Review by
Michael Cooper
Wine writer·New Zealand Listener·
25 Sep, 2025 06:00 PM3 mins to read
Michael Cooper has 45 wine books and several literary awards to his credit. In the 2004 New Year Honours, Michael was appointed an Officer of the New Zealand Order of Merit.
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A broad church: This Hawke’s Bay label caters for a diverse congregation. Photo / Getty Images
A mecca for tourists, with an underground wine museum, popular restaurant and atmospheric cellar, Church Road lies at the foot of the Taradale hills in Hawke’s Bay. From vines planted in 1896, the first wine at Taradale Vineyards flowed in 1901. Following a series of ownership changes, the Church Road
label was launched in 1990. Under chief winemaker Chris Scott, the wines have built an enviable reputation for quality and value. Today, its wines are marketed in seven collections, headed by Tom (named for pioneering winemaker Tom McDonald), then the single vineyard Church Road 1, Editions, Grand Reserve, Gwen, McDonald Series and the standard Church Road range. Here are six highlights from my recent tasting.
Church Road Tom Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2020
★★★★★
Still unfolding, this dark, dense blend was matured for 18 months in French oak barriques (73% new). It is weighty and fleshy, with concentrated, notably ripe blackcurrant, plum, herb, coffee and spice flavours enriched with toasty oak, and supple tannins. Revealing lovely poise and harmony, it should be at its best from 2027 onwards. (14.5% alc/vol) $200-$220
Church Road 1 Single Vineyard Redstone Syrah 2021
★★★★★
This highly refined, graceful red is full-coloured, with a fragrant, spicy bouquet. Mouthfilling, it has deep, ripe plum and spice flavours, gently seasoned with nutty oak, hints of black pepper and liquorice, smooth tannins and a lasting finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $110-$130
Church Road Editions No. 2 Viognier 2020
★★★★★
Sold only at the cellar door, this powerful wine is fleshy and sweet-fruited, with rich stonefruit flavours, savoury, complex and harmonious, and slightly buttery notes. A distinctive wine, currently delicious, it would appeal to most chardonnay lovers. (14% alc/vol) $35
Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke’s Bay Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Malbec 2021
★★★★★
This classy, fine-value red is a dark, purple-flushed, cabernet sauvignon-based blend. Weighty, it has concentrated, ripe blackcurrant, plum and spice flavours, nutty, earthy notes adding complexity, and good tannin backbone. It should flourish for a decade. (14% alc/vol) $36-$45
Church Road McDonald Series Hawke’s Bay Pinot Gris 2024
★★★★★
Full of character, this is a distinctly Alsace style of pinot gris – sturdy and rich. It has concentrated, peachy, gently spicy, slightly honeyed flavours, a distinct splash of sweetness, an oily texture and lovely vigour, richness and harmony. A great buy. (13.5% alc/vol) $23-$28
Wine of the week
Church Road Gwen Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2024
★★★★★
Designed as an “elegant” rather than bold style, this vigorous, savoury wine hits the target while delivering top value. Grown principally at cool coastal sites, it is a distinctive, mouthfilling, complex wine, with excellent depth of vibrant, peachy, citrusy flavours, a subtle seasoning of oak, and a tightly structured, sustained finish. (13.5% alc/vol) $23-27
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