For the curious imbiber, there’s nothing as exciting as discovering a new favourite wine, wine region or grape variety. And as wine-producing countries go, there’s no better country to venture off the beaten track than Italy.
Fun and fizzy bubblies from the Prosecco region are wildly popular, as are crowd-pleasing Pinot Grigios from Veneto, reds from Chianti made from the Sangiovese grape and red blends from the Valpolicella region — all fun, user-friendly, widely available and, relatively speaking, decently priced.
Beyond those categories, Liquor Marts have seemingly started ramping up and fine-tuning their selection of Italian wines, while most private wine stores in the city have long offered a plethora of lesser-known Italian vino — thanks in part to a robust population of locals with Italian backgrounds, including store owners of some of Winnipeg’s eight private shops.
From north to south, the boot-shaped European country offers plenty of compelling, food-friendly wines to discover, whether the grape/region is known to you or not. Here are five new/new-to-me Italian wines tried and enjoyed recently, listed roughly from lightest to heaviest…
Luigi Baudana 2023 “Dragon” Bianco (Langhe, Italy — $26.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
A blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Nascetta and Riesling grapes grown, planted and harvested together in the Langhe region of the northern Italian Piedmont appellation, this white is medium straw in colour and aromatically brings melon rind, pear, honeysuckle, sweet lemon and red apple skin notes. It’s light-plus bodied, dry and viscous, with complex pear, honeysuckle, peach skin, melon and red apple flavours coming with an almost-saline chalkiness, no discernible wood influence and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a touch of warmth on the finish. Delicious — try on its own or with mild cheeses, shellfish or pasta in a cream sauce. 4.5/5
Menicucci 2023 “Ginesia” Passerina (Terre di Chieti, Italy — around $27, Calabria Market)
The organic Passerina grapes for this Italian white were sourced from the Terre di Chieti region within the Abruzzo region in central-eastern Italy. Pale gold in colour, it offers lovely pear, red apple seed and ripe lemon notes with secondary herbal and nut notes. Like the Dragon, it’s dry, light-plus bodied and viscous, but leads with peach, red apple and lemon notes which are then followed by pear and chalky notes and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a moderate finish. Would work well with fresh salads or antipasto. Available at Calabria Market. 4/5
Luccarelli 2024 Primitivo (Puglia, Italy — $16.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
The southern Puglia region — located on the heel of Italy’s boot, if you will — is the source for the grapes for this cheerful red. It’s bright purple in appearance and aromatically brings ripe blackberry and plum along with cocoa and a slight raisined note. The medium-bodied Luccarelli is dry but quite ripe, with loads of almost-plush dark berry flavours, secondary plum notes that come with cocoa and vanilla (the latter two from time in oak), medium acidity and modest tannins and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a finish that doesn’t overwhelm. Fans of American Zinfandel (same grape, different name) or even the plush, slightly sweet U.S. red blends will enjoy — try with medium-sharp cheeses, pizza or burgers. 3.5/5
Vigneti Costacurta 2022 “Tintaunita” Nebbiolo (Collini Novaresi, Italy — around $35, Jones & Company)
This northern Piedmontese red is made using the same grape variety as Barolo, although the Tintaunita is aged in stainless steel tanks (rather than oak barrels) for just six months before bottling. Bright cherry in colour, it brings spice, tar, red licorice, raspberry and light herbal and chalky aromas. It’s medium-bodied and dry, with a lovely core of tart raspberry, red licorice, white pepper and black tea, grippy tannins, medium acidity and, at 13.5 per cent alcohol, a warm finish. Fresh and lively, but with some complexity and elegance as well, and would delight with pasta in a red sauce, arancini or pizza. Available at Jones & Company. 4.5/5
Rocca Rindinaria 2022 “Rosa Munda” Barbera (Monferrato, Italy — around $25, Ellement Wine + Spirits)
Made from hand-picked, organic and biodynamic Barbera grapes grown in the northwestern region of Piedmont, this minimal-intervention (read: natural) red is deep ruby in colour and brings wild blackberry, plum, bread dough, tart blueberry and spice. It’s full-bodied and dry, with dense blue and black fruit coming with lively acidity, that hint of bread dough in the background, subtle white pepper and spice notes that come with medium-grippy tannins and, at 14.5 per cent alcohol, a warm kick on the finish. Drinking great right now, but would evolve nicely with another two to three years in the bottle. Try with milder beef dishes, osso buco or mushroom risotto. Available at Ellement Wine + Spirits. 4/5
uncorked@mts.net
@bensigurdson
Ben Sigurdson
Literary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press‘s literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press’s editing team before being posted online or published in print. It’s part of the Free Press‘s tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press’s history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber.
Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
Dining and Cooking