act as firebreaks which was good news for houses, but less good for vineyard owners who will likely have smoke damage to their grapes.

Recent uprooting of vineyards meant that the fires burned further than expected.

Given the warm weather in France, picking began in a number of French regions in early-mid August; the Miquel’s Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño harvest began on August 12 (Laurent Miquel make an excellent Albariño).

The white harvest will be well down in the Languedoc (and the Gers), Neasa told me, but reds have done well with quality and volumes at Cazal Viel (their flagship estate) very good.

The old vines at Saint Blaise (rosé recommended below) did well, those old guys are likely used to weird weather.

In general terms, the French wine harvest is likely to be up 17% on 2024 (according to Decanter) thanks to a largely dry summer.

The Bordelais and Champenois are happy, the Burgundians a little less so. Italy has had drought problems all over but should have a similar crop to 2024 and Spain will be up a few percent.

Suggestions this week are a Miquel Rosé, a Pfalz Pinot and a new Slovenian wine in Aldi’s Autumn range; all three are debutantes here.

Besides the Aldi wines mentioned below, I also liked the dark fruits the 2022 Cairanne (€12) and the blackberry and dark cherry notes in the 2021 Ch. Les Trois Manoirs Médoc.

Sonce Pinot Grigio/Sauvignon Blanc, Slovenia, €11.99

Aldi

This is new in Aldi this week: I’m pleased to see them looking to countries like Slovenia for their new range (there’s also a ‘love it or hate it’ smoky Moldovan Rarã Neagrã for €9).

I also liked the Cigales Rosado (€12), Austrian Orange (€12) and Petit Poulet white (€9).

Sonce, meanwhile, is floral and lemony, with lime essence and some weight, with a crisp finish.

Laurent Miquel Domaine St-Blaise Organic Rosé, Pays d’Oc, France, €11

Tesco

A joint project between an old neighbour of the Miquels and Laurent, made from organic grapes grown just below Cazal Viel (the excellent flagship L. Miquel wine).

From Marselan (50%) plus Syrah and some Rolle (Vermentino) for added freshness.

Pale pink hue, berry and citrus aromas, crisp and fruity with floral raspberry notes and a pleasing zingy finish.

Normally €15, €11 with Clubcard.
Peter & Peter Pinot Noir 2022, Pfalz, Germany €15

Peter & Peter Pinot Noir 2022, Pfalz, Germany €15

No. 21; Off-The-Bridge Carrick; Fine Wines outlets (FineWines.ie); Independents.

German pinot noir (especially from Pfalz and Baden) almost always punches above its weight and this is no exception.

Cherry fruit aromas with a leafy forest-floor touch, bright and juicy with a touch of spice and texture and a tangy berry-skin finish.

Nicely suited to September weather, also watch for Fritz Wassmer and Martin Wassmer Pinots from Baden (brothers with competing wineries).

Spirit of the Week

The Whistler Whiskey & Honey Liqueur, 33% ABV, 700ml, €37

Celtic Whiskey; Molloys; Dublin & Cork Airport; Independents; boanndistillery.ie

This is a delightful blend of honey from the Cooney family hives with Whistler whiskey and has already won gold medals.

Matured in ex-Bourbon and ex-Sherry casks, it pours pale gold with creamy caramel aromas jumping from the glass.

Sweet toffee on first sip with whiskey and spice notes following and a light peppery finish. Delicious.