Sushi Saikou

When some plans last night went sideways and I needed some dinner in Nolita, I jumped on Resy to see if there was anything new worth trying.

I wouldn't normally opt-in for an omakase on an average Tuesday night, but $120 for 17 pieces seemed intriguing enough, so why not? After our favorite spot (RIP Juku) closed a year or so ago, we'd been looking for a good "mid-range" go-to omakase, and I'm pleased to report that Saikou fills that void.

It's a long, narrow space and you enter into a lounge that's closed off from the dining area by curtains. There's a comfortable couch and a table with some glasses and carafes of water. We were a few minutes early, so it was nice to have somewhere to sit and wait and not feel like you're just oddly hovering over people on their last bites of nigiri.

There are twelve seats with two sushi chefs working in front of you. The meal starts with a progression of three seasonal appetizers: a miso black cod, a lightly-seared salmon with lotus root, and yellowtail with daikon. These were all super unique and a perfect teaser of the quality to come.

Then, we dove right in. I don't need to dwell on each piece of fish, since I think the photos speak for themselves, but the diversity of fish and quality of presentation was outstanding. One thing that stood out to me was the chef's use of wasabi, tuned to each particular piece of fish. Also, the pieces of fish were generously sized, without too much rice.

Sake (salmon) was smoked for about 15 minutes under a glass cloche while we ate the first few pieces; the result was perfectly textured salmon nigiri that smelled and tasted like smoked salmon, minus the excess salt. Meanwhile, toro was topped with a touch of caviar and shaved burgundy truffle, and the seared wagyu piece received a melty cube of foie gras. I know some people don't like those "gilded lily" pieces like that, but for an omakase at this price point, it just makes it an even better value.

A la carte pieces were offered afterward and were very reasonable—we added on isaki and nodoguro (very rare, market price was $18pp) at the end. Both absolutely worth it.

Dessert was a delicate, perfectly portioned matcha custard. One of the best omakase finishes I've ever had.

Our chef was dynamic and funny, toasting his sake with us multiple times throughout the night, and regaling us with tales about making sushi for Obama in the White House with his teacher! We were the last ones in the restaurant and never once felt rushed or unwelcome. I chatted with the host/manager (maybe owner?) at the end of the meal and he explained that they change their seasonal fish nearly every day and that the three appetizers also change regularly, so you're unlikely to have the exact same experience twice.

Overall, at $120, it's a screaming deal for quality, diversity, and presentation and will definitely go into my regular reportoire.