Summer is starting to draw to a close, and so too are the season’s viral food trends. Pineapple buns, Dubai chocolate and gelato may have defined the year thus far, but it appears that something a little more homestyle is bubbling away for the autumn.
It’s all about pasta, apparently. Over the span of a few months, a number of new Italian restaurants – many of them jazz-handing about their house-made pasta – have opened in Hong Kong.
I’m convinced that this trend is an economic indicator. In the face of a rising cost of living (from the consumer side) and the increased challenges of surviving (from the restaurant side), the enduring appeal of simple Italian cuisine and, in particular, wholesome plates of pasta seems to tackle issues on both sides.
Pasta is familiar, relatable and an infinite canvas for creativity, but also performs well among traditionalists.
The bone marrow macaroni at new Hong Kong pasta and wine bar Twist was inspired by the flavours of Kau Kee’s curry beef brisket noodles. Photo: Twist
It remains an affordable luxury for most, with quick upgrades readily available: at a recent visit to La Taverna, Hong Kong’s oldest Italian restaurant, top billing on the pasta courses was “spaghetti alla milonario” (millionaire’s spaghetti), a fancy little mishmash of smoked salmon, vodka, rainbow trout roe and – of course – gold leaf. At HK$228 (US$29), it’s not even the most expensive item on the menu.
Even award-winning chefs are keeping things far simpler now. Veteran chef Roland Schuller, who was previously at the two-Michelin-star Octavium, recently opened La Volta, an affordable pasta restaurant in Causeway Bay.
Dining and Cooking