story by GLENDA WINDERS
Indiana is seldom mentioned in conversations about the best places in the world for culinary treasures. You’re more likely to hear names such as Paris, New York, and Hong Kong rather than, say, Lafayette, Carmel, and Jasper. But the state is harboring a pretty tasty secret: Those Hoosier cities and many others create culinary delights that reflect life in the Midwest and range from burgers and tenderloins to haute cuisine. But what’s even more special are the people behind those establishments. The heart of these businesses are the owners, chefs, distillers, winemakers, confectioners—and they all have great stories to tell.
Joann Hofer is the founder and chief chololatier at Xchocol’Art in Carmel.
PHOTO: Paola Williams Photography
A good place to begin a gastronomic getaway might be in Carmel, which can boast of several good restaurants to tempt your tastebuds. For a singular dinner, book a table at Vivante in the Hotel Carmichael at the heart of Carmel City Center and along the Monon Trail. The name means “life,” and that’s just what Executive Chef Chris Coorts brings to the meals she creates. She was inspired by her mother’s ability to put unusual ingredients together with tasty results and went on to graduate from Le Cordon Bleu Culinary School in St. Louis.
“Bringing people together through unforgettable flavors and vibrant, innovative cuisine is why I do what I do,” she said.
Dinner might be halibut with ginger grits or lemon ravioli with arugula pesto, paired with wine you select from an extensive list followed by a sinful dessert.
Located near Vivante is Xchocol’Art, located in the Carmel Clay History Museum. The award-winning founder and chief chocolatier is Joann Hofer, who opened her business after international training she received while living in Austria. She is also a painter, hence the name of her establishment and the beauty of the artful confections she purveys.
Also in Carmel is the Olive Mill, part of a larger operation but locally owned by Debbie O’Connell. Together with manager Stephen Hannah, an Indianapolis native, they invite you to come in to sample olive oils and balsamic vinegars from all over the world, just as you might wines. Then purchase whatever you like for yourself, and at holiday time look for their gift-wrapped collections.
Brothers Jerrad and Jason Oakley are the forces behind the Oakley Brothers’ Distillery in Anderson, a “grain-to-glass” operation with a gastropub-vibe restaurant that serves cocktails made with their own spirits. Along with those come elevated and diverse comfort foods made with beef tallow for a healthier approach.
“Our goal is to create an establishment where you make memories with family and friends,” said Lisa Oakley, Jerrad’s wife. “A place where you feel comfortable being yourself and want to come back to.” She adds that it’s truly a family affair. “The distillery is like a second home for our children. It’s not all about making alcohol, it’s about family, making memories together, and dreams coming true. Jerrad’s dream has become my dream and now our son, who’s only nine, wants to learn and take the business over when we retire.”
Another establishment you’ll want to visit is Payne’s in Gas City. Stephen Payne hails from Yorkshire, England, but he was fascinated when he first visited the birthplace of James Dean. He came back to open his own pub, where he now serves British favorites such as fish and chips, bangers and mash, beef stew with Yorkshire pudding, and chicken curry along with sticky toffee pudding, bread pudding, and much more.
Grains and Grill in nearby Fairmount is the purveyor of “comfort food with a twist”—pub fare, sandwiches, steak, seafood, chicken entrees, and yummy desserts. Among the beers they serve are those from Bad Dad Brewery, under the same roof, with selections such as “I’ll Turn This Car Around,” “Socks and Sandals,” and “You’re Grounded, Mister.” Bad Dad also serves up woodfired pizzas, made with high-quality ingredients. Both businesses were started, and still owned, by Barry and Joanie Howard, who grew up in Fairmount and were high school sweethearts. Their passion for the community and providing a top-notch culinary experience is obvious every time you visit.
For more international cuisine, head to Catello’s Italian Art Cuisine in Pendleton. When Catello Avagnale, a native of Naples, Italy, visited the state ten years ago, he realized there was a need for authentic Italian cuisine. After working in a friend’s restaurant for a few years, he opened his own restaurant. “I want to create an ambience where you can enjoy your time here,” he said, “and for sure the food.”
To make that happen, he serves up dishes such as Risotto Agrumi e Capesante, lemon risotto served with scallops and shrimp; and Agnello and Caprino, pappardelle pasta cooked with rack of lamb in red wine sauce, evo, shallots, and herbs served with red bell pepper sauce on a bed of goat cream sauce, pistachio grain, and homemade cream figs. Along with these are more traditional lasagna, ravioli, and tortellini–all made with the freshest of ingredients and perhaps finished off with a scoop of gelato.
In Noble County you’ll find the St. James Restaurant in Avila, the oldest restaurant in northern Indiana. The St. James Hotel was built in 1878 by Jonathan James. Bill and Evelyn Freeman bought it in 1948, when it had fallen into disrepair, and turned it into a special-occasion spot for such menu items as steaks, prime rib, chicken, and seafood. The establishment grew over the years, and so has the Freeman family, still the owners.
Make a stop in nearby Rome City, where Sylvan Cellars owners Rachel and Nathan Schermerhorn turned a historic landmark barn that was about to be demolished into a tasting room, restaurant, and event center. Start your visit in the tasting room, where you can choose from a variety of craft beers, wines, and cocktails along with an extensive whiskey section. Then move on to their Kitchen restaurant and select from a wide variety of menu items.
The idea for the Rooted Vegan began when owners Craig and Kristi Collins wondered if a small rural town would care about having a vegan restaurant. In 2021 they began taking their vegan baked goods to the farmers market, and the result was so overwhelming that they eventually opened their restaurant on the square in downtown Angola. Now they serve breakfast, lunch, baked goods, and smoothies. Opt for burritos, protein bowls, bagels, and wraps, all deliciously prepared and appealing–regardless of your dietary preferences. Best of all, the Collinses are committed to kindness. Not especially hungry? Come in, sit down, and stay for conversation.
Ryan Riegsecker, president of Blue Gate Hospitality and son of founders Mel and June Riegsecker, is the man behind the food and entertainment boom in Shipshewana. In his capable hands a small restaurant has blossomed into a destination for music, plays, Amish culture, and excellent food. Visit the 750-seat restaurant where handmade noodles are the star of every plate, and make a stop at the bakery for unbeatable fruit and cream pies.
Under the leadership of Chef Nick Delp, Cerulean in Winona Lake provides Asian fusion cuisine with a decided bent toward Japanese. Small plates range from Bao Buns to Crispy Chicken Wings. Entrees might be Chili Pepper Chicken featuring boneless chicken breast, linguine, harissa, gorgonzola cream, cilantro, basil, and grilled lime; or Maple Leaf duck breast with chive risotto, wild mushroom, caramelized onion, and lemon zest. Some menu items are delivered in a bento box.
Enjoy a winery experience in an 1870s house the owners, Deanne Sasser and Mike Tisma, restored by themselves to create the tasting room at Four Corners Winery in Valparaiso. Deanne and her son Tristan Dembowski, are self-taught winemakers. Their success comes from persistence and trial and error. Fueled by passion and plenty of patience, they promise one thing: if it’s in your glass, it’s a wine they truly love. Sit outside on their deck to enjoy a glass of red, white, rose, or a specialty drink and pair it with some of their light bites–salads, crackers and dips, nuts, pretzels, and a selection of olives.
Also in Valparaiso, you’ll find culinary masterpieces created by Brian Davis, the chef at Trailyard by Shady Creek Winery. His offerings are thoughtfully designed to enhance and complement the winery’s extensive wine portfolio and beverage program. The menus feature fresh, locally sourced dishes, with a seasonal selection of shareables, small bites, and entrees. Chef Davis’ creations can also be found at their Shady Creek Winery location in Michigan City.
Then it’s on to Lafayette. Since graduating from Purdue University with a degree in food science in 2013, Nyssa Craton has been the winemaker at the Wildcat Creek Winery and just this year she has become the owner.
“I’m still learning,” she said. “It’s a reminder that I can’t expect to get everything perfect on the first try. Especially as a new business owner, there is always more to learn and improve on both at the winery and in life overall.”
She invites you to come to the winery for a tasting or to take a glass of your favorite among her offerings and stroll the beautiful property. Bring a picnic lunch if you’d like, or purchase cheese and crackers there. She also hosts special events with music and food trucks, and she has space for you to hold an event of your own.
While you’re in town, make time to stop in at Bruno’s. Swiss immigrant Bruno Itin and his wife founded the first pizza restaurant here in 1955. When Itin passed in 2006, Orlando, Bruno Jr. and
Tina continued their father’s legacy. Today Bruno’s granddaughters (Bruno Jr.’s daughters), Krista Rodriguez, Angela McDonald and Holly Beattie continue the tradition with pizzas, appetizers, pastas, and sandwiches.
Story Inn in scenic Brown County has a rich history of being settled in 1851 with a land grant to Dr. George Story. Once the largest settlement in the area, now the inn and restaurant make up the whole town. Today Chef Jesse Becraft creates gourmet food with produce grown on the premises inside a ramshackle former general store. On the lower level is the earthy Story Still Tavern.
You’ll find McCracken Curve Distillery near Montgomery in Daviess County. Timothy Kavanaugh immigrated from Ireland during the potato famine, and six generations later the family is still here, now creating spirits such as Ballyloughan Castle, a single-malt whiskey named for the family’s ancestral castle, and Homeplace Bourbon. While they don’t have a storefront, their products can be found in liquor stores throughout the state.
At Schnitzelbank Restaurant in Jasper, the Hanselman family pay homage to their German forbears with Old World cuisine that includes bratwurst, schnitzels, sauerbraten, and other favorites along with steaks and seafood. The entrees are served along with suggestions for the beer or wine that would best complement them.
Good Amish cooking is also available in Crawford County at the Schwartz Family Restaurant, founded by Joe and Edna Schwartz in 2009. Today daughter Meriam Schwartz is at the helm, making every dish from scratch, from peanut butter to fried chicken, meatloaf and frog legs. The all-you-can-eat meal is served cafeteria-style, but remember to save room for dessert. The produce from which they make some of their pies is grown on their family farm.
Dining and Cooking