Cornerstone Restaurant Group debuted a new Italian spot in August, taking over the longtime Tarantino’s space in Lincoln Park. With a full house every night, Dimmi Dimmi Corner Italian has quickly become one of the toughest tables in town. Here’s the scene on a Wednesday at 6:30 p.m.
A laid-back neighborhood spot that works for just about any occasion. On my visit, a family had dinner while the kids kept busy with iPads. At another table, staff acknowledged a birthday with a celebratory dessert. Groups of friends gathered to catch up, and couples tucked into two-person booths along the exposed brick wall. The bar — where I sat — is first come, first served, but there’s little space to wait on a busy night. I found myself awkwardly hovering by the host stand until a seat opened up, and if several parties are waiting, the area gets quite congested. Music plays at a low volume that doesn’t hinder conversation, and the lighting is dim enough that one patron resorted to a phone flashlight to read the menu.
Executive chef Matt Eckfeld’s menu showcases red-sauce classics and tavern-style pizza. The baked clams casino is a nice starter. Nine clams arrive nestled in their shells, crowned with a spicy breadcrumb crust and bacon; a squeeze of lemon helps cut through the richness. For a Chicago spin, the Italian beef–style carpaccio comes dressed with giardiniera, shaved Parmesan, and a drizzle of beef jus aioli. The pizzas are paper-thin, evoking the tavern-style pies Bungalow by Middle Brow serves on Tuesdays. Every piece of my sausage pizza had a hunk of pork on it, reminiscent of Villa Nova. There’s also a pie topped with vodka sauce, sweet onions, ‘nduja, and Calabrian chile. I nearly finished an entire pizza on my own, and those with big appetites should be able to do the same.
Cocktails lean predictably Italian, including a Calabrian dirty martini with ‘nduja-gorgonzola stuffed olive, amaro sour, and a selection of spritzes. The negroni is a particularly fine version, made with Gran Bassano Rosso, a Merlot-based vermouth. Wines are mostly Italian as well, and a variety of amaro and grappa are available if you want a digestif after dinner.
Dimmi Dimmi has the spirit of a neighborhood restaurant, but judging by the crowds and buzz, it’s attracting a much wider audience. The menu feels familiar, yet thoughtful twists keep it fresh and interesting. Tavern-style pizza lovers will be pleased by the offerings — no small feat given the flood of new contenders lately. Right now, you’ll have to plan weeks in advance to secure a reservation. Walk-ins are welcome at the bar, though a wait is likely.
Dining and Cooking