By 1:30 a.m., chef Stephanie Rastetter is usually in the kitchen of her restaurant, Water Street Bistro, starting the day’s pastries. Dough waits for no one, and by 8 a.m., her regulars begin filing in for almond croissants, morning buns and buttery Kouign-amann that fill the pastry case.
Rastetter, who opened the bistro in 1999, is a constant presence in the French-inspired cafe that’s as much a community gathering space as a restaurant. Some customers – especially older patrons – come for their morning lattes and return later for quiche or coq au vin at lunch, she said.
Seating is often at a premium, both on the dockside patios and inside, where tables are scattered, pulled together or pushed apart to accommodate groups of any size. Degas prints, bric-a-brac and antique cabinets filled with mismatched plates and glasses line the ruby-red walls, emphasizing a more-is-more Parisian aesthetic.
“I opened with no money and I did everything in the beginning. Little by little, we changed things to give it an eclectic, funky charm,” Rastetter said.
Owner/chef Stephanie Rastetter starts her day at 1:30 am creating fresh pastries and French cooking out of a tiny kitchen at Water Street Bistro Thursday, August 29, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
The forward-facing kitchen means she and her daughter, Bella Perez, are always front and center, chatting with customers while turning out photo-worthy dishes like a recent watermelon, mint and feta salad, or a simple cheese and fruit platter with starbursts of balsamic vinegar painted on the plate.
Few know that Rastetter was part of the early Bay Area farm-to-table food scene. She worked at restaurants like Berkley’s Chez Panisse and the legendary Babette’s in Sonoma, founded by culinary superstar Daniel Patterson, who later opened the two Michelin-starred Coi in San Francisco.
When Babette’s closed in 1997, Rastetter stepped away from the grind of late-night kitchen life to spend more time with her young daughters.
“You miss dinners and doing homework together when you work nights,” she said.
When she opened Water Street Bistro two years later, it was the first of its kind in Petaluma, offering locally sourced French cuisine in a casual environment. Della Fattoria and Central Market soon followed, marking the beginnings of Petaluma’s rise as a culinary destination.
Though Rastetter, now 66, continues to work grueling 16-hour days, it’s on her own terms, alongside her daughter and surrounded by customers who feel like family.
“A lot of places have come and gone, but we’ve become a downtown staple,” she said.
Duck Confit with endive and spinach and a glass of wine in a sunny window seat at Water Street Bistro Thursday, Aug. 29, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
Outside seating at the turning basin at Water Street Bistro Thursday, Aug. 29, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / Press Democrat)
The details
Most popular dish: Duck confit and quiche
Fun fact: Rastetter’s husband, who is French, isn’t much of a cook, but many customers assume he’s the one making the pastries. She’s quick to set the record straight: he’s not.
The vibe: A friendly, come-as-you-are cafe with approachable prices, quirky charm and excellent bistro cuisine. Grab a muffin or sit down for a full meal – either way, Rastetter is glad to see you.
The food: Morning pastries are a must, with sticky, sugary treats piled behind the glass counter. Quiche is typically offered in four varieties, with the bacon and Swiss in a buttery crust being the crowd favorite. Fat sandwiches like the pastrami and Swiss, or chicken salad on Della Fattoria sourdough, are top-sellers. Salad fans should try the Niçoise with tuna, potatoes, green beans and olives. Crab chowder is a menu staple, along with a rotating soup du jour. Main courses change daily, but duck confit is always available. Don’t miss desserts like the butterscotch pot de crème or the devilishly delicious duck egg flan.
Duck Egg Flan from Water Street Bistro Thursday, Aug. 29, 2025 in Petaluma. (John Burgess / The Press Democrat)
The perks: Sitting outside by the Petaluma River with a warm latte is about as good as it gets.
The price: Rastetter likes to keep things simple – wines are $9, pastries are $4 and generous entrees range from $18 to $25.
The spot: Water Street Bistro is open from 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday. Closed Sunday-Tuesday. 100 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma, 707-763-9563, waterstreetbistropetaluma.com
Originally Published: September 15, 2025 at 9:59 AM PDT
Dining and Cooking