Americans tend to think of chardonnays as the heaviest white wines, since California versions tend to clock in at 14% alcohol or more, and because so many feature a layer of toasty oak flavor that gives them flavors of buttered toast or pecan pie. However, the chardonnay grape can make considerably lighter wines when it is grown in cooler climates — like that found in its native region of Burgundy, France. Fans of lighter, more understated white wines like pinot grigio or albariño should give French chardonnays a try.
Chardonnay takes its name from that of a tiny hamlet, located about halfway between Lyon and Dijon in a district of Burgundy known as the Maconnais. More famous wine towns to the north, like Meursault and Chassagne-Montrachet, make oakier wines of greater intensity that command top dollar and practically demand haute cuisine. Meanwhile, the Maconnais produces lighter, softer white wines that are far less expensive, like this gem from top vintner Louis Jadot.
Maconnais wines are also more flexible with food and more easygoing — just as happy with potato chips as they are with escargots. Those which are grown in region’s top 26 municipalities are entitled to use the superior appellation of Mâcon-Villages. Not all of these wines mention their grape, and none taste much like California’s take on chardonnay. Almost all are completely unoaked, meaning fermented and aged in stainless steel, and therefore taste lighter and brighter than what we’re used to from the hotter and drier Golden State. Lower ripeness at harvest in cooler, cloudier Burgundy is what leads this wine to contain less than 13% alcohol, proving that when you aim for understatement and refreshment, less really can be more.
Where California chardonnay tastes more like apple pie or butter pecan ice cream, French Macon-Villages wines like this one taste fresher and drier, with more tartness. They are as refreshing as a glass of iced chamomile tea on a hot day with subtle flavors of tree-ripened pear and blanched almonds.
Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages Chardonnay
12.6% ABV
Burgundy, France
PLCB Item #7206
Sale price $17.79 through Oct. 5 (regularly $19.79)
Also available at: Moorestown Super Buy Rite in Moorestown, N.J. ($14.99, moorestownbuyrite.com); Total Wine & More in Claymont, Del. ($15.49; totalwine.com); WineWorks in Marlton, N.J. ($15.98, wineworksonline.com).
Dining and Cooking