With so many good Mediterranean restaurants in the Philly area (and lots of sad meh-diterranean, ones, too), it’s easy to get hummus fatigue. But Li Beirut, a charming, family-owned Lebanese restaurant in Collingswood starts strong with its flavorful mezza (all of which are included in the $55 tasting menu). Of the mezza, the warm stuffed grape leaves, rich mouhamara, and crispy potatoes are standouts. If you’re dining a la carte, the fattoush and hummus get the job done, but aren’t required on the table. No matter how you order, the service is warm and generous—you’ll keep getting more pita whether you want them or not, and any mezza you don’t finish stay on the table to accompany the main dishes.
When it comes to the entrees, we’re less wowed–there’s a perfectly fine branzino and a well-seasoned mixed grill, but all the proteins are a bit overcooked. The standout entree is a surprise: the arnabeet (fried cauliflower) is the perfect balance of crispy and juicy, and joins Bar Bombon’s buffalo cauliflower tacos and Zahav’s fried cauliflower among Philly’s best renditions of this humble vegetable.
Li Beirut is perfect for a date night or group dinner where you want a ton of tasty food, a cozy atmosphere (we see you, Le Creuset wine koozies), warm hospitality, and to BYOB. The space is clean and rustic, filled with couples double- and triple-dating and groups of friends who would rather order by saying “bring it on” than figuring out who is getting what.
Food RundownWarak Enab Bel Zeit
Warm grape leaves stuffed with tomatoey rice are a step up from the cold, lackluster dolmas you may be expecting. These are included in the tasting, but are worth an a la carte order.
Batata Harra
Crispy potatoes with garlic, lemon, and parsley are another must-order as a mezze or a side dish.
Branzino
In a city with schools of well-done whole grilled fish, this one is just fine. Save yourself the upcharge and go for the arnabeet, or any of the grilled lamb entrees.
photo credit: DeAndra Ford
Arnabeet
Large sections of cauliflower, generously spiced, are fried until crisp in a light batter. It’s garnished with golden raisins and onions, and served with tahini. Get it.
photo credit: DeAndra Ford
Dining and Cooking