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With its heritage-listed sandstone cottage building, melt-in-your-mouth duck dish, and connection to local farmers, Ennui in Haymarket has stood out from Sydney’s food scene.
Three hospitality friends, Thomas Bromwich, Peter Chan and Samuel Woods, originally envisioned Ennui as an intimate bar. It’s now a two-storey restaurant with space to seat 100 guests and just celebrated its first birthday.
Ennui
“Bringing Ennui to life was no small task,” says director and cook Samuel Woods.
“Three years of heritage approvals, landlord negotiations, and months of construction tested our patience and resolve. Yet the effort has been worth it.”
Located on the corner of Pitt and Hay Streets, opposite the Capitol Theatre, Ennui shares its interpretation of French cuisine in one of Sydney’s most historic settings.
In partnership with the business solution experts at Square, we spoke with Samuel to learn more about how they created a hospitality business that stands out from the crowd.
From little things
Samuel shares that Ennui began with a simple idea.
“[We imagined] a small wine bar with food that spoke to our cultural backgrounds and connections with local farmers,” Samuel tells Concrete Playground. “But when we were introduced to the Manse building, we knew this was something bigger.”
The cottage was built in 1846 and is one of the few buildings of its kind still standing in Sydney. Its historic, sandstone outer layer means the modern yet warm interiors stand out even more.
Ennui
Keep it simple
For Samuel, Peter and Thomas, their guiding principle to growing into one of Sydney’s most popular new restaurants is simple: the guest comes first.
“We want people to feel looked after, and we’re always willing to be flexible in how we offer our service to make sure everyone feels welcome. That belief has shaped everything we do at Ennui.”
Restaurants and brands often focus on viral ‘must-try’ tactics to stand out in a crowded, algorithm-driven market. However, Samuel believes that the chase for uniqueness can undermine core values.
Ennui
“For us, consistency is more important than chasing uniqueness. Guests should feel confident that the dish they saw online, or the one a friend recommended, will arrive at the table exactly as expected.”
“We want people to come back weeks later and relive the same great experience. That dependability is what builds trust and ultimately, lasting relationships with our guests,” Samuel shares.
Signature dishes
One tenet of Ennui’s success was knowing they wanted a dish that defined the restaurant. For Samuel, Thomas and Peter, this was always duck.
Focusing on a signature dish (done exquisitely) has helped the restaurant stand out from other French-inspired restaurants across the city.
Ennui
“I still remember dining at Monopole in Potts Point about ten years ago. The duck was unforgettable, and it stayed with me. From those early plans on paper to opening night, the idea of serving our own duck has been at the heart of the restaurant.”
Samuel credits this and word-of-mouth recommendations with helping to grow Ennui more than intentional marketing, proving that if you create an experience that people want to keep coming back to, they will.
“It is one of the most important things in hospitality, to be hospitable.”
Learning and growing
If you’re new to the hospitality business, Samuel doesn’t sugarcoat it — you’re going to feel the heat. However, having a team of people in your corner can help to keep the dream alive.
“We have been very lucky to have such a talented team of people around us, always pushing for new ways to drive business.”
He also credits Square’s payment system as making the business side of the restaurant run more smoothly.
“It’s one less thing to worry about because I’ve got Square by my side.”
Samuel shares that muddling through and (sometimes) missing the mark can ultimately lead to business satisfaction.”Some things have worked really well, and sometimes you try, but you miss the mark. Either way, we’re happy with where we are now.”
From a history-rich building to collaboration and growth, it’s clear that Ennui stands out from the Sydney food scene and keeps customers coming back for more.
“What began as a dream between three friends who had worked together for years has grown into a restaurant that feels like home.”
Square empowers local businesses to thrive by making it easier to run, manage, and grow their operations. Find out how Square can help your business grow.
Lead image: Ennui
Dining and Cooking