Review by
Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
18 Sep, 2025 06:00 PM3 mins to read
Michael Cooper has 45 wine books and several literary awards to his credit. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit.
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Many consumers are drinking less but willing to pay more for wine. Photo / Supplied
It’s tough times in the wine industry. The global demand for New Zealand wine has plateaued, but the 2025 grape harvest in Marlborough failed to restore a balance between supply and demand, being 20% heavier than required.
The average per-litre value of our exported wines fell by 5% in the
year to June 2025. In Marlborough, it is rumoured that some so-called export sales have merely been “trans-shipments”, whereby wine was shipped in bulk for storage offshore to free up tank space for the bumper 2025 crop of the region’s sauvignon blanc.
The good news is that some producers are still finding “real opportunities out there”. Brian and Nicola Bicknell founded Mahi Wines in 2001 to celebrate the fact that although most of Marlborough’s wines were blended from vineyards across the region, “the various valleys and sites within Marlborough were making quite different styles of wines”.
Today, Mahi distributes its wines through independent retailers and restaurants. Bicknell says consumers are increasingly looking for wines “with a bit of age”, and although many people are drinking less, “there is a greater acceptance of higher prices, which is definitely needed if we want to crop lower to achieve real ripeness and flavour density”.
Wines with individuality are selling well. “We had to struggle for years with the fact that all Marlborough sauvignon blancs were being lumped together, but now more complex styles, like barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc, are in demand.”
In major overseas markets such as the US, the UK and Australia, New Zealand wines are most visible in supermarkets and specialist wine stores. New Zealand is under-represented on wine lists, “but we are now finding restaurants do want our wines if they have provenance and texture [weighty, rich and harmonious on the palate].”
Overseas, Bicknell believes New Zealand’s winegrowers have generally “been a bit lazy”, focusing on markets “that speak English and are easy. There are still a lot of markets that are unexplored. We are finding we need to invest more in terms of travel, but our long-term relationships with our agent partners are really paying off. It is amazing to see how many winemakers are travelling now.”
Wine of the week
Mahi Marlborough Pinot Noir 2023
★★★★½
This mouthfilling, savoury red was grown mostly in the Twin Valleys Vineyard inland from Renwick in the Wairau Valley. Matured for more than a year in French oak barriques, it has strong, fresh, well-ripened cherry, plum and spice flavours, hints of herbs and nuts, very good complexity and a smooth finish. Already enjoyable, it’s likely to be at its best in 2027+. (13.9% alc/vol) $39
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