The magnificent and humble Jacques Pépin announced loudly and clearly earlier this year that his new series of cooking shows on PBS make up his last year in television, at least with original shows. And his new book, which accompanies the series, “Jacques Pépin Heart and Soul in the Kitchen,” would also appear to be his last. But I wouldn’t underestimate the energetic nearly 80-year-old for one minute or decade.
As Nancy Lang and I arrived at the Book Passage event at Left Bank restaurant in Larkspur about 20 minutes before the stated start time of 6:30, we could see a crowd lining the sidewalk outside the Magnolia Avenue brasserie, along with stacks of books on a table.
As we eventually got into line, servers were passing light and scrumptious appetizers and Argentine wines were poured for those waiting. Pépin graciously sat at a table signing books, with his handler preventing photos. Pépin’s buddy, Roland Passot, owner of the Left Bank brasseries and La Folie in San Francisco, jollied him up with a glass of wine and jokes in French. After all, signing more than 200 books can be work.
Sometime before the first course came, I got a tap on my shoulder saying we were moving to the head table, quite the honor, although I felt badly deserting chef/owner Heidi Krahling of Insalata’s in San Anselmo and her sister-in-law. At least we got to talk long enough that she will come to our Last Wednesday Food Group at Readers’ Books soon.
Always kind, gentle, unassuming, and personable, and dressed in his blue T-shirt and blue cotton blazer, Pépin eventually made it to every guest at every table for handshakes, hugs and photos.
The dinner itself was exquisite and created by the Left Bank crew, as well as by Joël Guillaume, onetime chef designate to René Verdon, owner of the former Le Trianon in San Francisco and Kennedy White House chef who brought French food to Jackie Kennedy’s public lifestyle, and later to the Lyndon Johnson family.
All of the recipes came from Pépin’s new book, with the menu itself listing what page each course could be found.
Dinner started with perfect gougères (little puff pastries filled with warm cheese), duck liver mousse on a crostini, and a cold soup of leeks and broth, all served on one plate.
The entrée, which we call the main course and which means the entry or appetizer course in France, was salmon scaloppini with sorrel sauce, carrots with chives, and the surprise of the evening, “Potatoes Rachel Ray” from page 331.
The recipe is simple. Basically lightly boil Yukon Gold potatoes in chicken broth for about 15 minutes, press gently on each potato to crack open the skin, add butter and cook in pan about three minutes on each side, sprinkle with chives and serve.
The book is gorgeous, with food and family photos by Tom Hopkins and illustrations and paintings by Jacques Pépin, sponsors, and a tribute to KQED where he has filmed all of this shows.
During the question period following dinner, Pépin revealed several personal facts:
1) When my wife and I argue I always end up doing what she likes.
2) Despite the rumors, Julia (Child) and I only argued over whether to use white or black peppercorns or things like that.
3) We throw out a lot of fish and other food that we should be using.
4) He loves to read.
5) Our sense memories of smell, taste and touch are much stronger than our brain.
6) When asked what his favorite food memory is from all of his years of preparing food and pleasing people he answered, “Bread and butter,” citing those made by his mother in France.
Sonoma realtor Marguerita Castanera coordinates Book Passage’s Cooks with Books series and says that the next event, featuring Yotam Ottolenghi at Insalata’s, is sold out.
But tickets are still available for flamboyant Brit, Nigella Lawson, who will bring her passion and new book, “Simply Nigella,” to the Left Bank Brasserie on Wednesday, Nov. 18 at 6:30 p.m. $125 includes dinner, wine, tax and tip and a signed copy of her book. Reserve at bookpassage.com.
Dining and Cooking