Flames cackle, pop, and roar, emitting intense heat in shades of orange and yellow. Sweat beaded up on chef Cosimo Allegretta’s forehead as he stood by his restaurant’s pizza oven, which can reach 950 degrees Fahrenheit. 

It was not long after 1 p.m. on a Saturday, but he had already spent hours cooking pizzas in the toasty kitchen. It’s worth the heat to see the look on people’s faces when they take their first bite, he explained.

“Having [the oven] over here is a privilege,” Allegretta said. “The flavor, the aroma, the sound, the heat, … it’s amazing.”

Allegretta highlights thousand-year-old Italian cooking traditions with the wood-fired pizza oven at The Eatery at Vina Robles in Paso Robles.

The Stefano Ferrara oven was hand-crafted, brick by brick, in Italy. Some consider it the best tool in the world for cooking wood-fired pizza. The shiny, black oven is the focal point of the kitchen at The Eatery, which opened in June.

“It brings back traditions, history,” Allegretta said. “It makes unique dishes as well.”

STOKING THE FLAMES: In a hand-made oven from Italy, reaching up to 950 degrees Fahrenheit, pizzas cook in just a couple of minutes. Credit: PHOTO COURTESY OF VINA ROBLES

Allegretta and his brothers Nicola and Luca, also chefs, own and manage restaurants on the Central Coast including Mama’s Meatball and Mistura in SLO. At each spot, they offer bold flavors found in cuisines from all around the world.

Take The Eatery’s Italian fare. At such a hot temperature, each pizza needs less than three minutes in the oven, Allegretta said. The menu features classic pies like the Margherita and a handful more with fresh toppings: the Monte Bianco with mozzarella, prosciutto, arugula, and mascarpone; the Crudaiola with mozzarella, grilled eggplant, tomatoes, artichokes, and pesto; the smoked salmon with dill, onions, capers, and mascarpone. The list goes on.

Made with locally sourced ingredients, the menu also includes starters (even Mama’s Meatballs), salads, sandwiches, and desserts. Allegretta said the restaurant caters to those with dietary restrictions, offering gluten-free crust and a vegetarian special most weeks.

“Part of the ingredients that we get are coming from farmers markets,” Allegretta said. “We try to support locals.”

Cooking runs in Allegretta’s family. It started with his mom, he said, who passed along her passion for cooking. She first taught him and his brothers the basics, like salting and boiling pasta water, and then about creating the best flavors and sauces.

Allegretta and his two brothers have worked in restaurants all over the world but settled on the Central Coast almost 25 years ago.

“We fell in love with the Central Coast,” Allegretta said. 

FINE PAIRING: The Eatery is located inside the Vina Robles tasting room, allowing guests to sip and eat at the same time. Customers can even request a wine pairing customized to specific menu items. Credit: PHOTO COURTESY OF VINA ROBLES

He also likes the setup at Vina Robles. The winery has wanted a culinary partner since the tasting room moved to its current location in January. 

The Eatery delivers consistently delicious comfort food, said Alyssa Ball, the winery’s hospitality manager.

Customers can choose from bar seating or comfortable chairs and couches to enjoy their provisions in the industrial aesthetic. The open floor plan brings everyone together, matching the friendly collaboration between the winery and restaurant.

The 12,000-square-foot space has even more to offer. Visitors can rent out the library lounge upstairs for an intimate gathering, the conference room for an out-of-office meeting, or the entire space for a grand party. A long communal table is also available for groups of up to 30 people, and Ball said it also serves as a hub for visitors to meet new people. 

“You can’t find a space like this that easily,” Ball said.

Allegretta hopes the spot becomes a destination that customers remember and visit again.

“I want them to feel satisfied,” Allegretta said, “you know, like happy.” ∆ 

Send a wood-fired slice to Staff Writer Madison White at mwhite@santamariasun.com.

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Dining and Cooking