There are real differences between skinny and fat asparagus spears, aside from appearance, and it’s worth attending to them. With either, you must first break off the woody bottoms (magically, they snap off in pretty much the right place every time), a quick but necessary chore. But it is always worth peeling thick asparagus, from stem to the bottom of the flower bud. The best way to do this is with a vegetable peeler. Lay each spear on a flat surface and give it a few quick strokes.

The difference between peeled and unpeeled thick spears is substantial. When they are peeled, they can be cooked for considerably less time, leaving them bright green and perfectly crisp-tender, rather than a soggy mess. They’re done when you can easily insert a skewer or a thin-bladed knife into the thickest part of the stalk. (If you don’t peel them, the soggy mess is just about the only way to get the skin tender.)

Ingredients

  • 1 pound thick asparagus, trimmed and peeled
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 2 egg yolks, preferably organic
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
  • Extra virgin olive oil as necessary

    4 servings

    Preparation

    1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook asparagus just until bright green but tender, up to 4 or 5 minutes for thicker spears. Drain and immediately rinse with cold water (or, better still, plunge into ice water). Drain again and set aside. (You can wrap asparagus and refrigerate for up to a day at this point. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
    2. Whisk together mustard, egg yolks, soy sauce, lemon juice and just enough olive oil (start with a tablespoon) to make a smooth dressing. Toss with asparagus and serve.

    15 minutes

    Dining and Cooking