A waiter eases the cork out of a bottle of pinot noir on a centuries-old, sun-drenched terrace. Beaune, in the eastern Burgundy region of France, flourished thanks to wine production — from the earliest Roman cultivation of the surrounding countryside to its commercialisation by monks and refinement by successive dukes of Burgundy — so there’s a palpable sense of place and pride in every pop of a cork here.
You’d be forgiven for thinking that this town in the heart of the most prestigious French wine-producing region is the preserve of those with expert noses and deep pockets. Yet, while there’s a distinct air of well-to-do, Beaune is also incredibly inclusive, with tastings, museums (such as the Musée du Vin) and experiences for all, from those interested in viticulture to those who just enjoy a good drop.
Part of the wider Unesco-listed region of ancient Burgundy vineyards, this historic walled town is a honey-coloured tangle of limestone buildings along winding cobbled streets, where wine cellars, gourmet bistros and antique shops pose the biggest threat to your budget. And given the city’s compact nature, the majority of sights are in the centre, so it’s super-easy to navigate on foot.
A reproduction of the polyptych of the Last Judgement in Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune
ALAMY
48 hours in Beaune — at a glanceDay one
• Morning Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune
• Lunch Soul Kitchen
• Afternoon Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne
• Drink at Le Bout du Monde
• Evening Walk the ramparts
• Dinner La Ciboulette
Day two
• Morning La Moutarderie Fallot
• Lunch Le Garden Fabien Berteau
• Afternoon Domaine Rion
• Drink at La Maison du Colombier
• Evening Bouchard Aîné & Fils
• Dinner Loiseau des Vignes
Try a mustard tasting at La Moutarderie Fallot
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What to see and do
• Step into the courtyard of the timber-framed Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune — built by the benevolent chancellor of Burgundy and his wife in 1443 to nurse the sick and the destitute — and find a chapel, a medicinal garden, frescoes and a treasured altarpiece under its intricate glazed-tile roof. Remarkably, this incredible building remained in use as a hospital until 1971 (from £11; hoteldieu.hospices-de-beaune.com).
• Interactive displays, scent testing and wine tasting combine at this sanctuary dedicated to the climats (plots of historic vines) of Burgundy. Opened in 2023 the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne is an innovative educational ode to ancient production techniques. Visit the rooftop for views across the vine-striped valley of the Côte de Beaune (£12; citeclimatsvins-bourgogne.com/la-cite-a-beaune).
• Tread the city ramparts on a self-guided tour of the ancient stone walls, which date from the 4th century. You can scan a QR code at each of the 17 sites along the route — towers, bastions and gates — to learn more about the locations, while peering into bijou gardens and fancy wine houses, made extra special when the setting sun lights up the walls. A map is available from the tourist office (free; remparts-beaune.fr).
• Know the core ingredients of mustard? You will after an engaging tour of the family-owned La Moutarderie Fallot, a producer of fine mustard since 1840. You’ll learn all about the crop, see bottling in action and finish at the mustard-tasting bar, which features flavours such as basil, gingerbread and yuzu (tours £10; fallot.com/la-moutarderie-fallot).
• Twenty minutes’ drive from Beaune, the family-owned Domaine Rion is doing innovative and exciting things with its wines, vines and experiences. It has been going strong for five generations and is now run by three entrepreneurial sisters. Go for a tour, a tasting and, in autumn, truffle hunting with the family’s dogs (tours from £16; domainerion.fr).
• Venture through the history of the Bouchard Aîné & Fils winery, just outside the city walls. You’ll taste five wines as you walk beneath the historic house and learn about the different terroirs, grape varieties and appellations, from régionale to grands crus. The tour is the perfect aperitif, and the branded tasting glass is yours to keep as a souvenir (tours from £21; bouchard-aine.fr).
The medieval Hôtel-Dieu des Hospices de Beaune
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Where to eat and drinkSoul Kitchen
Book a table for an indulgent lunch at the intimate Soul Kitchen, where the limited menu is dictated by the seasons and the produce available. Ever-changing, artfully assembled dishes such as beef bourguignon and cherry pots with local gingerbread burst with colour and flavour among the exposed stone walls and floor-to-ceiling windows (three-course lunch from £29; soulkitchen-beaune.fr).
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Le Bout du Monde
Just beyond the city walls, the wooden-beamed Le Bout du Monde — with its intimate interior and rear courtyard — has no fewer than 3,400 bottles across its whopping wine list. If the £5,200 tipple is a no-go, the £5 glass of aligoté is a top alternative (from £5; bdm-beaune.com).
Le Garden Fabien Berteau
Close to the café and bar-lined Place Carnot and the Hôtel-Dieu is Le Garden Fabien Berteau, with its counter of sandwiches, salads and loads of good veggie options. Sit inside or alfresco and choose the good-value two-course menu, with drink included (from £9; le-garden-fabien-berteau-beaune.eatbu.com).
La Maison du Colombier has more than 4,000 wines
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La Maison du Colombier
Cosy seating makes for a snug refuge at La Maison du Colombier. Close to the 13th-century Basilica Notre-Dame, it’s a welcome retreat where coffee, sharing platters of charcuterie and more than 4,000 wines prove popular with locals young and old (drinks from £2; maisonducolombier.com).
La Ciboulette
Just inside the 18th-century Porte St Nicolas, the neighbourhood brasserie La Ciboulette has great-value set menus that evolve with the seasons. Plates such as the region’s signature ham hock and parsley terrine, fillet of Charolais beef and Comté cheese are complemented by Burgundy wines, all served informally with wide smiles (mains from £16; instagram.com/restaurant_la_ciboulette).
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Loiseau des Vignes
Round off the day drinking Burgundy’s finest at Loiseau des Vignes, an elegant bistro with exposed stone walls, velvet furnishings and a considered menu — think gazpacho laced with peach and edible flowers, pan-fried hake with nettle coulis and paired wines. Stay for the dessert trolley laden with little works of patisserie art (mains from £28; bernard-loiseau.com).
Loiseau des Vignes is an elegant setting to drink some Burgundy
CHERRYSTONE
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Where to stayIbis Styles Beaune Centre
The Ibis is an affordable, well-located base
Great value by the city walls
Near the railway station, bars such as Le Bout du Monde and the tourist office, the Ibis Styles Beaune Centre promises affordability with a familiar dash of minimalist comfort. All rooms come with double beds, while some also have views of the city walls. For an oven-fresh breakfast alternative, pick up pastries at the nearby La Boulangerie de la Madeleine (B&B doubles from £107; all.accor.com).
Le Central Boutique Hotel
Le Central Boutique Hotel was recently renovated
Stylish stay in the heart of town
Adjacent to the Hospices de Beaune, this recently revamped hotel is a cosy combo of 25 colourful rooms and shared spaces in which you can plough through the bar’s impressive wine list, play retro arcade games and surrender to live music in the swish Club 1818. If needs must there are even nooks for opening your laptop in peace. Choose a superior room for a little extra space and a quiet courtyard view (room-only doubles from £110; lecentralbeaune.com).
Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa
Hostellerie Cèdre & Spa has a Michelin-starred restaurant
Luxe hotel with a terrific restaurant
Facing the ramparts is this five-star hotel, with 40 modern, muted rooms and the Michelin-starred restaurant Clos du Cèdre. The leather armchairs and open fireplace in the library conjure the perfect brandy spot, while the Nuxe Spa offers a little extra R&R. Splash out on a deluxe room for a king-size bed, a window onto the terrace and the hypnotic trickle of the fountain in the garden below (room-only doubles from £295; cedrebeaune.com).
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Getting there and around
Take a train to Beaune via Paris — it’s a two-hour trip from Paris Bercy station, including a change in Dijon. You can also fly to Lyon and take a train to Beaune from there in 90 minutes. Beaune has lots of winding, pedestrianised streets, so walking is the best way to get around the city. However, the electric Côte&Beaune shuttle bus runs from early June to late September and covers the main attractions, including the Cité des Climats et Vins de Bourgogne (free for guests of some hotels, otherwise £1; beaune-tourism.com).
Visit responsibly
A great way to visit Beaune is as part of a wider trip to Burgundy, whether by car, train or on a self-guided walking holiday. Historic Dijon also makes for an easy day trip, reachable by train in 30 minutes.
Kirsten Henton was a guest of Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Tourisme (burgundy-tourism.com) and Eurostar, which has London-Paris fares from £39 (eurostar.com)
Have you visited Beaune? Let us know in the comments
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