Despite the countless hours I’ve spent enjoying a glass of wine, a connoisseur, I am not. Unfortunately, in the world of wine, cumulative time spent enjoying a glass doesn’t count toward general understanding. Nearing the end of my 30s, I thought it was time to finally gain a better education for the libation that I’ve come to appreciate.
Not requiring the prestige of a sommelier title, nor the pressure of claiming myself to be an expert, I simply hope to hold my own among the oenophiles at elegant dinner parties that surely people in their 40s host. What better way to educate myself than by osmosis? For me, this came in the form of a seven-day river cruise through one of France’s most renowned wine regions.
I set sail on the Scenic Diamond, a 74-suite ship in the global fleet of Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours. Onboard, our luxury experience included overflowing drinks, a butler service, and wine pairings with every meal, and as soon as we were docked, I transformed from pampered vacationer to eager student. It’s been said that every education has its tuition and if the cost of my wine schooling is having to visit a wine estate every day of my trip, so be it.
An introduction to Bordeaux wines
Even the most novice wine drinker will know that Bordeaux is synonymous with exceptional wine. Nestled between the Atlantic Ocean, the Garonne and Dordogne rivers, and the Gironde Estuary, Bordeaux’s moderate climate is prime for grape cultivation. The region’s unique geography serves as a patchwork for 6,000 prestigious wine estates and chateaus.
At our port of Cadillac in the Sauternes region, we loaded a coach to Château de Malle, where I received my first lesson on terroir, or the environment of the grapes (soil, topography, climate, and even the amount of sunlight) that influences the overall taste and quality of the wine. The natural environment in Sauternes is unique with its cool misty mornings and warm sunbaked afternoons, which just so happens to be the perfect breeding ground for a fungus called Botrytis cinerea. The fungus dries out the grapes, resulting in a sweeter, more concentrated juice, producing the sweet wines that Sauternes is known for. The fungus is graciously referred to as noble rot, a title I will now bestow on the days I feel like ignoring all of my obligations and wasting away in bed.
Stretching beyond terroir are appellations, or the specific geographical regions where certain wines can be commercially produced. It is within these appellations that you will find wine estates and vineyards (referred to as chateaus) where certain highly regulated wines are made. And if you want to order wine like a true expert (or just like the French), be sure to order your glass by the name of the chateau, not by the type of blend.
A class on Grand Crus
My education through immersion continued in the prestigious Margaux appellation. Known for its well-drained, predominantly gravelly soils, the grapes grown here make for excellent red blends like Cabernet Sauvignon. Our guide referred to both the region and wine as elegant and refined, and at our visit to Château Dauzac, I couldn’t agree more. It was at this chateau that I learned about Napoleon III’s tiered rating system for red wines known as Grand Cru Classé, essentially a “best of” for wines in Bordeaux. These wines are known to age gracefully and make a wonderful, if not extravagant, souvenir to bring home. When someone says that you’re aging like a fine wine, you want them to be referring to a Grand Cru.
Not all wines are created equal
While not blessed by Napoleon, but still an exceptional glass of wine, I found Château Siaurac in the Pomerol appellation to be just my speed. The smallest of Bordeaux’s appellations, Pomerol proves that bigger isn’t always better. In fact, Pomerol is revered for its wines that often fetch a higher price than Cru classés.
The dominant grape variety here is Merlot, which unlike me, makes for a rich and approachable wine at any age. Through my tour and tasting at Château Siaurac, I also discovered, much to my chagrin, that older isn’t always better and it’s what’s under the soil that can greatly impact the quality and taste of the wine.
One interesting takeaway from my journey (aside from the half case I purchased from Château Siaurac), is that these vines are not irrigated, unlike many of their American counterparts. The intention is to encourage the vines to send roots deeper to find water. In their attempt to dig deep, they struggle, and in that turmoil they may produce less grapes but the ones they do yield are richer and bolder.
A guided wine education at the source
For me, this journey was much the same. While I wasn’t equipped with a bounty of viticultural knowledge when I embarked, this experience made it easy to tap a deep spring of lore and facts. At the core I learned that wine is complicated, and diverse, and ever-evolving.
A river cruise offers its guests a way to visit multiple appellations without the effort of planning. Every excursion to an estate or chateau included a knowledgeable guide who escorted me through my wine education and happily answered any questions. Onboard, I continued my journey with wine pairings, wine talks (including a formal presentation for each port and its appointed appellation), tastings, and culinary adventures in the kitchen where the ship’s chef hosted cooking classes with wine pairings.
If, like me, you’re looking to expand your wine repertoire, a river cruise to Bordeaux is a wonderful way to set sail on your endeavor.
Dining and Cooking