Chef Matthew Ryle hasn’t let the fact that he grew up near Reading stop him from becoming a champion of French food. Even his mentor Raymond Blanc praised his “deep love and passion” for France’s “humble home-cooked dishes”. Ryle has put his knowledge to use at two of London’s most respected restaurants, Maison François and Cafe François. He always likes to return to the classics — as seen in these recipes from his new book. “It’s the simple methods and recipes from my college days that remain the tools I rely on most,” he says.
Although it’s traditionally served cold, this leek and potato soup is also great warmed up. Sweat the onion, shallots and leeks at a very low temperature for a long time to extract their maximum natural sweetness. And blend it for a full 5 minutes: the super-smooth velvety texture is what makes vichyssoise so special.
Serves 4 as a starter or light meal
Ingredients
• 150g butter
• 1 onion, finely sliced
• 2 shallots, finely sliced
• 3 leeks, white parts only, finely sliced
• 3 garlic cloves, chopped
• 150g peeled and chopped potato (about half a large one)
• 2 bay leaves
• A 50:50 mix of whole milk and water, to cover
• Salt and pepper
• Croutons and chopped chives, to serve
Method
1. Put a wide-based pan over a medium-low heat and add the butter. When it has melted, sweat the onion, shallots, leeks and garlic until very soft but not coloured, about 15 min. Add the remaining ingredients, season well and bring to the boil, then gently simmer for another 10-15 min or until the potatoes are completely soft.
2. Remove the bay leaves, then transfer the vegetables to a blender using a slotted spoon, leaving the liquid behind in the pan for now. Start blending, adding ladles of liquid until you get the correct consistency.
3. Blend for 5 min until very smooth, then pour through a fine sieve into a clean pan or bowl. Check the seasoning, then leave the soup to cool if you want to eat it chilled. Scatter with the croutons and chives before serving.
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Chicken chasseur
A great make-in-advance meal, chasseur is perfect for a party — just follow the recipe until the chicken is cooked, then chill. Reheat it when you’re ready to go, adding the tomatoes and chopped tarragon. Serve with rice or mashed potatoes.
Serves 4
Ingredients
• 1½ tbsp olive oil
• Salt and pepper
• 10 chicken pieces, on the bone
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• 60g butter
• 200g button mushrooms, halved
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 50ml brandy
• 30g tomato puree
• 2 tbsp plain flour
• 125ml white wine
• 400ml chicken stock
• 4 tomatoes, chopped
• 2 tsp tarragon leaves, finely chopped
Method
1. Place a large ovenproof pan over a medium heat. Add the oil, season the chicken pieces and colour on both sides, skin side first. Remove the chicken from the pan. Cook the onions for 2 min, then add the butter, mushrooms and garlic. Cook for another 3 min, then add the brandy and cook until it has evaporated. Add the tomato puree and cook for 2 min.
2. Heat the oven to 180C fan/gas 6. Add the flour to the pan and cook over a low heat for about 3 min, then slowly add the wine, stirring. Once it’s fully absorbed add the stock, again gradually and in stages.
3. Return the chicken to the sauce, this time skin side up, and place in the oven for 30-40 min or until fully cooked. Add the tomatoes and tarragon to the chasseur, warm through and serve.
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Pissaladière
To make your life easy, I would recommend cooking your onions in advance and using ready-rolled puff pastry. If you have both these components in the fridge ready to go, this is a very simple recipe to make.
Serves 4 as a light meal, or more as a starter or canapé
Ingredients
• 4 onions, sliced
• 4 tsp olive oil, plus extra
• Salt and pepper
• 320g shop-bought all-butter puff pastry sheet
• 25 good-quality anchovy fillets from a tin or jar (see Kitchen Clinic)
• 25 black olives, ideally niçoise
• Leaves from 4 thyme sprigs
Method
1. Put the onions and oil in a wide pan over a medium heat. Cover with a lid and steam-fry for about 5 min. Add a pinch of salt and remove the lid to allow the liquid to evaporate, then continue to cook slowly, stirring frequently, until you have a dark caramelised mass. You want the onions to stick slightly — scraping them from the bottom of the pan is what allows them to achieve that deep brown colour.
2. Heat the oven to 220C fan/gas 9. Rub a baking tray with olive oil and place your puff pastry sheet on top. Top with the caramelised onions and spread nearly to the edges, leaving just a small section of visible crust. Bake for 15-20 min. The crust should puff up and take on a nice colour and the underside should be crisp.
3. Decorate the baked tart with anchovies, olives and thyme, then finish with some olive oil and cracked black pepper. Traditionally the anchovies form a lattice pattern, with the olives in the middle of each diamond. Cut into pieces and enjoy while it’s still warm.
Extracted from French Classics by Matthew Ryle (Bloomsbury £26). To order, go to timesbookshop.co.uk. Discount for Times+ members
Dining and Cooking